Time in between working on this seems like forever. Whew!!

The turbo mount needed some trimming, but now it's completely done.

I also lowered the turbo, mangled the air filter (bahaha) and trimmed the drivers side lower trailing arm, so now the dump pipe has clearance for the suspension travel.

The hot side needed to be matched to the t3/t4 flange that I'd (mistakenly) purchased 2 years ago.

I moved the oil feed line away from the headers.

Primed the turbo with the return line disconnected.

Then I tried starting the engine, even though the oil return is not done........

I just wanted to hear it run for 20 seconds.

The fuel pump fuse popped, replaced it, popped again.

F@k it

Going home to have a beer

#ad

 

Took out the ohm meter last night.

Wiring, fuse, and relay are fine.

Something inside the fuel tank is f'd. Either the positive side of the electrical is grounding out or the fp is fried.

I used a bore scope to try and see what is happening in the tank but I can't get close enough to the fp to see. It looks like the connector melted, but I won't know for certain until I drain the gas and drop the tank.

I have a new 255lph Carter HP pump coming, like the one I had before installing the Aeromotive that's in there now.

 

Fuel pump was an easy fix.

Popped out the sending unit and replaced an insulator that isolates the +12 terminal connector that powers the pump.

Then tackled the oil scavenge pump.

I used 1/4 - 20 riv nuts and bolts to secure it to the floor board.

#ad

 

Will that work with the pump not having a tank before it and higher than the drain outlet? The one I just installed had a tank with a vent in it so there wouldn't be vacuum applied to the turbo.

 

Mind if I ask whose pump you're using and are you happy with it?

I'm not sure how good my setup will work.

It is self priming though.....which doesn't address the vacuum.

I did power it on briefly today but had to leave (to play some football with my 10yo son)

I will do some searching on that vacuum thing you mentioned, thank you.

 

The MSD Atomic has a fuel pump +12 that I'm using for the scavenge pump because it has a pulse width modulated option.

I'm not using the MSD for the Aeromotive fp in the tank. The Aeromotive uses a relay powered by switched 12v, and then 12v from the battery.

I'm hoping that if I use the MSD pwm setting for the oil scavenge, it will lower the voltage and therefore the speed of the pump at idle and cruise (per the manual). Under higher loaders, the voltage is supposed to increase.

Maybe I'll give Tilton (pump mfg'r) a call tomorrow and run it by them

 

You really want the turbo to drain in to a vented reservoir like nxcoupe is suggesting. My setup uses one of the cheap gear pumps, and the inlet of the pump is a couple inches above the reservoir. It's loud at full voltage and moves way more oil than necessary so I use a pwm controller to drop the speed quite a bit. A pwm output that changes duty cycle with engine rpm is ideal and on my list of electronics projects.

Even with the reservoir I had issues with oil leaking past the turbo seals after shutdown. Turbo shaft seals are a lot like piston rings and they require pressure to seal properly. My setup is a rear mount in a full size truck so I have a very long feed line and it's all downhill to the turbo. The large amount of unpressurized oil draining down that line was causing issues. The trick to solving that problem is using a hydraulic check valve positioned so that oil pressure has to reach the cracking pressure of the valve in order to allow flow. Position the valve close to the turbo.

 

Thank you SpartanSv

As always I appreciate the advice

Not sure how my setup will behave.

I was able get back there and run it several times on the lift. I watched for smoke during a cold start up but didn't see any.

The oil pump is controlled by the pwm setting in the Atomic. All seems pretty good, but I've yet to drive it as there's no pressure side tubing yet.

My turbo is actually higher than the 12 ft of -3AN that feeds it, mostly bc the rear of the car sits slightly higher.

Then, near the turbo, the oil line pitches up to go through a frame support. Only the last 4 - 5 inches of the line turn downward into the turbo. Hopefully all that will help eliminate too much oil from dripping in after shutdown.

I will definitely put a one way, low pressure valve in the feed line if I see smoke on start up.

I also might extend the drain line before the pump......perhaps route it toward the front of the car (and downward) then loop back toward the pump. This would give me a kind of reservoir. The pump is capable of lifting oil 8 ft, so the added length shouldn't be a problem.

I'm also trying to figure out the pressure side.

I may have to move the exhaust toward the outside of the car bc it'll be close to the pressure tubing as it was built (didn't see THAT coming)

 

Also looking at wastegates

Mine is letting a lot if exhaust out at idle

It's a 4psi spring

Thinking about an 8 or 10psi

 

You won't have 4psi of pressure at idle. If it's leaking you have an issue that a heavier spring isn't going to cure.

There is a ring the valve needs to seat against. It's usually called a fire ring. Did you forget to install it?

 

That makes sense

I usually test the wg and bov before installing either

Maybe I forgot

 

Not sure on the pump, but it has an aluminum box the pump is connected to and it has a 6 an vent on the top of it we are running up to the catch can so it is vented. This is on a customer's car.
It will create a vacuum on the turbo without it.

 

Awesome

Thank you, sir

 

You were right, Spartan. Thank you.

Much quieter now

 

I don’t have a tank with a vent mine works great and has for years. #ad

 

Thanks rdakota340

I've come to realize one should take the minimalist approach: throw the least amount of stuff at the project, and if it leaks, smokes, or rattles throw more stuff at it.

So far I've run the engine 6 times with oil lines connected and it does >not< smoke cold, hot or revving to about 2500.

The only problem I have is a small oil leak from the pump. It's coming from the small cover near the inlet/outlet side.

2 screws holding it were slightly loose so I gave 'em half a turn.

Maybe that'll fix it.

 

The was a easy fix, I do have a STS check valve in the oil feed just to let you know some guys don’t have one.

 

If that is a tilton pump, it will pull vertical all day. No need for a tank or breather. The way you have it will work great.
My tbird has that pump 12 inch vertical and 2 1/2 feet away.

 

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Hi tbird

It is a Tilton 40-524 with buna seals

Any thoughts on the small cap that is on top of the pump head?

There is no call out on the instructions.

It is fastened to the pump head with 2 small screws and holds a round rubber seal-like-cap approx 3/4" diameter.

That is where its dripping.

I took the cap off and inspected/cleaned the rubber cap but didn't see anything obvious.

I didn't run it bc it was too late.