The crankcase evacuation. You never want to vent, that technology went out in the 1980's. Pull suction at all times to actually evacuate. especially forced induction to prevent ring flutter and other issues caused by not pulling suction. Ideally at belt driven vacuum pump is your best solution, but they wont last long on the street. On our race engines we pull a constant 14-15" of vacuum using an adjustable vacuum relief valve on the opposite bank we evacuate from. On street boosted we do like this:
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We use intake manifold vacuum to evacuate when not in boost, and the suction developed just in front of the turbo inlets when in boost. The Venturi effect provides that vacuum. The billet checkvalves open and close to automatically default to the strongest suction source available at any given time, and close so no boost can back fill the crankcase. This flushes and removes all contaminates that are part of the blow-by before they have a chance to settle and contaminate the engine oil. It also assits the piston on the downstroke by not allowing pressure to ever build to the point of venting in the first place, and of course reduces ring flutter issues.

 

Thanks for the info on that. I didn't want to run a vacuum pump if I didn't have to .

That seems to be a pretty clean solution to the problem. How well does it work on the street ?

What size hoses do you guys run ? Those don't appear to be huge.

I see you have one run to each valve cover and are using an accumulator tank to plumb into. At least I think that's what I see.

Who's check valves are you running ?

Do you think you could post or e-mail me a sketch of how you plumb it ?

This is exactly why I joined this forum , The wealth of knowledge . Plus people willing to share it and help out.

This is my first go at building a boosted engine so it is a very steep learning curve .

Dave

 

I'll answer in bold after each question above. Excellent questions and well thought out!

Ask more. I am not on very often due to work load, but still enjoy the builds here and the info. I am in my 60's and always soaking up as much knowledge as I can from others that are more knowledgeable in area's I am not.

 

Thanks Tuner Boost !

That is some great info . I was pretty concerned about the crankcase pressure as my previous NA stroker engines have given me fits trying to get them properly vented. I figured it would be worse with the boost added.

Those diagrams are good stuff . They help clear up how the plumbing is routed.

I hear you on the lack of long term reliability on some of these "Tuner Shop " builds . I personally have wondered about the lack of any mention on all the extra required plumbing/ hardware etc. that is needed to support the power . Whenever I hear, " Just bolt it on and go fast " I cringe.

Learning a new thing is my primary reason for this build. I have always been interested in turbo cars but never had the opportunity to build one. Finding this forum and reading through it provided me with the urge to finally take the plunge.

I could use some input on the ignition set up in regards to a baseline for setting up the retard under boost and how to figure the base timing starting point.

I have always built "old school " High compression , big cam , good flowing heads etc. Building for using boost is way out of my wheelhouse and again, the reason I am on here.

Thanks

Dave

 

The problem with understanding proper crankcase evacuation is it has not been taught in automotive tech schools for decades, and dealers don't either. So as most "tuner shops" are staffed by ex dealer techs usually, they have not learned anything on the subject and functions. Just look at all forms of Professional racing. Not a single class in road racing, drag racing, etc. run "vented" or "Breather" systems. Only the tuner shops and basic claimer classes of stock cars (due to rules). All run either belt driven vacuum pumps, or dry sump systems with vacuum modules incorporated into them. Top Fuel the engines are rebuilt every run and the intense blow-by pushes most all of the oil out into a large catch tank, but that's it. All other forms pull vacuum/suction at all times on the crankcase not only for the added power, but to protect that investment as well.

Here is how we do a big power NA engine that runs WOT most of the time in road course cars:

(drysump):

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wet sump:

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Using the area just in front of the throttle body where the reversion pulses do not reach for evacuation suction when accelerating.

On timing, start low. 14 degree's max advance and rich until you can get it on a dyno with wideband and tweak. Many times, depending on if using pump gas 14-16* is all we can get, sometimes as much as 20-22* but this is the danger area. E85 or race fuel gives more leeway. I always believe in leaving a bit of max power on the table in trade for a more conservative tune.

Our drag cars all run either a standalone belt driven 3-4 vane vacuum pump or a dry sump with vacuum pump modules:

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Except for our stock and super stock cars, they have to vent due to rules where a vacuum pump gives an unfair advantage as it was never OEM equipment:

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Good stuff there !

Thanks for the timing info. I figured it would be conservative.

The truck will have wide band O2's on it and will be going to the dyno after we get it running for tuning .

 

Here is the drivers side header and a pic showing the 2 turbo's mounted up .
Now we have to do the blow off valves and the dump pipes .
Then its on to the cold side plumbing and intercooler .
Funny, when I started this project , I thought there was a lot of room under the hood ! LMAO !! #ad
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Nice!!

 

Target 10.5:1 A/F

 

Progress has been a bit slow. To much work and not enough time !!
Here 's the mounted up intercooler with all the inner fenders cut out to make room for the cold side piping.
I managed to keep everything behind the stock grill , just need to fab up a new release handle for the hood latch . That's the only clearance issue left to deal with. #ad
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Here we have the hood temporarily in place an and am waiting for the flatbed to run it up to my exhaust guy .
Going to have the dump pipes bent up and installed along with the waste gates .
Still trying to come up with a good exhaust design. Not sure how loud it will be yet. Just going to hang enough exhaust so that I can stat it up without having it burn up the engine compartment !! #ad

 

Looks great!

 

Love it!

 

Got the exhaust done and run out through the fender wells . Have the intake side done and installed the blowoff valve just before the carb hat. Finishing putting on the waste gates and the O2 bungs. After all the kinks are worked out I will have the hot side ceramic coated . #ad
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Nice job on this build, and thanks for sharing..... I'm about to embark on building a TT setup for my Dakota.... It will be drag only, but I'll need some advice about the crank ventilation, and I'm sure other things as I get into this thing deeper.

 

Hi , thanks for watching the thread. Its been a fun build so far.
Steep ass learning curve on building a boosted powerplant.
This forum is loaded with information and with people willing to answer your questions,

Dave

 

Got the wastegates done and welded in. Now onto the real work. Having to run all the pressure and return lines . Then I get to tear it all down to install all the fittings in the oil pan. #ad
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I wonder how many times its going to come out of the truck before I actually drive it ??

 

I bet just once.

 

Keep the progress pics coming. Love these builds.

 

Excellent work. Welds are beautiful

 

Still hacking away on the truck. Not to much to show in pictures, been just doing a lot of work on figuring out where I am going to be running all the plumbing. Oil feed to the turbo's and the large drain lines to the pan , plus the fuel and return lines . Blechhh.
So I took a day and decided to make something fun for the project. I know its not a good use of my CNC but what the heck. I decided to machine custom fuel line clamps for the fuel and return lines as I couldn't find any I liked that would hold the 5/8" Dia. lines I am using. View attachment 676250 #ad