Sorry Brian, I must have missed this post.

The FP is right off the fuel rail...so 60psi base.

Yes, the FAST XFI turns on the nitrous as soon as it sees 60% TPS and abouve 1800RPM. It turns back off using a AUX port on the XFI that references MAP....so I can essentially turn it off at a desired boost level. Right now the sweet spot is 12psi.

I know a transbrake would be easier....but I like this set up for a few reasons:
1.) Easier on trans....less heat
2.) Lentech was the only guy that made a transbrake with the auto shift feature...it was $1000....and it hard to find.
3.) Roll on the highway......this nitrous setup on the highway is awesome......it hits like a big inch windsor on spray and then rolls way like a turbo car. My only loss from a roll was a UG Lambo....they are in a different league.
4.) Super easy to stage.....just roll in and bring up the RPM's off idle.

I know, the 3400 is a pain....it has all the light stuff....but I refuse to change the seats, brakes, power steering, etc. I like the way the car drives now and hate to compromise.

 

UPDATE for this season:

Trans was shot at the end of last year. It wouldn't shift from 1-2 under WOT...but still even pedaling it was going 5.90. I haven't been able to make a clean pass with the new converter.....so I will still need to confirm its correct.

Updates:

1.) Freshen trans.....just picked it up last night. I wanted to switch to a 2.40 Planet....but due to issues with the one I bought....I will stick with the 2.84 Planet.
2.) Switching from Hoosier 28/10.0 slicks to the Pro Bracket Radial 28/10.5.
3.) Picked up a 1.58 A/R housing for the S484....hoping to reduce some BP.
4.) putting a new set of front runners on.
5.) Considering switching to a 3.73 gear from the 3.27 and putting a spool in it.....the jury is still out on that.

I have a race coming up on June 11th ( Street Car Shootout) that I host twice a year. I plan on testing in early May to get it all squared up.

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New front tires are on.

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Plus got a new heat sleeve for the upper rad hose.

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Looks good Tim! Interested to see what the changes do.

 

Hopefully these changes will get everything sorted out for you. I am curious to see how much mph you will gain with the pro bracket radials but it will be hard to tell with the other changes at the same time. They are supposed to be awesome tires. Good luck!

 

Update - keep in mind it was 88 degrees out.

Hosted a race at the local track. Low turn out....but made it to the finals....but spun and lost.

So, with all the changes I expected to see low 5.70's with a touch more MPH than before.

Best before was 5.87@122.

This time [email protected].

It seems whatever I do to this car its stuck in the 5.90 range.

Differences from last time.

1.) Freshened AODe
2.) New Converter
3.) 1.58 A/R exhaust housing
4.) switch from Hoosier slicks to MT Pro Bracket Radial.
5.) switch from 88mm old school cast S400 to S484 Billet Wheel.


Either way it was fun to run the car and I like the pro brackets. Ran them at 17psi and they were much smoother than the slicks.

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[video=youtube;o8FM0uB3iEo][/video]

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[video=youtube_share;-c01_J9g3nM]http://youtu.be/-c01_J9g3nM[/video]

 

Very nice car! Do you have any good pictures of how your hotside is built?

 

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Update: Took the car out for a 100+ mile cruise. Headed down to Woodward to cruise before it gets crazy (Dream Cruise is this coming weekend)

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Also got some new drag wheels for the front (17" Aluma Stars). These will let me run without spacers with my 13" Baer Brakes.
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Replaced the Power Steering rack this weekend...old one was leaking. What a PITA, had to jack up the motor to get the rack removed and then of course an alignment took me like 2 hours.

Anyways, I'm ready for a local street car shootout.....MM4 Street Car Cruise Shootout.
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Update: had a great time at MM4 Street Car Shootout. 15 cars showed up. Made the 15 mile cruise and then they put us right into the lanes. Lost first round...but had fun. Think I hurt the car.....lost an idler pulley that made the WP and Alt start slipping.....so during WOT it went down to 11.0 volts and 255 coolant temp.

Looks like I have hurt a piston....going to leak it down.

Plans for this winter:

1.) Finally adding an A2A Intercooler
2.) removing the power-steering
3.) switching from mechanical WP to electric.
4.) New Alt bracket....probably the Moroso one.
5.) send out converter to get it tightened.

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You car is looking really good!

 

Got the head off the side that had some dead holes.....This was # 8
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This is what # 6 looked like....so I will put all pistons and confirm they are OK.
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View attachment 671747

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I'm blaming the pulley failure/losing the belt during a pass for causing the destruction.....but regardless I plan to put an intercooler on it...just to cool down the inlets.

Stay tuned

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Ouch! Which pistons are those?

 

Probe pistons

 

What is the ring gap? It could be that it got hot enough the ring ends touched and broke the piston

 

I check the ring gap last time I changed pistons.....and it seemed to have enough.....If I recall correctly it was .028 on the top and 2nd ring.

8 has always been my problem cylinder on this engine. When I lean on it its the first to go. I started to think it was injectors...so I had them flowed....and all were OK. I also pull 2 degrees from CYL 6 and 8 for extra measure since they are the trouble cylinders.

The main reason for the damage was the belt. The data logger so the voltage drop below 11, which shut off the O2 correction, the waterpump stopped turning....so the coolant went to who knows where....(sensor max was 255 and it maxed it) and I was spraying it.

Regardless I am going to check ring gap again.

Got my new (used) pistons today....and bonus they came with rings!
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No coolant flow / rear cylinder and uneven distribution equals failure as seen

Need a few more fail safes [emoji722]

[emoji51]


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