I don't know if it's any better or worse but here's the log files along with some details. I will say that the idle doesn't hunt like it used too but I would have to drive it first then stop for a few minutes then restart it and see what it does.

-Idle is really high at 1200 and I couldn't figure out how to get it back down to 980ish.
-It dies when I put it in gear and I struggle getting it into gear b/c it keeps dying and the high RPM isn't helping.
-Upon restart the engine revs to about 2000 then slowly comes back down to 1200.
-TB was fully closed and the car would idle fine when cold but once it got warm the idle would start hunting so I had to open the TB to keep it from dying. I'm not sure if this adjustment was logged in the #1 log below.

#4-ASHFORD IDLE TUNE SETTINGS IN GEAR log file starts with the car already in gear then I slowly press on the accelerator a few times then I put it in Park.

#1-ASHFORD IDLE TUNE SETTINGS starts when the engine temp is about 157* then warms up past this temp. I think it may show the car dying when I put it into gear.

ks

 

something definatly goofy with the idle valve, i would swap it out with an old one if you have one lying around.
idle spark wasn't activating so i made a change- really hard to do this kind of thing 2nd hand.

 

IAC is brand new, less than 50 miles. It replaced the previous brand new one that had about 300 miles BUT I can replace it again if it can be proven that it's bad, they aren't that expensive.

EDIT... I'll order another one tonight anyway..

I understand the difficulty and I have no expectations on your time or effort. Anytime you feel that you're done just let me know. I certainly appreciate the time you've already used up on this.

Edit.. Did the IAC valve frequency get changed in the tune from what Disney mentioned?
"Also, you've got it set to 75Hz, where i'm usually around 200Hz."

ks

 

didnt touch the frequency, the old hitachi (before yours ) run at 80 hz, some newer than 03 run at 300 and variations in between
what brand of iac are you getting i have found most aftermarket are junk and get thrown into the fuckit buckit.

 

I only use Motorcraft from RockAuto.

ks

 

No go... It idles perfectly fine while it's still warming up but as soon as it gets past 155* and enters closed loop the idle starts hunting. Here's the log if anyone wants to look at it. I also changed the IAC frequency to 204Hz from 75Hz as Disney mentioned above. This log is done while the car is in Park.

A new IAC valve will be here sometime next week..

ks

 

noticed in the log idle spark is still not doing anything, went to look at what firmware you have and it is old as hell. how comfortable are you at updating the code?

 

I just now updated it.. It's now 3.1.06.

ks

 

Can I assume that the software version won't affect the outcome of the log file or should I log it again using the new version?

ks

 

firmware in ms and software on computer are 2 different things.

i think you could update to 1.4.1 without issue
https://www.msextra.com/downloads/archive/ms3/

1.5 introduced a bit of change and will spit out a few settings errors easy to get around if you get a screen shot of it
1.5.1 is probably the newest i would run(cant remember it it was 1.5.1 or the betas than changed flex fuel math)
https://www.msextra.com/downloads/

if you do remember to save your tune not as "current tune"

 

Got it updated and here's a new log with the same symptoms. I tried to log the transition from open to closed loop.

ks

 

somehow idle timing correction curve got zeroed, you do that?

 

SORRY ABOUT THAT! I was manually updating my tune file so I can try and understand what was being changed.

IT WORKS!!!! I got a two-for-one deal too b/c it not only idles smoothly when warm it doesn't die when put into gear! I tried it several times after warming up and it's nice and smooth. When going from open loop to closed loop the transition was perfectly smooth. The only thing that is a bit rough is when blipping the throttle in Park the RPM hunts for a few seconds before smoothing out. You can see this at the very end of the log file. BUT you are more than free to quit while we are ahead and I can certainly live it! I haven't driven it yet due to rainy weather but I can't see where it wouldn't work..

Here's the tune and log file if anyone wants to look at it.

So, in a nutshell what was wrong and what did you change?

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!

Kevin

 

nothing really "wrong" just did some idle tuning, something is either wrong with you iac or you have a huge plenum on your intake. its a bit hard to explain but basically ford iac(of this style) close up a bit with higer vaccum and open up with less, sorta way of expressing pwm%= certain air flow. if you get one that dosnt mach your engine well enough it oscilates like crazy. they even do this when unplugged.

basically at this point you are flowing too much air with closed tb. iac is basically closed duty cycle wise and rpm is being pulled down by timing. when you are in gear things look close to what they should pwm wise when in neutral.

2 things you can do tune wise

1. starup/idle > closed-loop settings. set pid gains 600-1000, timing control should keep iac oscilation in check now
2.startup/idle > idle advance settings > pid idle activates. set to normal and use delay =0. idle spark will com on immediately when conditions are met( possible set rpm to 1500)
3. play with idle valve frequency. if yours is the common 4.6 2v one it should like 75- 150 hz.( other things apply like polarity or flyback diode but it should be built into the valve on yours)

mechanical stuff
get it so that it is not pulling timing to get the idle down where it should be, get tb to close properly, find vacuum leaks, double check iac is not fubarred, if none of that works pull the throttle body and peen the hole in the blade to close it off a bit.

then it is rinse and repeat for the throttle stop and initial values

 

The plenum could definitely be considered big especially with a Victor Jr, 90mm TB and matching elbow, see pic below. The IAC is not mounted like factory, instead it's on the inner fender so I'm sure this is the entire reason it's not acting normal and has delay. The car came with the IAC mounted on the fender and I left it as-is but cleaned up the plumbing. The red/blue AN fitting you see in the below pic is one end of the IAC then the other end is connected to the orange cylindrical vacuum block in the second pic, so, there is a lot of volume to deal with.
I will install the new IAC when it arrives, hopefully it will help a bit. I'm very excited to drive it for once in a very long time although it's never had an issue during driving.. I just didn't like to turn it off..


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Sometimes it helps not to be in closed loop at idle . If theres any hot side leaks , it can throw the AFRs off and the ECU will try to correct the false reading by adding and pulling fuel .