You’re absolutely right. And having that option makes the decision to install the turbo much easier. I’d like it to be slick so I wouldn’t have to remember to roll it back on the downhill side. Thinking of that, with a manual control can I manage engine braking?

 

That would certainly work. I would like it to be slick but it doesn’t have to be. With that as a option it’s easier to decide to go ahead.

 

Is there any opinions as to which turbo to use? Would one of the small systems I have work well or if not another small unit? I was hoping to come up with compressor maps for the two I have to help me determine their worthiness.

 

Both of those turbos seem tiny they probably would have full spool at idle lol.
A .60/.63 t3 like from an earlier turbocoupe or a 50 trim to4e with a .63 housing would work better since the
Engine is larger and your only looking for
5psi

 

Where do I go to look for the compressor map? Am I faced with customizing any good salvage turbo I may find?

 

LS swap

 

There's not a shoe horn big enough!

 

Google it. You shouldn’t have to customize the turbo. Are you mounting this turbo under the rv rear mount, mid mount, or engine mounting it

 

my fail

 

I have not gotten to the point of deciding the exact mounting. The exhaust is on the back side of the engine. I can't even see it from the top. I'm looking for advice on this aspect, as well.

I did find the map but I think it's too large. As best I can ascertain the sweet spot needs to about 15 lb/min at a 1.5 pressure ratio.

 

It looks like the TD05 16G small is widely available and perhaps inexpensive. Would someone please argue for or against this choice and should you argue for, please suggest a particular vendor(s).

 

The 60/63 Garrett is right in the sweet spot you specified and is good til 275-300whp

 

Yes, a T3 60 trim is one and the only one, it seems, except for a IHI BRL4016 that was used on the Subaru EJ22 motors which equates to a 91-94 Legacy or a an Impreza I think of the same vintage but not sure. I don't find ANYTHING on the IHI except the compressor map. Is this thing like chicken teeth? It's a better fit than than the T3 if I'm keeping my units straight on the compressor maps...

 

Buy one of the cheapy t3-4's, (t3-4 .63 ar exhaust 57 trim yadda yadda). one of the cheapy t3 manifolds for the vr6, find a 3 psi wastegate that fits the manifold, or run an internal gate, put a water meth system on it for enrichment, run no intercooler, put a wideband on it, and drive hard. Bet a guy could peice this shit show together for 500 bucks with decent shopping. Hell the manifolds are down to like 50 bucks these days.

 

The goal is to maintain 14.7 PSIA. That should require no changes in anything since that's a design limit, the actual pressure at which everything is rated by the OEM.

The exhaust manifold is in fact just about $50. Do you suppose clearance issues for the Eurovan will be less or more than for one of the sedans?

 

No idea on clearance.

I think you are going to spend more time and energy trying to keep it at sea level then it would take to run a couple of pounds safely and reliably, but you do you.

 

If you try to do what your trying to do it’ll makes no sense.a turbo system to make like 10 hp. You might as well add a few psi

 

It’s much more than 10 hp. You loose 3.5% for ever 1000 ft above sea level. To say it another way, for every 1000 ft you only have 96.5% of the power you had. So, at 12000 ft that would be .96.5^12 = .65 , a loss of 35%.

 

If you lose 3.5% for every 1000ft wouldn’t that be 42% at 12k ? If that engine is that winded going up hills at that elevations add 5 psi of boost to offset most of your losses .im sure it’s not gonna be too much strain on the drivetrain if your only making up power you lost anyway.

 

You'll need 4.72 psi showing on a boost gauge at 12000' to theoretically equal the na hp at 1200'.