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5.3 gen 4 what rings and bearings to use??

Discussion in 'LS1, LS2, LS6, LT1, SBC Turbo and other GM Specfic Turbo Tech' started by Jim Crawford, Oct 9, 2017.

  1. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    It says one piston, and one ring set, but a piston has a different part # so I was assuming the description was wrong. I don't think you'll find a complete set of either from GM.
     
  2. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    I'll be at the supernationals. Matt's truck is both a street truck, and he has access to a dyno, so it has a ton of pulls on it.
     
    Jim Crawford likes this.
  3. Jim Crawford

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2017
    I guess I'll just call Summit.
     
  4. xr8tt

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    Helfire or Hastings . Add extra end gap . .026 in mine . No issues 4” bore .
     
    Jim Crawford likes this.
  5. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    Helfire's are tough on bores so i'd personally stay away from them for this type of build, but a good plain cast ring is fine for a budget build, just stay away from moly faced.
     
    Jim Crawford likes this.
  6. Forcefed86

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2005
    Bunch of nonsense in this thread!


    20lbs is nothing on a GEN4 5.3. You absolutely don’t need aftermarket parts for that. Your power goals VS boost are a bit exaggerated. Mild 5.3’s aren’t making more than 350ish crank. You can double that power around 15-17lbs of boost. Drop that number 10-20% based on driveline losses for WHP.


    Most do more harm than good by swapping in new aftermarket parts. Not only that, but most of the time the aftermarket parts aren’t as good as the factory GM parts. New GM parts will send you to the poor house. OEM ring set from GM last I price checked was $276. Zero reason to replace these if you have a healthy engine now.


    IMO…leave the bearings and rings in it if they are in good shape. If it’s a 2010, I can’t imagine they wouldn’t be. These parts are already mated and happy, leave them alone!


    Pull the rings and clean the carbon out of the ring lands. Gap the rings to .022/.024 if you plan on E85. If you plan on pump gas go .026/.028. That is PLEANTY on a 3.78” bore. I routinely run more than 20lbs on factory blocks with a .022 gap. I’ve never butt a piston ring. Even bounced off 30+lbs a time or 2 without issue. (intercooled e85) My new setup is non-intercooled with .022 gaps running E60 or so I’ve run 15lbs or so and it’s fine.
     
    ericwilloughby and Drac0nic like this.
  7. Jim Crawford

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2017
     
  8. RobH152

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2021
    I’m not seeing any non stock moly rings
     
  9. RobH152

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2021
    What stock off the shelf rings are you guys using?
     
  10. Mnlx

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2009
    Most are running the stock used rings. I don't see a plain cast ring for a 5.3 available any longer. It looks like stock replacements are all moly faced. Choices are moly faced iron, or a steel ring. The moly will hold up in most mild to moderate hp builds (stock pistons). If building something serious, move to a steel top ring.
     
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