Thanks for the pic tbird

Mine is oriented so the in / out fittings are horizontal

I wonder if that was causing it to drip

I'm hoping to run it some after work

 

Ive always used the 40-527.
524 and 527 both have buna seals. 527 is continuous duty.

Sorry, I dont know what the cap does. Ive really had zero issue with these on 3 different cars.

These also have internal check valves to they wont allow drain back.

 

Thank you tbird

I called Tilton tech support.

Nice enough guy but he wasn't sure why it would leak from there.

He suggested a thin bead of silicon around that rubber cap/seal.

He also said that it shouldn't leak. They are designed to sit at the lowest part of a transmission / cooler system.

I'm thinking the internal check valve might be bad from sitting so long. It's been on a shelf for 4 ++ years.

I do have a rebuild kit. If it keeps leaking, I'll throw that in.

 

Got 'er done enough to drive.

The Tilton doesn't leak any more (yay) but I have a slight weep of oil by the feed line at the block

I've played around with the pwm for the scavenge pump and found a setting that seems to work . It's fast enough at idle that oil doesn't back up into the turbine, but slow enough that it doesn't sound like an old Holley Blue pump.

I also moved the wg boost reference from the compressor side to the intake bc it was opening the wg waaaaay too soon

 

A pic of the charge tube
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It's 2-1/4 all the way up to the back of the engine, then transitions to 3" at the BOV adapter(I know I know...a big jump there)

I was rushed so I didn't get any pics of the whole charge tube, but it goes above the cross member on the drivers side and sits between the transmission and the tunnel, turns 45° upward to the rear of the engine almost dead center to the intake. Then it turns 90° into the carb hat

 

It's supposed to rain here all week, right through Saturday .... possibly through Sunday, which ruins my plans to go up to New England Dragway for a couple passes before they close for the season. Damn It !!

I plan to hook up the intercooler this week. Even if I can't get to the track, I want to see lower IAT's.

Also looking for any suggestions on timing retard under boost. I know the best way to figure that out is on a dyno but any suggestions are appreciated.

So far I've reduced total timing (from the Paxton days) from 34 down to 32. Instead of removing 1 degree per pound of boost I'm taking out 2. Timing is all in by 2500, but I might bump that to 3000.

For fuel I've richened up considerably from 12.0 under boost to 11.5. I know the 12.0 seems lean, but the observed afr on my Zeitronix gauges (and the one time I went to a dyno last year) showed richer by .5 than the MSD target afr was, so at the target 11.5 I expect to see 11.0. Pig rich, but safe.

 

Have you done a free air calibration on your O2 sensor? Just because it was off by x amount then doesn't mean it will be off the same amount now. If you could get to the track you can tune spark via MPH. You can also do it by plug reads, but you have to be able to make full throttle runs then shut down immediately. Plug reads would help figure out the AFR as well.

 

Thanks B E N

I never thought of calibrating the o2 sensor

I'll get a couple sets of plugs too....they're cheap enough.

 

Drove it some this past Thursday without the ic. Ran decent. Was seeing around 100 - 110 for IAT's cruising around with an occasional light romp on the go pedal. The wg has a 4lb spring. I saw 5 to 5-1/2 lb on the gauge. The outside temp was in the high 50's.

Then got to put more miles on it yesterday, mostly bc the day at New England Dragway was cancelled due to weather.

So I put in new plugs (one heat range colder than stock), connected the intercooler, and changed the oil.

I wasn't sure I'd like the routing of the charge tube, but I managed to have less total number of degrees (450) of bends in this system compared to the Paxton (540).

IAT's dropped to mid 70's cruising around and after some roll on tests. The temp outside was around 65.

With a 4lb spring in the wg, and the ic connected, I'm seeing 3-1/2 to 4lb on the gauge. Not sure how accurate this was, but it felt good.

Gonna definitely put tail pipes on it, and plumb the wg into them.

I'm gettin' old. It's way too loud with a dump pipe and open wg.

 

A BIG thank you to everyone who chimed in.

I really REALLY appreciate your help and encouragement and "likes"

But the projects far from over. LoL.

I'm eyeing a bigger turbo.

I sold the Paxton last weekend and have a little coin (old school term for $$, not "BIT") to spend.

 

That's great glad to see you having some fun now your gonna want more boost soon LOL!

 

It's addicting, that's for sure, but still cheaper than most bad habits and my family can go for rides too.

I plan to reset the Atomic and drive it around for a couple days so it can learn the new setup.

After that I'll turn up the boost a little bit at a time until it stops pulling. Then I'll order a bigger turbo.

Room is issue (between the diff and the lower control arm), and it's hard to find lengths of turbos published.

 

Ok so I'm putting this on here to share an idea and its execution in the spirit of transparency, even though it's not perfect.

As you know, I thought the open dump was too loud

I've been looking everywhere, trying to find some way to quiet it down without building duals yet bc there isn't enough time left in the Northeast before the snow flies and the car gets put away until spring, and I want to drive it, so I needed something quick .....and I'm cheap.

So last night I took a Ford 9 inch carrier bearing end cap, (the ones you turn in/out when adjusting ring gear back lash) machined off the threads until the od was about 2.87", tapped it into the 3" dump and took off for a ride.

Not bad, I thought. It lowered the db and the droning, but there was still room for improvement.

Today I made a baffle-like insert. I took a 1.75" exhaust pipe, cut it to a 6" length, and turned it down until I had an interference fit with the center hole of my new end cap...about 1.65" od.

Then I drilled about 60 or 70 very random holes in it, cleaned up the burrs, and tapped it into the opening of the end cap.

I did not use any sound deadening wrap.

Took her out for a spin.

Not bad, if I say so myself.

Yeah I'm probably down 10 or 20 hp, but now I can take it out at night without pissin' off the neighborhood.

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Pic is of a spare bearing cap, and the actual baffle insert that I used.

 

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The end result

Not a show piece but it serves a purpose

 

Charge tube

Some day I'll have it welded up to eliminate the couplers

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Mishi IC in front of a Champion 3 row aluminum radiator.

It's a 166-CC381 for a 69-72 Ford and is a few inches narrower than stock, which allowed me to bring the 3" charge air tubes between the frame rails and the radiator support, after a little trimming of the support.

All of this work was done after I installed the Paxton.

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Instead of clicking on thumbnail, click on full image please. Looking at thumbnail images sucks for old folks.

 

Done

Sorry 'bout that

Shoulda known. I'm one too.

 

Man that looks great what RPM are you seeing boost.

 

Thanks. Everything is looking really good.