Wow. Yea been awhile. Last posts I saw was you were selling it.

 

So what was causing the crank sensors to burn out?

 

turbo housing directly above the cam sensor. maybe 3in max and its stuck with no airflow either. so turbos get it hot and it starts to stick internally. removed the hood and cooled down between rounds, put heat sleeve over sensor, 2x heat shielding and never had the issue again.

 

the 2 heat shields a d just how close the turbo is to the senskr. what you cant see is there is a hole in the motkr plate for the sensor bolt. the turbo housing is right there bear sending heat right in there. which is what the shields are for. as well as heat tape over the hole a few layers worth. been on the same cam sensor now a few months no issues with it anymore.

#ad


#ad

 

now im messing with what i believed was spark blow out. as i add boost it wont rev as far rpm wise, but runs about the same. people have said no.issues with stock g3 coils at 8k rpms and 30spi. but i cant get over 6500 abouve 15psi. or it spudders and pops out the exhaust flames at night. had somebody tell me it isnt spark blow out, but wants me to pay the. to tell me what it is. thats just lovely. wondering a fouled plug would cause this same log in the rpms? as ive got 1 thats clearly fouled on dr side. maybe a bad injector?

#ad


#ad

 

Get those iridium plugs out and put some copper receded tip plugs in there and your issue will go away.

 

i cant find a copper in the same heat range or i would. currently ngk-6510s. have a leaky injector and pulled them to get cleaned and flowed. hope it aint them. i aint got 3k to buy a new better set right now. as i want to switch to m1 some day soon, just not today. lol

#ad

 

injectors full of shit that should never have gotten to them. im guessing my fuel filters are completely worthless at this point. gonna add a few ground wires and see if it helps with ignition issues when power is turned up.

#ad


#ad

 

What Injectors do you have?
I've heard horror stories about some so I'm looking for real world info from what people are running.

ks

 

I've had zero issues with my Bosch 210s.

 

i run bosch 230s i bought probably 8yrs ago or so. they are very short physically and nobody who makes a cheap pos china copy injector cant make these style yet. 3yrs on cheap pump e85 is just to long to go without cleaning them. should be done every year i feel after seeing this. as my car started to run like trash idling etc..lately. hoping this and the new plugs will fix the higher rpm with more boost problems. as well as adding another ground on thr dr side head.

 

I hear/read so many opposing stories on the Bosch 210's sitting with E85 in the line it's crazy. Some swear there is absolutely no issue with them sitting with E85 in the line for several months at a time with no issues while some can't get more than a few weeks w/o them going bad. The dyno operator that tunes all the high HP cars around here (2000hp) says the longer body 210's are junk and he can't get them to live for a few months but has had zero issues after switching all his customers to the shorter body styles. Even reading posts on the forums you hear great/bad things about them but one question is whether the "bad" ones are real/fake. The people I know buy them from the big name sellers so those injectors should not be fakes...

I have 160's but will probably keep them when I switch to the 210's next spring. I've had the 160's for about 4 years now and the car sits for 3-6 months with E85 and these have never had a single issue so I hope the 210's perform this well.

I pulled the data sheet from Bosch on the 210's and the data sheet specs they are good for E85 but I don't know the material of the inner workings of them.. Anyway, just food for thought.

ks

 

I have the short bosh 210s and run E85 with zero issues. I run a 100 micron pre and 10 micron post filters too.

 

I wonder if the people having trouble with their injectors and E85 are running aluminum cells or lines, that could cause early failure.

 

I have aluminum lines with my 160's and no issues over several years now and they still look perfectly clean inside. I've read about people having concerns about it but seems the majority have never seen the aluminum corrode.

ks

 

Likewise, I've got an aluminum cell in two of my turbo projects and have run E85 without any issues. The one in my '66 Plymouth is even rated as Ethanol safe from the manufacturer despite being aluminum.

 

i have the really light weight braided lines and aluminum fuel cell. not seeing corrosion in the tank. only trash in the injectors that makes me question if my filters are worthless or not at this point.

 

so the tall standard length bosch are mostly copied and are pos more than not. the short housings are not made by anyone else but bosch. so they are not able to copy them just yet. till they can get a mold for them. which i dont see happening anytime soon. holley calls them 230s even though they are labelled as 210s. jfyi.

 

That may explain why I couldn't find a data sheet on Bosch's website.
For that matter I can't find a true data sheet on the shorter ones but they do list them and nowhere on their website does it mention different body styles available:

https://www.boschautoparts.com/p/pfi-port-fuel-injection-0280158821-

If someone can find an actual Bosch Data Sheet for their 210's post a link, I'd like to see it.

I found one for their EV14 injectors:
https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/co...Data sheet_67797771_Injection_Valve_EV_14.pdf



thnx
ks

 

What is the filter media? E will deteriorate paper filters.