Convert it to efi and don't look back.

 

can you add some accel pump to it or a faster cam?

 

I went up to 32/31 squirters and drove it around and it seemed to help. The log I took shows it to still have a lean spike, but it seems to recover quicker.

I think I am going to go bigger still. Since the squirter number = the hole diameter (#32 = 0.032") I am going to use my numbered drill bits to open up an old set of squirters to see if it gets better.

I'm also going to put a new set of plugs in it. Those have been in there a long time.

 

I’ve been on here for awhile, and always read but usually don’t post so I don’t think I can send a PM till I post a few times. So if you don’t mind where did you get your MS kit from? Also I know there is a lot about it on there internet but is there a certain place better to get info on it? Is the learning curve pretty tuff? Thank you in advance

 

Www.diyautotune.com

MS is not super hard to learn to use. I like them and they do what I expect amd want.

Certainly easier than tuning OEM stuff with all their scads of modifiers, etc.

As for a source of info, there is a MS forum and some FB groups. MS can be tough to get solid information on because so many people have so many different setups and are using so many different features. It can be frustrating. It's not like a Holley system on an LS that has been done a million times.

 

Gotcha. That’s who I was looking at but wanted to wait on your reply. I appreciate the response and didn’t want to use your thread for a Q&A I just didn’t know how else to go about it.

 

Today was a fun one. It is surprising the number of carb deficiencies that having a 5 speed/clutch can mask.

I took the intake hat and vent tube extensions off. Drove it and it stumbled and acted just like it had been. I started with 32/31 squirters and incremently drilled them to 35, 37 and ended on 39. That got it to not fall on it's face and actually spin the tires. It still is not right because it will launch, then build rpm slow then clean up and run good. Tried it with the tubes and hat on and it was the same.

Next up: going to baseline the idle transfer slot, and secondary plates, then block the primary PV. The low rpm bog seems to correspond with engine vacuum dropping below 6.5. I increased the PVCR's back when I did the blowthru conversion and I really think that was a mistake, at least for an automatic trans.

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Ok lets throw a little math at this situation. I read a good article by Jeff Smith on Jets, PV's and orifice sizes here:

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-t...s-holley-power-valves-explanation-and-tuning/

When I did the blowthru, I increased the PCVR's to 0.075" following the guide at Hanger 18. I should have researched it a bit more before drilling to know exactly how much this was going to change things. Going to a 0.075" PVCR, with 67 primary jets is the equivalent flow of running the stock 0.038" PVCR's with 83 jets on the primary side. Yowza.

So when my PV opens, it suddenly goes from 67 mains to the equivalent of running an 83 main jet (+ PV enrichment.) For comparison's sake, the stock PCVR's + 67 jets flow the equivalent of a 73 jet.

I am going to borrow an un-modified metering block from a buddy, remove the hat, and see if it runs more, like I expect it should.

 

I read the Hanger18mod it’s what I am gonna go by also, and have it copied and saved. I’ve definitely gotta do more research before I get started on my project, because obviously that step is application specific from your findings. I appreciate you posting the website also.

 

I have a very similar set up I will check my log book tonight and let you know what I have in my car.
I know I drilled my PVCR's smaller than what hanger 18 recommended and I run a 8.5 or 7.5 PV to get the fuel to come in quicker.
I still have the factory squirter and cams in mine.

 

Thanks. This thing has not felt right since the intake swap, so I feel like I need to stop and check everything related to it. It pulls 18-20in of vacuum idling, but really drops when I put it in gear. The big drop could be caused by a vacuum leak. I know I bumped the intake gaskets when I was putting the intake on, but I thought I got them back in place.

I swapped on a different metering block and the car behaved exactly the same.

One thing I have not checked during all this is the float level. If it turns out to be that, I think I may give up cars altogether and just go ride dirt bikes. Haha.

 

Here is what I currently have in my car and is working very well. Might be a good reference for you.
PV=8.5 , PVCR=2.3mm , fuel pressure 6psi,
Primary jets 65 , Secondary jets 70, with vent tube extensions.
I can actually adjust my WOT A/F with different openings on the tubes. Small changes to the opening make huge difference in WOT A/F!

 

How much does your RPM drop when your putting it in gear? Try clamping your vacuum modulator vac line shut and see if it still acts up.

 

Idle in N at 1000, drops to a rough 500ish.

AOD does not have a vacuum modulator.

It ran good before the intake swap. I am feeling more and more like something is wrong related to that and I am chasing my tail messing with symptoms rather than causes. I'll know more later today.

 

If you have a pressure tester for your turbo kit it would be really easy to look for vac leaks. When you change the intake then problems arising is usually a sealing related problem.

 

Float levels are perfect.

I'm going to pull the carb and look down in the intake, then maybe pull the intake and see what I can find.

 

Not that hard to pull the intake manifold, I would pull it just to be safe!
Only cost you about $25 in gaskets! and you could rule that out!
My 2 cents!

 

Judd and I pulled the intake and I am 98% sure I know what the problem is.

Compression test, 130-135 on all 8. There was the white evidence of moisture under the valve covers, but the oil is not milkshake. We pulled the intake and the gaskets were properly positioned, but there was some evidence of staining. It wasn't until I was driving home that I remembered the RTV on the china walls. It was completely squeezed out. I think the intake was bottoming on the china walls before snugging down tight on the intake gaskets and heads. The moisture would be from the coolant crossovers not sealing good.

The intake gaskets I used were 0.040" so I am going to research using thicker ones.
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I think you found it!

 

Fit the intake dry (no gaskets) and see3 what kind of feelers you can get in there.