The battery wires in the harness are 10 or 12. Definitely needs 10 that far.

 

Sniper stuff is on hold now, turbo went bad, it has a rubbing noise like the impeller is hitting the housing and theres oil everywhere, thinking about removing the turbo to get the sniper running correctly and test drive the car to make sure my OD and lock up function after trans rebuild. Everything looked good after running the 10ga wires, then the sniper screen went yellow on the volt meter and showed no charge, a few minutes later I heard the impeller whining pretty good and oil was on the ground.

 

doh!

 

It looks like the Snipers issues may be resolved, I changed the alternator and now it seems to be running normally, now to order a turbo and hopefully button this thing up.

 

I got everything running, but the sniper was setup to run NA, I'm going to be installing a new turbo so can I just rerun the wizard and reprogram the parameters for the turbo, and what AFR should the target be set to, I'm thinking 11.5 to 1?

 

Have you driven anywhere with the sniper or just idle time? I thought you had turbo on it already.

 

You can use the wizard but it will delete anything the Sniper has learned to date. A better choice is to use the Holley software on a laptop to go in and change just the AFR which should mean most of the other data stays intact. 11.5 is what I use for my AFR under boost with no offsets.

 

I wish I had a lap top to work off of, but I just have a desk top until I am able to get my lap top repaired, the sniper has had to relearn a few times since I had a battery draw that killed the battery a few times, so I don't think the relearning is going to be a big deal, I'll just need to drive it around a bit after I get finished up on a few other things and reinstall the turbo, I also plan on getting it tuned by a pro after everything is running good and the kinks are worked out.

 

I got to take the car out for the first time today to a local car show, put maybe 30- miles or so on it, it ran pretty good, no turbo yet. I did have an issue with the secondaries sticking open, I added an extra return spring on the secondary arm and that seems to have solved the problem, I saw a video where a guy said that you need to add an extra winding to the stock spring to fix the issue but if my return spring works I'll leave it be for now and work on other more important things, over all everything was good and it was nice to be able to drive the car again.

 

I'm about to wrap up moving my turbo from remote to in the engine bay, I have to reprogram my snipers parameters basically from new since it hasn't had any power for a while, my question is what afr would be best to set it to, I was thinking idle at 15.5 to 1 cruise at 13.5 and WOT at 11.5, that sound about right?

 

14.0 idle might be able to get it stable at 14.7 . 15.5 will probably leave you with surge issues.
14.7 cruise
11.5 wot

Do they really loose the tune without power.? Ive not heard of this.
If you saved a known good tune to the mem stick you can just reload it.

 

The last time it lost power for a few days it lost memory, I don’t have a saved tune. The learning feature may have saved something but I’m not sure how that works, this is my first FI setup, I usually run carbs.

 

It happens, you had a tune before you can do it again. You should be able to save the tune on the SD card in the hand held. If you have a laptop even better. I try to save tunes on my laptop every once and a while I will email one to my self so it's in the cloud.

 

Maybe you know this, but pull the sd card, and copy it to your desktop. From there you can just save it, or make any changes you want, and load the new tune from the handheld.

 

I never saved anything, I only had about 30-40 miles on the sniper before I took apart the turbo system to change it around. I'm close to getting it running again so I'll try to save the tune after some driving next time, I didn't even think about the SD card, I was thinking it need to hook to a lap top to save data.

 

For those running a sniper do you let the unit control your fans or do you control it another way? I'm thinking about just using a manual switch and not let the sniper control the fan.

 

I suggest letting it do it.
Ive seen many peeps in my time forget to turn the fans on and overheat. Only takes once.

My self on my non efi cars, I have temp sensors to control fans and a master switch to disable them when im wrenching and need the power on in the car. But otherwise its always on. Because at some point, I will space out and forget.

 

I let the Terminator in my car control the fan, best part is it remembers to run the fan when the AC is on. It doesn't take long at all to over pressure the system with the fan off. Popped a hose one time, the others it just vented out the pressure relief. My cars operator is not to be trusted.

 

I have the Contour dual fan unit. I don't let the Sniper control the fans. The first fan is controlled by a standalone fan controller and the 2nd fan is controlled by a switch on the dash. I prefer it this way because when I am at the drag strip if I want to cool the car down after a run I can use the 2nd fan with the manual switch.

 

I have a DC Control controlling the fan speed by temperature, I also have a 75 amp Bosch relay wired in parallel and controlled by my engine management system and with a manual switch. The DC control has primary control @ 185°, if that controller fails and the temp gets to 210° the ECU turns the fan on full speed as a backup. I can also turn the fan on with the switch at any time.