History on the jeep is long, so I will sum up.
In 1955 my grandad built this jeep from a military surplus frame, body, springs and axles. It started life with a Ford straight 6 and FMX he adapted to surplus dana 18 with a homemade adapter kit.

Sometime in the 70s the straight 6 blew up and was replaced with a 289, at the same time an intermediate front clip was put on it to give more room for the engine. Further on down the road that 289 wore out and was replaced with a 351w.

The jeep lived most of its life in Moab, it was doing easter jeep runs before it was a thing, so it's kind of a cool relic. Lot's of family history. Unknown miles, at least 3 engines worth #ad
It has been run hard it's whole life, it was never a mall crawler. In 2010 after I left the service it was handed down to me. Looked roughly like this:


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I made it run and drive, made the brakes work and rocked the beat old paint for a few years. It was pretty clear to me that the braking was inadequate and parts for the drums were hard to find. I cobbled together a 4 wheel disk system with GM calipers and a corvette MC.

Eventually I got real tired of having no second gear in the FMX so I did a home rebuild job on it, unfortunately I failed at something and the trans only lasted a few hundred miles. I weighed my options and decided to have Jay at Broader performance build a C4 for it with an advanced adapters kit for the dana 18.

The engine used oil, smoked, leaked, all the stuff you expect from a mostly original 60's era ford small block. I hunted around and replaced the worn out engine with a slightly less worn out roller 351w from a 95ish bronco. Threw on some aluminum heads and a hotter cam. For fuel I adapted mustang EFI to it with an A9L computer, it ran pretty well, well enough to make the 10 spline axles in the stock dana 44 unreliable. I ended up sourcing an intermediate 30 spline dana 44, open knuckle dana 30 and d20 transfer case. This made a reasonably reliable trail jeep, that could get me around in the winter time when my mustang could not.

By 2016 I was sick of the beat paint and shattered fiberglass front clip. I didn't have the know how to mend the fiberglass, and was having a rough time finding decent intermediate fenders for it (that I could afford) so I ordered a BTF fender kit and did a body resto + paint.
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It was just a home brew resto job. I lacked the skills necessary to do things really well, but had some tenacity and got the matte clearcoat to lay down nicely after a few tries. Nothing about it was mint, perfect etc, but that made it more usable. Over the next few years I put around 7000 miles on it and really enjoyed it.

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Around 2018 I decided to complete a resto on a 1966 falcon that my aunt had started and run out of steam on. Unfortunately this meant leaving the jeep in Moab so I would have space to work on the car. As it tends to do, life got in the way. The restoration on the falcon took 3 years, during which I would end up moving to a house with a bigger garage, which made the resto easier but also became a massive distraction. In late 2021 I finished the falcon, it was totally worth the sacrifice. Seeing an old lady smile and knowing she is driving the wheels off of it makes all the sweat and effort worth it.

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Nothing is worse for a vehicle than letting it sit. After bringing the jeep home it had all the problems you expected, and unfortunately my standards had gone up some for what a vehicle really needed to be. I made it run and drive again, it had low oil pressure at idle and had some real odd handling characteristics. One day I was out messing around with it and hit valve float at about 4500 RPM, blew the header gaskets out on both flanges and decided it was time to do something with it.

It started as just replacing valve springs and a minor port job, but then i figured "since I have it apart anyway" I may as well do a full rebuild. It turned out the block only had .002" of bore wear and all of the bearings and journals were worn but in good shape. So it got a hone, fresh rings with a little extra gap, bearings, new paint and reassembly. I also decided to ditch the sidepipes, tired of the loud.
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While I had the engine out I figured I better do an inspection on the frame... turned out it was riddled with cracks. No wonder it handled weird and responded to bumps in such a violent manner, it was falling apart. No surprise really, it had been lengthened, beaten, overpowered and overweight its entire life. The frame was done.

I planned to build a frame from rec tube, as you do. One day I was browsing the local classifieds and found a YJ frame, tub, springs and axles for $300... I figured I could make that work and it was going to cost less than steel, so on a trailer it went and home it came.

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I sold the rear axle, front spindles and steering gear, windshield frame and broke even on it. Hope to get the tub sold in the next few days and will repurpose the roll cage for my jeep (CJ5 kinda sketchy).

Anyone who has ever looked at a YJ frame knows they are wide. Like... almost as wide as an early CJ's axles at the rear. I was kind of looking for an excuse to go bigger on the axles anyway, the little narrow track jeep axles won't hold up to the power I am planning for very long, and I am tired of being shy with it when I am on the rocks. So I found a 31 spline 9", HP 44 and bronco front 44 on the local listings for another $300.
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I cut up the high pinion to flip the offset and accept the bronco long side inner axle and reused the f150 short inner axle. The bronco axle shafts are weak, but I can get aftermarket units that use the larger U joints later on when the budget is available. I will put the locker from the old rear 44 into this front 44 and do something about the open dif in the 9" when I am ready to reassemble.
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On the late 70's f150s ford used the same length axle shaft on both sides, and offset the housing by 4" to make up for it. So I ordered one axle shaft 4" shorter than stock and will cut 4" out of the long side of the 9". That will give me a 61" rear and a 62" front. They will make the tires a little "stick-outy" but I have some ideas on how to make that look fine.

Next on the agenda is shortening the YJ frame to the CJ tub dimensions. Unfortunately I found quite a bit of rust through i didn't catch when I did the repaint:
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This jeep has a pair of 12.5 gallon fuel tanks combined with a rear bumper, rear plate that doubles as a spare tire carrier, tow hitch and corner armor all built into one. It was something my grandfather built somewhere along the line. It is unique for sure. Unfortunately he welded it directly to the rear frame crossmember. Over time mud collected between the frame and the body panel/tire carrier and so did water. When I separated the tub from the frame things started to fall apart. I probably won't repair this right away. It sucks because for the most part the paint on this is still pretty good, and matching matte clearcoat is well beyond my skill level.

 

I decided yesterday that the fuel tanks/rear end needed to come off. I was concerned about the amount of rust that was behind them. I was content with leaving things alone until I realized the tanks were going to interfere with the frame to the point where I would need a 4" body lift. #ad


What I found under was more or less what was expected... bad! Lots of rust/rust through. I have considered modifying the tanks to make them fit around the frame rails, there is some other stuff that could be done with them at the same time, in tank pump/level senders could be nice.

I am apprehensive about cutting and modifying them, there is still some fuel smell and I don't feel like dealing with that flavor of fuck up. The other frame came with fuel tank/lines etc so I figure I have something to make it run and drive. In the meantime I am just going to ignore this problem and work on other stuff that needs to happen.

Reality is this thing probably needs a new tub, but I don't want to. Trying to make this whole thing happen on a budget. I think I can repair it with a sheet of 18ga and some of the parts from the other jeep body.

 

Although I have limited experience shooting liquid matte clears, not sure what your reluctance is using them.
I have used matte powder clears for years with excellent results. The matte clear I used would dull the glossiest of paints into a uniform matte and I found it very forgiving and easy to use. A lot of people seem to think that matte clears will not clean up like a gloss one but they are just as slippery and clean up very nice.
I picked up a complete factory 4.10 geared Dana 44 pumpkin for my truck, came out of an 86 f150 351 ho.
Need to go through it before install but looked a lot easier than just changing gears.
When I took that short hobby welding course, I found out they offer another course for auto body and I think I will take it next summer. I really enjoyed that class but need a lot of practice. I will keep my eyes out for anything you can use on your budget build. I like the fact that it was your grandfathers. I am the only one in my family who is a car nut, nothing was ever worthwhile that anyone in my family owned for restoration.
Except my junk, lol…

 

It seems like the powdercoat might be a little different from the urethane clear. In the clearcoats they use a solid (something "like" corn starch) that floats to the surface while the clear is flashing and it breaks up the surface gloss. Because of this even a change in temp or humidity can change the sheen enough to be noticable. If you look at this paint job in person you can tell a difference in gloss between the tub and the hood. They were both painted on the same day, at the same time, from the same mix pot. The difference was in how heavy I laid the clear coat.

If I were a pro it would be different I am sure, but I do about one car a year.

The other trouble with the flat/matte finishes is there is zero forgiveness, if you get a run you are repainting the panel because you can't polish the matte clear out. Same deal with scratches, even a small scratch is forever. It's too much maintenance for a jeep. I do love the look of it though, if I were building something more hot rod a different color in matte could really pop and stand out.

I am not that heart broken about it. I was really restricting myself because I didn't want to repaint, now that I have taken away that constraint I feel like I can do a much better job.

 

I didn’t even consider the humidity. I did have issues with a ceramic clear that I used on top of polished wheels, humidity was the issue. When the clear was curing it sucked the moisture from the air and clouded the finish. Wheels were for an expensive BMW, thankfully the guy understood.

 

I was having some analysis paralysis and needed a day to clear my head. I knew I was going to need shrinker/stretcher for this project, so I made an ergonomics sketch and dug through the scrap pile. Came up with this:

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It was a good quick project and served to remind me that sometimes you just have to think less and do more. The next day I got started on the heavy fabrication portion of the jeep.

I came up with needing to take 8" out of the frame. 10" for the difference in tub (this has intermediate length front clip), -2" for the length of the additions for the winch on the front.

Cut it, fit it up and tig welded.
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Made a plasma template for some asymetrical fish plates and zapped out a set of them
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Ground the frame flat, added the fish plates and welded the factory front spring perches back into the correct location.

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That let me throw the body on and set the engine and trans location.
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Which means I need axles...
I took the HP d44 down to my brothers place last weekend. He has a small lathe we used to make a sleeve for the long side, and cut the long side tube.
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I went ahead and beveled the tube and blasted it on. I heated up the C's in the oven, and dropped them on at 6° caster plus .3° of cross caster to help with road crown. That is measured off of the differential being perfectly flat.
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I had a little trouble with weld cracking (different metals) initially, even using 309lsi rod. I started adding more filler than normal at the beginning and end of the bead and it solved that. After a couple hours of welding an inch at a time, letting cool, alternating sides, an inch, root and cover, I had a completed front 44 housing. Not having a water cooling system on my torch sucks... I am not normally welding at 200A though.

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I will wire wheel it and paint everything. Then I need to replace ball joints and get some brake stuff going.

Should get the 9" done and in place today. Hopefully I can get the engine out, finish welding all the mounts and get some paint on everything. Maybe get both the axles into initial position. That will give me an idea if I am going to require driveshafts or if I can reuse what I have.

 

It's been a while since I posted updates, I have a small one. Unfortunately summer trips, unexpected vet bills and various other things have cut into the budget, but it is still moving. I reassessed the goals a bit, I am going to shoot for having it done next memorial day.


The front axle fought me at every turn, I decided the bearings and seals were in need of replacement, of course I went through 2 sets of inner axle seals before I ordered the right ones... nothing but a delay. Replaced all the ball joints, and U joints, all moving parts replaced. Fortunately my re-tubing measurements turned out to be right and everything slid together properly.


I pulled the locker out of the dana 44 that used to be in the rear and slammed it in the front. Ford trac-lock rear and locker in the front ought to work really well everywhere except the snow (I will just unlock one of the front hubs!).


I ordered the "correct" spicer studs to attach the spindle to the knuckle, they turned out to be the wrong diameter, so I found some wheel studs locally, they turned out to be the wrong length. #ad


So I ordered some that were 1/4" longer and was finally able to attach the spindles properly, with full thread engagement on the lock nuts.



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My brother came over one day and handed me a box, evidently a long time ago my other brother gave him a set of warn premium hubs for his 79 f150, he already had some lesser warn hubs on it so they never got put on his truck, and now he is about to put 1 ton axles on his and doesn't need them. So I rebuilt them, and surprise of surprises the application specific allen head bolts they sent with the rebuild kits were the wrong ones! assembled everything except the brake system and threw a light coat of paint on to keep the flash rust at bay while I was out of town for most of late July/august.


I ordered a "matching" pair of calipers for it from Napa, I was going to disassemble them and Cerakote just to keep them rust free, low and behold one of them was nice, easy bare metal and the other was zinc coated?? So I emailed Cerakote and they said I need to sandblast to remove the zinc. I think I will return the coated one and try again. I am going to do the headers, calipers and a handful of other parts all at once. #ad



After I got home from my trip I decided to work the axle in place, and see how the clearances would work out. Dana 30 vs 44:

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Clearance to oil pan isn't great, but it's not as bad as I expected.


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The springs that are under it are some high arched 4 leaf pack, I think they are probably old, ruffcountry springs, I didn't trust them to ride well or perform the way I want off road so I found some RE1455's on amazon for a decent price and ordered them (part of the financial delay, i really didn't want to make driveshafts twice).


I don't really need 4.5" of lift but with the larger diameter axle tubes, rear spare tire mount, heavy winch and bumper they might only net me 2.5" by the time they settle which should be about perfect for Moab and Colorado mountain trips. I think the front driveshaft will be OK as well, once I get the new springs in I will finalize position on everything and start looking at clearances.


The problem is: when you put a HP44 on passenger drop the yoke wants to consume the same point in space as the oil pan during compression. It isn't as bad as it looks, and the engine is mocked up low in the frame rails. Even with that if I use the factory YJ bump stops I still clear. I want to cut the bump stops down by an inch+ though for more compression so I will look at a touch of oil pan modification, I want to baffle it anyway.


Once the new springs are in I will figure out exact spring perch locations, grind off the paint and get them welded in, repaint and the front will be done with it, it feels like I have been stuck on the front axle for 3 of the 4 months I have had this apart.


The entire forward progression of mechanical relies on getting the front axle in place, so even though I have some spare time right now I can't do anything, other than clean the garage... of course a single spring showed up yesterday (tease).


Hopefully the rest of the springs and bushings arrive today, my brother will be over this weekend, we are going to get all of the mechanical geometry figured out and hopefully lock the engine and transfer case mounts in their final place. Then I will get weight on it and measure for driveshafts.


Rear is mocked in place, fits good.


Hopefully after this weekend I can start moving on to making it move under its own power, then on to body work. I need to get it out of the garage, I owe a friend an engine swap on one of his cars and I want it out of my driveway.

 

New springs are in. These ones actually flex. Front passenger side has +2.4° camber though. That's my next priority, #ad

 

Do you have some kind of diy alignment deal going on?

 

I have a Longacre kit with digital caster/camber.

I spent a bunch of time measuring the axle yesterday, the tubes are true, and the machined bosses for the steering linkage are perfectly flat and parallel (within .05°), tubes are straight and in good alignment, so it turns out not to be an issue with the way the housing or knuckles are welded.

Evidently there are other problems, first this: #ad


I was evidently not the first person into these spindles, last person kicked the shit out of them and I only made it worse getting them apart. I hit them with a flap wheel and knocked down all the high spots and cleaned off the rust. Did this on both sides. That brought both sides to +1.3°, I looked at the spec for the truck the axle came off of and the spec is +1.0. With weight off the axle the number jumps up to 1.5°. My assumption is the C's are just designed for a much heavier vehicle. If I had another ton over the nose it would likely bring it in spec.

So, I am on the hunt for a set of 1-1.5° d44 knuckle shims, seems like they are no longer made. 1.3° would be fine for off road, but it is going to be harder on tires than I really want. I would prefer between +0.25 and -0.25.

 

Not sure if these are the ones you are looking for?
https://torqueking.com/product/4939...m-steering-knuckle-shim-kit-dana-25-44-axles/

i will have to look into the alignment deal, need something to get it close.

 

Not quite, those are for a different axle type. The ones for this axle are 6 bolt round. IHparts sells some adjustable ones and they may be the right answer.

On the Longacre kit, the initial cost is a little high, and it doesn't make sense if you are going to do an alignment every few years and be happy. It also isn't going to get you the same quality alignment as a 6 figure hunter machine will (if the tech knows what they are doing and cares enough to set it up)... but it will get you plenty close enough to drive well and keep tire wear down. Also gives you the opportunity to set up for track or autocross days.

When I owned my Raptor I couldn't find a shop that would actually warranty an alignment for a Raptor, and it needed done 2-3 times a year with the routine high speed off road stuff I was doing, so at $125 a pop for alignments it made sense for me. I also couldn't find a shop who would properly set up the caster/camber plates on my Mustang, now I can do it myself. With my Ranger being custom front and rear axles I don't trust a shop to deal with it properly. On vehicles like this one it is a lot better than setting up axles with a divining rod and plumb bob.

 

I managed to finish the functional resto of the "cheap" slip roll I got, which I mostly did for the sake of saving the tool. The paint turned out to be sort of an odd color, it is a shade or two lighter than what was on this. I am not sure I like it that much, but it is definitely "period" for the tool.#ad


With that available I started building some of the sheet metal, All I had to work off of in the rear is that panel sitting below the jeep and what was left of the upper corners, so it probably isn't resto-accurate. But it doesn't need to be, it will be getting various details to make it look a little like the old dual tank setup. I am deliberating changing up the power train, so I need to make a decision on that before I can do the floors. Nice to see the Jeep Looking a little more complete when I walk in, even if it is just in mock up.#ad


Of course, as soon as I start making progress on this mess again I start to hear funny noises from the clutch area of my Mustang, so I have this put back in the corner to rebuild the fire victim tr6060 that has been sitting in the garage for the last 4 years. It turns out gt500 tr6060/t56 parts aren't that easy to find, and I have to get parts from multiple vendors so I am stuck waiting on shipping. Fortunately I have everything for the swap, including a twin disk clutch and MGW shifter just sitting on a shelf.

I think the next step for this is to find a place for all the parts inside and brace the body so I can start cutting more out of it. Anyone with sense would just replace the tub, but I would rather do something custom and this thing has such simple lines it makes it a perfect place to practice sheet metal work.

I want to push the wheel tubs out 5", that will give me a bunch more leg room and the extra width of the axles allows it. That may cause me to raise the rear floor pan an inch to clear the frame, the stock tub sits between the rails, and I don't want a body lift, I may end up channeling the entire body to get it a little lower, and opening the wheel cutouts up a bit. In the end I would have to build, or rebuild a lot of "off the shelf" parts. So it sort of makes sense to build the panels where I am able.

 

Things change. I wanted overdrive and Factory EFI. The Jeep intellectuals will tell you it's impossible to put an overdrive automatic in a CJ5... They also say a modular "isn't a good engine for a jeep" fuck 'em. Math says a 6r80 on a coyote with the adapters is 3/4" longer than a C4 trans with adapter and SBF with EFI accessories. So I shopped car-part and found a 90,000 mile coyote for $2300, and pulled the trans and adapter out of the corner of the garage.

The math is right, this all fits within stock dimensions. I have the front axle pushed forward an inch and a half, but all that does is gets me a little more pan clearance. I could achieve the same thing by modifying the pan.

I don't even care much about the engine at this point, that is a side effect of the transmission. I go from a 2.46:1 first to a 4.17 first, and from a final drive of 1.0 and convertor slip to a lock up convertor with .67 final drive.

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The engine sits a little far forward from the firewall, but I am going to rebuild the firewall anyway. And I don't mind having extra access to the trans and back side of the engine. I can also kick the body forward an inch to get a little more clearance on the fan.

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21" of driveshaft length, and a standard 1410 or high angle 1350 double cardan will cover the angles at full droop. There is 9" between the front of the pan and the high pinion 44. I will have to trim the pan at the back to get full driveshaft clearance.

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The coyote is wide, but I will be lengthening a set of 1955 fenders to intermediate length (4" longer), so I can modify the inner fenders to fit. Or I can just reuse the ugly tube fenders I have.


I really like the Gen 2 coyote in my truck, it should be sporty in this light little vehicle. I will probably keep the truck manifold and cams in this one, and use a stock truck PCM.

I need to sell my 351w stuff, including the typhoon EFI intake to fund the rest of the build, but it is on track to be great. And I have a bunch of sheet metal to deal with while getting rid of that stockpile.

 

I also needed a longer brake to make the floorpans on this. The little harbor freight one was not doing it. So I am building one with 60" capacity for the back of my welding table. #ad