Had a deadhead style regulator, kept fluctuating pressure, return style reg now and it's good. Steady 6psi

 

Ok,
I would start by checking tslot.
Picture will show you the baseline setting. It should be close to this. If its long and overexposed it will cause richness.
If it is overexposed set them correctly. Then start over with your idle mixture settings. Often people start by turning up the idle when they first start on a new carb if it wont idle. They then end up overexposing the tslot, fckin the whole deal up. In fact most of the time it just needs the idle mixture screw adjusted
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/e/ef/Holley_t-fer_slot.jpg

And for a 2nd check, when you pull the carb off , keep it level and look to see if any fuel is dripping off the bottom. If so, you have a leak somewhere.

3rd check, with vehicle running, check that the float level is at the bottom of the site hole. If the float level is too high it will cause the booster to start flowing fuel prematurely.
If you have to take the site plug out, make sure you do it without the hat on. The turbo still pushes enough air that it will blow the fuel out the site hole.

 

When adjusting the idle air bleeds- it makes adjustments so I don't think they are clogged or nothing would happen.
Floats on this spread bore don't have sight holes- it sucks!! But floats are set.
I'll check throttle position

 

Here are pictures of the transfer slots in each bore.

#ad

#ad

#ad

Pretty hard to look at I know! But what do you think?
Put the 6.5 back in, running better again, just does not seem happy- cruise is rich and transition is stupid

 

You have to look at the tslot from the bottom of the carb.

When you say "adjust idle air bleeds" , I think you mean Idle mixture screws.
If they are responding to changes then the t-slot setting is probably okay.
Idle air bleeds are in at the top of the carb.
See this pic, # 1 is idle air bleed # 2 is high speed bleed.
http://image.superchevy.com/f/9591285 w640 h426 q80 re0 cr1 ar0 st0/p158299_image_large.jpg


Idle feed restrictor (IFR) is shown in the pic below with someone using a wire to reduce its area to lean the idle/cruise circuit.
http://image.chevyhiperformance.com/f/8961528/p142756_image_large.jpg

 

check the transfer slot from the bottom of the carb,,,adjust to make them square

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-63-2

use one of these to adjust the secondaries for idle speed

 

I'll take the carb off and check. I do believe I think idle mixture like you stated.

 

Here's the funny thing, If I'm cruising and it's pulling 12 mm hg I'll be 13.5-14:1 afr... If it goes higher or lower than that, it goes rich... I'm not sure why but it happens. Any idea

 

what do you have for a power valve in it??

usually vac gauges read inches of hg

 

6.5 pv with it tightened down a couple threads. May be in hg, my bad

 

Well guys, update, I've been driving the truck a lot lately, and it's running really well, it has its typical carb problems- Rich transition, and some others but overall it's great, I drove it to school with a buddy following me, 13.5:1 afr most of the way, puts 4-5 cars on my stage 3 fiesta st from 40-100, and is dead even with a 2006 6.0 gto with longtubes and exhaust from the same roll. Truck is a blast! So far everything is holding up nice. I threw a new radiator in before coming down to school and while that helped some, temp starts to creep up in traffic. My buddy has some nice shrouded efans that are used a lot in the Volvo world so we are gunna mock those up and try and see if shrouding the radiator helps much- it should, simply filling the space between the radiator and rad support makes a lot more air flow through the radiator. I'll try posting some videos of the truck in action here soon.


@Pro

 

624s, yes. 882s, no. 882s are actually older heavy castings, 624s are newer thin castings, with the extra hole for the right exhaust manifold.

 

Truck runs just fine with the ones I through on... still going strong with the cracked one I through on. Doesn't burn coolant... oil it does but that's from the turbos.
I'm pretty happy with this truck. The only thing I may do now is add watermeth to make it more consistent.
Charge pipes literally get to 170* to the touch- measured with infrared thermo- the underhood temps are crazy... after a long drive, the carb gets very warm too.


@Pro

 

#ad

New fan set up! These are much better than the old setup.



@Pro

 

Lots of cars on the road with cracked heads, every Dodge Magnum 5.9L out there has both heads cracked. This guy FieroX is running in the 9s with both heads cracked. I ran a 350 with a deck crack between cylinders for years, never hurt anything. So it seems it's less about the crack and more about if the crack is causing problems.
I'm reading your thread whenever i can spare dome time, because your truck is so much like my red 87 S-10, we even have thd same front wheels. I'm wondering why your rears are sticking out. I did the Explorer axle swap, every wheel I tried stuck out, so i redrilled the shafts and brakes to the GM lug pattern, intending to try the steel 15x7s off a 4wd s10, but i tried the aluminum 16x8s off my 94 Camaro, they tuck, barely. It looks a little odd when parked, having the 2 different styles of Canaro 16x8s, and i could put 2" spacers up front to run the salad shooters all around, but at speed the difference isn't really noticeable.
I tried a new pair of Chinese 19x10 Corvette copies, those are a perfect fit.

 

I'm not too sure why they poke, they are from a 91 Camaro z/28. E Just a normal 8.8 lol


@Pro

 

If you guys are running a stock width 8.8 it is 4.5" wider than a stock s10 rear IIRC. I have a 8.8 with two short side axels in my S10 and a 15x8 with 5.5bs tucks nice. could go to a 15x10 with 6.5 and it would hang out about a inch. picture of mine for reference.

Best I can do right now Photobucket is acting up

#ad

 

Yup it's an unmodified carrier... I get lots of complements on it tho lol.


@Pro

 

Welp, she's hurting. Yesterday while sitting at a light, I started to accelerate with traffic- not beating on it- and I hear this ticking noise, I go home and check oil and it's fine and it's proceeding to get worse. It is rpm dependent ticking faster with higher rpm.
I'm thinking it's either a collapsed lifter- if the truck sits for a couple days they ticked until oil pressure comes up- or a bearing. Hoping it's not a bearing but I'm leaning more towards that. They are reused stock bearings... and the noise is louder down by the oil pan. Oil pressure is exactly the same as before which makes me not truly know


@Pro

 

Sorry to hear. You had a facebook video earlier I think. Wasnt sure that was you.
Several guys kept saying it was top end.
I disagree.
It is definitely bottom end. The sound is a difficult one to determine though. I have had that same noise be a rod bearing as well has a broken piston. Sometimes with a broken piston, as load increases, so will the noise. Other times, if the skirt is broke or collapsed , the piston will knock.

Let us know what you find.