Funny... I just went on TechConnect (now Service Library) to find the con rod bearing end O.D. and it's not listed. On any years. Just the pin bore and crank pin diameter. No specs from the manufacturer on the big end of the rod.

Manley is showing their Hemi rods to have a big end of 2.252".

https://www.jegs.com/p/Manley/Manley-Chrysler-57L-61L-HEMI-H-Beam-Connecting-Rods/3318957/10002/-1

 

I'm pretty sure that's the bore size I found as well. I'll torque a couple up, and hit them with the bore gauge. I have a set of King bearings here I want to compare to the stockers as well.

 

Got the weldon gear pump mounted to the transmission mount. Should make a lot less noise bolted to the powertrain. #ad

 

How strong is a 4.7 block ?is it even worth putting aftermarket rods in?

 

AirRam has both H and I beam scat rods for the 4.7 as well as forged pistons with different compression ratios. The bedplate setup seems plenty strong, never seen a failed block before. I'm just playing with it because it's there, and not many people have leaned on these engines hard with a turbo. One fellow has a big blower on his Jeep 4.7l and is always rebuilding something on it, but a lot of his issues had been fuel, tune and blower drive related.

Truth be told, a Hemi will bolt right in place of the 4.7l and that may be my end goal, but I'm curious as to how the 4.7 will do. The Jeep weight is 4,000 - 4100 lbs depending on the source so it's still lighter than a Hellcat or Demon. If I can hit those power levels with AWD it'll be a real fun machine and a no prep monster.

 

Just got done wiring the two 0211's to the coils and re-wiring a couple 10-pin connectors to 16ga wire, and crimping and pinning the bosch connectors when I realized ebaying a couple racks of ls coils and bracketing them up probably would have been easier and cheaper. However I have dual plugs on the setup so I can plug in the stock pcm should the megasquirt ever experience an issue or tuning glitch. I like redundancy and hate walking.

 

Well the weather's been crappy and I have been busy with work and other people's projects so not much has been done lately but the bad ideas are still flowing.

Bad idea #1

I've found an aftermarket transmission controller that can run the 45RFE transmissions as well as many others for not a lot of money. This would allow me unlimited transmission tuning, access to all 6 speeds, paddle shifting if I want it, as well as the ability to grab a gearset from a 66/68RFE for broader ratios.

Code:

Gear ratios         1     2       3*      4      5       6        R
545RFE / 65RFE    3.00    1.67    1.50    1.00    0.75    0.67    3.00 or 2.21

66RFE / 68RFE     3.23    1.84    1.41    1.00    0.816   0.625   4.445
* “Prime” gear used for kickdown only

#ad
Not bad for $750. The harness are extra.



Bad idea #2

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The '08+ cams were a big leap for the 4.7l and they were made onto a solid bar vs a tube on the older engines. The lobes are splined and pressed onto the shaft. Looking at the cam specs, the intake lobes are larger than the exhaust. I'm thinking I could get another set of cams and press off the lobes and build my own. Not only could I increase the exhaust lift with an intake lobe, I could also take the opportunity to position the lobes how I want, varying the lobe separation angle.

I have some cam timing adjustability in the chain set due to having two chains driving the cams. If I play with the tooth spacing I found I have 4.05 degrees, 7.2 degrees, and 11.5 degrees of adjustment at the cams simply by moving backward a tooth on the lower timing chain sprocket and moving backward or forward a tooth at the cam sprocket. The lower timing chain sprocket is also splined to the sprockets that drive the cams, so there's some more adjustability as well.

 

This is how I did my WJ

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Wow, nice work! Right where I was going to put a liquid to air. Where have you been hiding this beauty, and how's it run?

edit: Damn, and you stuffed an '08+ engine in there!

 

It runs great. The GTK 1050 is extremely responsive in my setup. You noticed the 16 sparks. Lol

Currently is set to 17psi, but it can run as much boost as the plastic intake manifold can take.

 

Any update on this build? Looks interesting!

 

17 lbs on a 300hp engine puts you around 700 hp. That's gotta be a hoot! Have you got a place I can see more? Naturally I have a ton of questions. Like how you found room for the pipes! lol

 

I haven't gotten much farther yet. Life keeps happening to me. Getting a big project done which should free me up to get back on it.

 

The goal with the 78mm was 600+ whp on low boost and around 7-800 with a little more boost. The custom stroked/low CR/high rev "4.7" made more than 300hp N/A. I haven't dyno this set up yet because I'm still messing with it. However, I think I reached the project goal already.
Unfortunately, I don't have a place nor a page dedicated to the WJ build, but there are few posts out there in all the Facebook WJ pages.

As far as the piping goes; custom made headers router under oil pan to the front of the engine feeding the turbo. Downpipe and wastage are exiting through the front fender.

#ad

 

Fantastic. Judging from the tire you kept the 4wd. Do you have the Quadradrive, with the 247 t-case or the 242 select tract? If you're still running the varilok diffs I have a trick for you to get more bite out of them.

 

231hd. Locker in the front and varilok in the D44a.

N/A uphill video..


Turbo.


12psi