Thanks in advance. The engine fires and runs good at idle. When I “blip” the throttle open quickly it will die. If I pat the throttle a little when trying to rev the engine, it will rev up fine. I haven’t driven it yet as I was trying to get it running better first. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated. I removed a good running demon blow through carb to install this for better drive ability and tunability.

 

For starters, you need to get the idle steps down in between 3-10 at a warm idle. And you'll have to play with the idle speed. I couldn't ever get mine to idle below 850 rpm. I could ask it to idle at 800 but it was a fight that I could never win. Set the idle to be 900 and adjust the idle screw to get the step count between 3-10. Adjust the screw, power the system down, start it back up and see if you need to repeat. At that point you can try to get the idle lower but you need to be close to begin with or you'll chase your tail.

 

My car and 2 others I know had a very rich tipin issue. At idle in park, af would be like 14.2 and if I reved it, it would go straight to 10.0 (and honestly I think it went below 10 but it wouldn't read below 10) I ended up with the acceleration and fast acceleration values set to -80 on both. I could make the problem worse but never better. When you adjust any given value, don't be scared to change it by 30 at one time. I was scared to change much when I first started, so I would only change a value by 2.

But you do need to drive it some to learn

 

I found it a lot easier to set the idle where I wanted it off of the throttle plate then adjust the desired idle in the command unit until I got it to hold at 3 steps. If you cant get it to idle down as far as you want check your throttle linkage to make sure the travel isn't being restricted. It might be easier to just leave the linkage disconnected while your getting idle set. It needs to be at operating temp btw.
As for it dying when you stab it you need to change your fast accel pump settings. If its dying on blips or stabs its your fast accel, if its slow to come up on power its your accel, but they will likely both have to be changed and they effect each other so you may end up going back and forth between them. Change them in blocks of 20 until you get it to start behaving, then 10, eventually you'll get it dialed and move in increments of one or two.

 

My idle issue was not a linkage problem, the Holley system will idle at 500 if I want. Same injectors and intake setup. I think the Fitech couldn't handle the injector size at idle. But my rich tipin was there with 80lb injectors on gas and e85. It was also there with the 150lb injectors on e85.

 

Does the ultimate LS allow you to adjust the minimum injector pulsewidth?

 

Not that I ever ran across on the handheld

 

This is great information guys. Keep it coming if you don’t mind. Thank you

 

The whole tipin issue was one of the main reasons why I went with holley. I can't tell you how many times I had to reset and start over because I was changing anything to make it better. I would make changes just sitting in the garage and it would feel better. Then power down, clear the learned values and go drive it. It would end up with the same issue or worse. So frustrating. ..

I had a MSD 2 step on mine and it would work like it should to a degree, it would go pig rich but then clean up and build boost. My friend with basically the same combo couldn't ever really get up on the 2 step, it would go rich and shut off.

On the handheld I tried going up and down for the cubic inch of the engine. And doing the same with the injector size. I tried different locations for my o2 sensors. I jacked my fuel pressure all over. It just never got better.

My kit was one of the first batches of them and I had issues with the map sensor not reading correctly but it was interment so I bought a ls9 map sensor that now comes standard. But that still didn't fix my problem. Come to find out later was Fitech had a software update that fixed it . The update also gave me the option to select turbo, supercharger or naturally aspirated. That i never saw before. If you've never seen that option, call Fitech and have them send the latest update. Might be good to do that anyway.

 

Ok. I see no where in my hand that has a choice of turbo, supercharger etc. I will contact Fitech AGAIN and see if I can get it resolved. You’ve been a huge help so far. Thank you.

 

Ok, if your having trouble with idle and tip in there are some advanced methods for fixing this.

First you need to get it as good as you can with the basic settings. If you can't get it to work in an acceptable way your going to have to do some actual tuning.

You will have to enable the pro tuning menu.
You will then have options to modify your injectors and breakpoints, you absolutely can reduce your idle fuel flow. If you don't understand these items get your googlefoo on. You will also be able to modify your 3d accel pump maps.

Fitech has a lot of features, they simply dull it down so the average user can have an easy time of it. If your willing to spend some time with the system and be patient it has a lot to offer.

 

Wow. That’s great news. I’m still learning the tuning side and this helps a lot. Thank you.

 

Sounds like B E N is your man. I was all over the pro tuning side of my set up and after I received no more help and hours of wait time from Fitech I bailed. I fought for a year with it and I drive my car alot.

 

I don't believe it's as user friendly as the Holley unit in these extreme applications, but it can be made to work. You can also get a lot of help from the fitech owners group on Facebook.

 

I don't think my combo is extreme, stock 5.3 with a cam, valve springs and 67mm turbos. This is a proven simple, cheap combo. The Fitech kit I had was the 750hp kit. If you do the math, my 3,200 lb car went 112 with a 1.50 60ft in the 1/8th, that puts the hp close to 700 .

 

I have basically the same engine and turbo set up in my C10 that you have. I just want it to run good and have decent street manners. I don’t take it to the track, just a quick street machine.

 

That's all mine is and it's doable. I try to drive mine to work on Fridays and it's a 32 mile round trip. I've gone to the track once, not in a rush to go back. When I went to the track it was on 12 psi and now I'm at 16 psi.

But seriously get the latest software version from Fitech so you know for sure. My timing table was pictured earlier and that was my 12 psi setup, it ran the best overall on that.

 

I saw that table that you posted. I’ll be working on it more this weekend after the software update
Thanks

 

The table to the left that has the “degrees” on it, is that ambient temperature or a timing setting?

 

I don't remember how the front part of the was worded, it's been awhile but that was KPA vs rpm