Hello all,

I have a fairly stock 1990 LX. It has an old HP Performance kit on it. Combo has been together for 5 years+. It produces around 380hp and 430tq on the dyno. Recently ran into some head gasket issues.

Combo is running a 67mm on 10 psi

I'm looking for recomendations for a good Head/Intake combo that will work on the stock engine and ones that I can carry over to a mild stroker when I have the cash to build an engine with a good block.

 

A top end kit isn't gonna do you any good if it gets trashed when you split the block.
If that's what you wanna do afr 185s are pretty solid with 3/4 inch decks. Holley systemax will be a decent intake for a stroker that could work ok for a 5.0. Imo
I'd leave your sbe 5.0 alone and build an aftermarket block

 

Thanks for the reply

It is my dilemma right now. Dont have the funds/time to build a new engine but I could do a top end. I also need to put some mufflers and an ignition box on it for the street.

I guess my short term goal would be to bring it up closer to block splitting power without adding boost. Maybe dial the boost down a tiny bit if possible. I'll be on third set of head gaskets within street 20k and 30+ passes. Although I do believe my latest problems were due to old gas .

Would be happy with 450-500hp but I dont want to mess up some new heads. Pulling heads off tomorrow and I would like to go need to decide if I go gaskets or new top end. Either way I think I'll have to spend a few bucks to dyno/re-tune.

Appreciate any opinions if I should keep it all stock or replace the top end and hope for the best. Also size of heads I should go with that would work on the stock 5.0 and also transfer to say a 331 with a 76 down the road.

 

Afr 185s would be good on a 331/347/351 . If you don't wanna spend money on a custom cam an F cam will do .a 351 is also a better option if 500 hp is your target. It will handle a bit more than that though. You can swap the heads , cam and upper intake from
A 5.0 to a 351 . Your hotside crossover and intercooler pipe will most likely need to be modified. What does your fuel system consist of as far as injectors and fuel pump?

 

Fuel system is stock with a 355 walbro and 42s.

 

You’re going about it backwards. Not upping boost with a turbo engine makes no sense. It’s not any easier on the motor making more power NA with less boost in most cases. Actually (if done correctly) boost is easier on the engine. Bone stock heads are more than enough to split that block.

Step 1. Buying a decent turbo.

Step 2. Ensure you have the best intercooler you can afford.

Step 3. Convert to E85 or install a good methanol inj kit.

Zero reason to tear into the engine IMO. 10 psi is diddly. You will bet MUCH more power per $ with a quality turbo setup than you will playing with heads and intakes.

If you have HG issues you need to address the tune. Not sure what a 67mm is? What size turbine wheel? What side housings? Brand?

 

Your fuel system should cover you to around 500hp. I'm running 12 psi on my 5.0 with 44lb injectors and a Walbro 255.
If you blew that many hg the factory heads don't have a very thick deck. If they were milled they might move and not hold the hg. Also check the deck on the block might not be straight you should check that too. Like said before check your tune.

 

Thanks, I did check the block and machined the stock heads last time I did the head gaskets. Using ARP bolts torqued to max. My tune should be good as I got it done by a reputable shop. I haven't tried studs yet.

Are you running E7s?

I was planning on dropping in some serious HP but they closed down my local race track. Now I'm planning on more of a streetable weekend driver. A little under block splitting power and I would be happy. Just want it reliable (as far as turboed 5.0s go anyway lol).

 

Limit timing near PK TQ a ton and apply "big" power after. It will keep the heads down. Assuming tuners knows what they are doing is a mistake IMO. Learn how and look it over. Or post up the timing tables for others to look at. Not saying that's the issue, but it shouldn't be pushing gaskets at 10lbs with a "good tune".

 

Yes I'm running e7s . My engine is untouched with factory HGs . If your heads have been machined they possibly could be on the thin side for head gasket retention then if that's the case heads would be the fix with a good quality hg . Head studs would help clamping the heads down better as long as everything is flat and have enough material to to hold the gasket in place

 

Thanks, I think regardless what route I take it will be going to the dyno. I'll have 5

I have a good turbo setup. It's an old HP Performance kit. I believe the company is out of business now but they did provide quality parts back in the day. Can't find much online as there website is no longer.

Heres a link to a mustang mag installing the same kit.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/m5lp-0710-fox-turbo-upgrade/

I would have to look up the turbo specs to give you accurate specs. It is a 67mm Garrett that should be properly matched. Standard kit came with a 60mm.

They say the Intercooler is good for 1000+hp. All pipes are 3.5" on everything.

I live in Clagary Canada and E85 is not readily available in most areas.

Thanks again for the reply and opinions

Leaning toward putting the #12 spring in, street exhaust (running open exhaust atm), MSD ignition and getting it retuned. Hope for the best.

After reading some older HG posts on here I'm assuming my tune is off.

Would studs make a big difference over the ARP bolts? What head gaskets would you go with? It had just the regular performance fel pros in it last time. Can't remember the number of them but they were recommended on this site when I put the kit on.

 

E7s don't hold HGs very well in the first place . The regular fel pro HGs are fine. Your turbo kit seems fine. What's 3.5" everything mean? Bring it to a reputable shop so hopefully they don't blow it up on the dyno.

 

Oops, fat thumbs and typing fast.

3.5 core intercooler with 3" tubing

If I remember correctly, I went with a 67mm they offered back then. Can't remember full specs, A/R .96 stamped on, can't see other side is in the fender.

Description of the system

"The system is highlighted by a 60mm Garrett turbocharger and HP's own 3.5-core intercooler. The kit also features ceramic-coated, 131/44-inch mild-steel tubular headers; a massive 311/42-inch down-pipe; 3-inch exhaust tubing with a Y-pipe, a T-bolt, and V-band clamps; a Walbro 255-lph fuel pump and new 42-lb/hr injectors; a TiAL 44mm wastegate; a Spal electric cooling fan"

I always wanted to crank up the boost a few lbs. Now I'm worried about HGs and would hate to wreck a new set of heads if the engine let's go.

I was kind of under the impression a H/I/C combo and less boost would be easier on everything.

Guess I'll take a good look at the E7s and get a pro opinion on them before I bolt them on again. If they look good I'll try them and up the boost a few lbs.

 

The factory heads and cam have enough in them to make block splitting hp. If the E7s get a clean bill of health and your tune checks out ok the head studs might be a bandaid for the time being. Invest that money into either a aftermarket 8.2" engine, stock 351 if you wanna stay Ford . Unless you wanna go LS or SBC . When my 5.0 decides to check out I'm gonna go With a gen 4 5.3 LS it might cost a bit more but it'll handle the hp I'm looking for plus they look like they belong under the hood of a fox the way they fit

 

2 schools of thought on the HG’s IMO. The graphite felpro deals you run now tend to wear down over the years in my experience and eventually let go... even with a good tune. 4-5 years was about the norm for me... so it could have just been their time. When I’d start to see the graphite material in the filter... I knew it was time to change the HG, usually caught it before it blew.

The graphite style act similar to a fuse. They are more easily blown if the tune isn’t right. If you stick a good MLS style gasket in there it’s less likely to spit out a HG and more likely to hurt the motor if the tune isn’t spot on. I ran my stuff on the edge so I liked the weaker HG seal.

Studs are a better design by nature. Always a good idea IMO. But def not "necessary".

Spitting out a HG is almost always due to a spike in cyl pressure near PK TQ. Latest tuning styles eliminate this by running super low timing around PK TQ. The turbo engines can more than make up for this by applying lots of power after PK TQ. This results in more average cylinder pressure and power over the RPM range while limiting the peak cylinder pressures that pop head gaskets out near PK TQ. Even if you don’t run into detonation... this tuning style is easier on the engine. Also don’t be afraid to rev the engine out a bit. In general the more you can wind it out past PK TQ the better. (within reason of course)

The guys that make the stock bottom ends last in the ford world I know run single digit timing near PK TQ.

I’m not bad mouthing what you have... Just saying the older turbos don’t have the technology advantages the newer designs do. The new turbos run much larger exhaust wheels and housings. This gives you less back pressure and makes more power per pound of boost. They also produce less heat at like boost pressures since the wheel designs are a ton more efficient.

 

Head studs don't do much for hg life with e7s as the thin deck is the true issue. Like forcefed posted, limiting cyl pressure at pk torque will help save gaskets, and will also go a long way towards keeping the block in one piece. The bad thing about the stock 5.0 is that the head flow is horrible, and they are not high revers, with stock pk hp at 4500 rpm na. I believe the 67mm has a p trim turbine, and with a .96 ar isn't a bad fit for a stock 5.0. Add a cam, or heads, and it will become small.

 

It sounds like a tuning issue. Like was said before, pull the timing back at peak torque and roll it back in up top. Heads will help the gasket issue, but a bad tune will melt parts no matter what heads you have. Your combo can make 500+ on stock heads.

 

Imo e7s will lift well before a questionable tune will destroy things on a forged piston engine. 12 psi, 17* 93, a2a, and s465 did mine in in very short order. It went back together at 13* and was good until I sold it.

 

Who is doing the tuning in Calgary?
I would look into just building a 351w block and use the better heads on that, but then you will want a bigger turbo, and on and on. Look for a used set of heads if you want to let the five o breathe better and use the f cam. Do not spend a lot on this but the e7 heads are almost as bad as gt40p heads for lifting, then goes the head gasket.....
Lots of guys have had good success building sbe Windsor engines and run them hard.
I see you are just chipping a stock ecu? If that's the case I would recommend running an aftermarket ecu. If on a budget you might want to consider building a micro squirt and use it to tune your 5.0. You can learn with it on your 5.0 and when you are ready for something else that will hold together you can use it on the new engine.