So in summary... we're sitting at about 3250 lbs no driver and finished the year of 2020 with a personal best of 11.7 @ 118

Video attached.

Mechanically I think everything is decent and working. So that brings us to the goals for 2021... Faster. I'd like to hit a 10.x off the footbrake. Things I'm planning on tackling first:

-rear disc brakes
-Kirkey seats to replace factory buckets (purchased)
-TBSS intake with larger throttle body
-Deep transmission pan and new larger transmission cooler
-Rear end cover with a girdle
-Lots more tuning and toying with water/meth and timing. I have a lot of good advice from the other thread to work through
-I got larger tires as a Christmas gift. 275-60-15 Nitto which I'm wondering how these will compare to the 275-50-15 ET Streets

I figure if I can get the car down into the 3100# range it will be riot. Thanks for looking and I'll try to keep this updated!

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Some parts are trickling in, pretty stoked to get back on this when it gets a little warmer.

NNBS intake from ebay, and a new throttle body. Seemed like a good low cost upgrade.

I'm most excited about the rear disc brakes. The drums don't hold this thing back well at all.


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Hey, it's getting warmer.....

 

I know! I'll have an update soon.

 

OK so the biggest thing I wanted to correct this year is the brakes on this thing. The rear drums ain't cutting it.

My plan was to do a super budget rear disc setup using the following parts:

-Rotors 2003 S10 Rockauto $17/ea
-Calipers 2012 Impala front eBay $75/pair
-Brackets DIY $0
-Pads 2012 " " $15/set
Hardware (banjo bolts, hose adapters, etc. ) $25

All told I think this setup would work well for $150-ish with 6.3 in^2 piston area compared to a typical rear caliper in the 2.8 in^2 range.

The problem is this system would be heavy! Estimated weight would be 62 lbs!

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New plan - Something closer to Wilwood 140-0263-BD ($525 retail)

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdRear?itemno=140-0263-BD

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So after a little searching and I found a Jaguar rotor that has the same thickness (~.375) as the Wilwood rotor. The offset and diameter is slightly different but I think I can get there with a bracket and could always trim down the rotor if needed.

-Rotors 1992 Jaguar XJ6 rear $18/ea
-Calipers Wilwood 120-6818 $107/ea
-Pads Wilwood 150-8850K $43/set
-Brackets DIY $0
-Hardware TBD

So were at $293 with free shipping and I just have to make a bracket. Total weight 31.6 lbs for about the same performance going off piston area. In this case I think I'm willing to spend an additional $150 to save 30lbs. I should probably just order the kit but I'm stubborn like that.

Time to order some parts

 

If you can find a drop in solution for the rotor it will make maintenance down the road a lot easier. You probably will not find a lot of gain in a rear brake upgrade. They do look nice though!

 

I agree on the maintenance for sure.

I'm struggling hard to foot brake this thing, much past 2300 rpm and I push through the brakes. That's where I'm hoping to see some gains!

 

What is your convertor stall?

 

Im in a similar boat as you right now trying to piece it together myself to spend as little as possible! Rockauto in an amazing site for this! They are by far the easiest site to navigate for stock parts but also list the detailed info needed to size and compare things, then they top it all off with multiple different options for everything with some of the best pricing.

Also a big fan of this car! I've always like them but my first auto teacher I had in Boces had a 1970 with open headers that he used to bracket race. He used to bring it in for us and him to work on all the time and being 16 at the time it was 1 cool ride!

 

4000 (Freakshow 9.5 converter).

Also... Manual brakes with a Napa M2534 master cylinder. I'll have to dig for details on this but it was a recommended master for Chevelles.

Agreed! Between McMaster and Rockauto you can find all kinds of things with a little patience. I usually google whatever part number I find and sometimes find even better pricing. For example I found the rotors at the same price with free shipping.

And thanks! This thing has grown on me so much I don't think I'd be able to sell it.

 

I knew a guy that ran a line lock on the rear cause it pushed...don't know that worked out, however.

 

I can see that helping. Only have to stand on the brakes really hard long enough to press the button. If I tied that in with the 2 step... hmmm

 

What is your pedal ratio with the manual brakes? This may be as simple as moving a pin in the brake lever.

 

I think I moved it up to the manual brake position. Going from memory I think they ( A bodies) have all have both holes available. I'll check though.

 

Awesome build

 

Thanks! I hope to have some updates very soon.

 

The guy with the pushing car got the idea from his friend. The friend was running his mother's buick GN and got it in the 7's with this trick.
Just remembered......oh the 90's were so long ago. LOL

 

Quick update. I haven't made much progress but I did get all the new brake parts in.

I set the rotor and caliper inside the wheel as a quick sanity check and it has loads of room.

I also printed the adapter plate but made some mistake because it puts the caliper about 1/4" inboard of where it's supposed to be. Not sure where my error is just yet. Once I get it figured out and test fit I'll machine the final part.

I also found some serious slop in the axle bearings. New ones are on order. Glad I pulled it apart.

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I'll second the idea of the line lock on the rear brakes. Car's push through b/c the rear tires are turning and if you can hold them tight then it won't push through. As it was mentioned a lot of the Grand National guys do this for the same solution to hold a lot of boost while foot braking.

ks

 

I love that this is a sloppy inspired. Whens the 1000rwhp dyno

I've done that with the trans snap ring before as well. The picture in the haynes manual shows the damn thing out of the groove XD