Ya I am. Urging it out and starting fresh, I am
Going to lay an aluminum panel over the top and just have have the sump poke through. I started the back with plans to keep the stock fuel cell and that didn’t end up working for me, it wasn’t worth it in my Opinion.

I really wanna do dragweek also, you can’t have a modified trunk floor?? WTF lol

Biggest problem for me was the upper shock bar needed the stock tank mounts cut out. It. Can be done tho, just wasn’t worth the trouble for me to put the stock mounts back where they were or just try to snake the barn in around it all

 

I have pics to pic but I think photobucket shit the bed again.

 

I also followed your build on the black cobra long ago on corral, was suuuuper clean. Used to look at it all the Time, what happened with that?

 

I got the rear end thrown together with the third member and axles to get the car on its feet again.

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FINALLY got the car as a roller.. My old 15x10 wheels still fit to roll around on, a 15x12 with 5" backspace should fit tits. Had to stack a handful of iron sbf heads in the engine bay to get the front down a little LOL

I had to cut out the typical mustang location anti roll bar to get it to sit lower, Im thinking ill have to put the roll bar behind the axle somehow.

Sitting this low, gives me about 2.5-3" of clearance between the axle tubes and the frame rails, along with the housing and the bottom of whats left of the floor. I was thinking I could even go a little lower, but Ill figure all that mess out later on when it matters.

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Went ahead and cut out the back of the trunk. I plan on running a couple bars across, and mounting a 10g cell on top of a sheet of aluminum cut out to fit the hole. Not sure how I am gunna secure it yet, with rivets or something, but was thinking something halfway quickly removable would be nice.

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Thanks man!

 

So.. I had some time in the garage the last couple days to try and get some wiring done on the engine harness. I ripped damn near every piece of wiring out of the car to start. The plan in my head is to re-wire the minimum things needed for the street. Headlights tail lights turn signals all that good stuff. Depending how it goes, I may wire in the power windows and dome light stuff. Going to pretty much have 2 seperate systems. One for the Ms3/engine, and one for the street stuff.

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I have a mach up motor that Im using to get ideas and mach stuff up on until I get the real deal from Zach Smith @ ZSR Engines. If you guys havent seen his stuff, go check out his facebook and website. His work is super nice and thorough. Good pricing too and he keeps alot of stuff in stock!

www.ZSRengines.com

Looks like hood fitment is going to be close with a 96-98 cobra hood.

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MAde a little bracket to weld to the elbow to hold the throttle bracket. I found a shorter cable from a 89? ford ranger. Looks like between the stock one and the ranger one, i should get the cable to work out good.

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I ordered a piece of 1x1 aluminum off amazon, and drilled and tapped some through holes. I am going to remote mount my pressure transducers on the firewall behind the engine and route all the pressure sources up to the bottom of the block.

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So here is the mach up motor. I should actually be able to fire it and run it to test all the new wiring and sensors etc, before putting the real deal in the car, so I dont have to deal with gremlins on the nice engine. This is all going to be a first for me, so here's hoping..

I was trying to figure out the coils here, they point in opposite directions on each back in order to have the pre-made plug wires fit nice, but I think i like the coils angled in the same direction. The plug wires wont fit that way so ill have to make my own.

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Soo.. I finally dug into making the engine harness which I have been working on the last couple days.. It like a brainfreeze working on it but it doesnt go away after a handful of seconds.. lol

Nothing came pre-made, just a bunch of different bags of different pins, plugs, seals, and some spools of different gauge red/black wires etc. for 12v/vref and sensor ground. The rest of the wire should end up being the color coded labeled wires from the MS3.

Started by trying to guesstimate how much to cut off the 8ft of wires coming out of the ms3, so i can build the harness on the engine side of the firewall. I am going to have the harness run through a deutsch hd30 firewall plug.

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Got the crank sensor made, i wanna try to do the whole engine kinda like this. We will see how it ends up. Got all the plugs pinned up and ran down the intake on the stand and am in the process of trying to route all the wiring and get all the 12v, sensor grounds and vref's slimmed down into a handful of wires for the firewall plug.

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looks like you are really stepping it up! good choice on the wolfe cage,they make really nice stuff..you can get the rear lower,but you will run into clearance issues with the bigger 9" housing and the upper control arm mounts..there just isn't a lot of room ,I did mount my shocks inside the trunk area..

I liked your old simple setup,this one should really haul the mail!

 

here is a rear pic of mine.. this was 20 years ago lol

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This sits exactly how I want mine to sit with maybe a little more tire towards the outer fender lip. I would love to see a 15x12 on here. Do you know the BS on the 15x10s you have here?

If you could get me some measurements I may go ahead and start having my rear narrowed, order axles and brakes and wheels. When you get a chance, could you get me the axle flange to axle flange measurement. I read on Corral you said the housing is 47". If you could shoot me the BS on the 10 inch wheels here and what slick you have I think I can get an idea on which BS 15x12 to order. I am looking at some Billet Specialties Street Lite Single or Double Bead Locks. And a set of 17x4.5 up front on a slightly tucked in narrower lower control arm from Racecraft Inc to go with the K-member I need to order.

You asked about my Corral build. Well, I the vert got out of control. I was at the point of having to cut it up and cage it or build a purpose built chassis and swap it all over. I went and bought a 1994 Cobra Coupe and promptly yanked the interior and dropped it off at a chassis shop then ordered a full 12pt Team Z cage, subs, coil relocation mount and some Wolfe mini-tubs along with a Wild Rides S box to replace the upper control arm chassis mounts and lower torque box braces. It's a black coupe and I am swapping in a mostly RED interior I'll go with black carpet, black steering column trim and a black Grant removable steering wheel and some Kirkey Pro Street seats with a custom black and red tweed covers. I would love to have all the chassis and cage work done, rear end narrowed and back together and the new wheels before I come home on vacation in August next.

 

Yea the housing is 47”, and the axles are 2.5” out on each end, so should be 52” axle to axle.

The 15x10s on the car now are 5.5” backspace but a **** hair too close to the inner tub area. 5” backspace would be damn near perfect no matter whAt Wheel width. It has a 29x10 Hoosier on it now.

A 15x12 with 5” backspacing should bring the wheel .5” away from the inside and 2.5” closer to the outside. I’ll probbaly run a 28x10.5w which would lower the car more with just a tire swap

I was thinking some Comp 5 double beadlock wheels from billet specialties. Sexxxyy

I was thinking of being the front wheels in also.

Your new build sounds sweeet!! Gunna make a thread?

 

I like that!! You were 20 years ahead of me. Lol thanks for the post!

 

I can work with ALL those numbers. Thanks. I can find measurements of stock 1994-95 8.8 housings and axles, do a little math and come up with the dimensions I need to fill in for some Moser axles to.

Just checked out the Comp 5. They are choice. At retail only $200 difference each 15x12. And I like the spoke contour better of the Comp 5 front runners more. At least the pics look to have more of a "Cobra R" curve to them. Probably all in $800 more for the set over Street Lites but I like the look.

I am debating a new thread. I really need to. But won't really have much material to start with until the August trip home.

My chassis guy is starting to do cages and fab work full time now so he has started a new company FB page. I told him to use my project as his first album to document his work. So we should have tons of pics where he is showing off his work.

 

Got more time to work on the harness. I ended up just doing wiring the coils off the main section of the harness. I used the clean cut loom and shrink wrap to hold it on.

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I decided to use these 90 degree boots i got for the transducer sensor plugs on the iat and ect sensor.

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The 417 motorsports front end showed up, along with the new anti rollbar.

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So I got the engine harness about done, Just have to join the two banks together and run them into 1 loom and join the transducer sensor pigtails into it all somehow. I ordered the pins and stuff to try and get the rest of it wired up to the firewall.

I numbered the coils and injectors, messed up the #1 coil and injector label so I gotta get new ones lol

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that harness work looks great.

who makes the coil brackets?

Thanks for the help on FB messenger last night. It was great information! It's odd that after all my searching, you can't find a single source with this stuff in it. No guide with part numbers and measurements.

 

What are they quick connect nylon tube fittings in the rear of the intake? A coolant port in the rear coolant passage and a crankcase pressure?

 

GOod eye lol..

I am going to use the one on the coolant port to log coolant pressure and the other for crankcase pressure

 

I like the coolant pressure input idea.

My tuner loves my setup. I have the following inputs on my Dominator ECU. This is extra outside of the oil pressure, fuel pressure, TPS, ECT, IAT, etc
DP backpressure
Merge pressure
Oil temp pre cooler
Oil temp post cooler
Coolant temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator
Coolant temp at the top of the radiator
Water temp on the "in" side of my a/w
Water temp on the "out" side of my a/w
Crankcase pressure
Fuel temp on my "Y" heading to the rails
Ambient temp
Pre intercooler air temp
Post intercooler air temp

Now that I switched to an auto, I will delete a few from above and add in trans temps etc.