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UPDATE, . #ad
UPDATE,put the car together so I can drive it a little while saving for paint

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View attachment 669653 View attachment 669654 View attachment 669655

 

Really cool thanks for sharing! More info about the engine and trans combo?

 

FRESH .030 302 (306)
E7 HEADS BIGGER VALVES
ARP HEAD STUDS
PARKER FUNNELWEB INTAKE
QUICK FUEL 750 CFM ANNULAR DISCHARGE BLOW THRU CARB
278/290 471/471 cam
CARTER 110 GPH BOOST REF FUEL PUMP
TWIN T3/T4 HYBRID OIL COOLED BALL BEARING TURBOS
CUSTOM HAND MADE HEADERS
MSD Digital Programmable 6AL-2 Ignition Control 6530
IN CAR BOOST CONTROLLER
GREEDY BLOW OFF VAVES
NEW DISTRIBUTOR
NEW 100 AMP CHROME ALT
FORD RACING 8MM PLUG WIRES
NEW ALUM RADIATOR
NEW 16" ELECTRIC FAN
OIL COOLER
REBUILT C4 TRANS WITH STAGE 3 SHIFT KIT
NEW BOSS HOSS 10" 3000 STALL SPEED CONVERTER
NEW B&M STAR SHIFTER
ALL NEW FRONT SUSPENTION
NEW MASTER CYLINDER
ALL NEW BRAKES
8" FORD REAR END 3.00 RATIO WITH MINI SPOOL
BOSS 429 HOOD SCOOP
NEW SEATS
NEW CARPET
AUTO GAUGE 5" TACH WITH SHIFT LIGHT
BOOST GAUGE

 

Cool looking car.

 

Thank you.

 

Super nice build! Just FYI, that Holley fuel pressure regulator isn't likely to maintain sufficient fuel flow if you decide to turn up the boost. You'd be better off ditching the regulator and boost referencing the mechanical fuel pump directly.

 

They are both boost referenced.it has a jegs 110gph pump on it ,but it is a 10 psi pump. I had to use the regulator so it wouldn't over power the needle and seat. I referenced the regulator so it was able to let the extra fuel in under boost. Will this work, are did I miss something? Thanks.

 

Your reasoning in these modifications makes sense. The problem is that the Holley 12-803 regulator only has a single .220-inch (7/32") orifice through which fuel can flow out to the carburetor. Being that you've boost referenced both the regulator and the fuel pump, you may not have a problem, at least at lower boost settings. However, because of the potential restriction that the 12-803 regulator could create, I'd still be concerned about maintaining sufficient fuel flow through that .220-inch orifice at higher boost settings.

A safer method would be to use a return-style fuel pressure regulator. If you want a budget solution, you could use a Holley 12-803BP regulator and modify it for boost reference in the same manner as you did with the 12-803. The 12-803BP regulator has a significantly larger orifice diameter inside it. Holley doesn't publish this spec any more, but the last time I had one of those regulators apart I want to say it had a .437-inch (7/16") orifice.

If you wanted to use this regulator then you would need to plumb it in the following manner for the most effective use and highest volume of fuel flow available at the needle and seats:

1.) Run the fuel line from the outlet of the fuel pump directly to the fuel log on your carburetor.
2.) Install the regulator on the back side of the fuel log on your carburetor.
3.) Run a .375-inch (3/8") or .500-inch (1/2") return line from the regulator back to the fuel tank.

This is a full-flow fuel system that will insure maximum pump volume is always available at the needle and seats.

 

Thank you for you advice pete, much appreciated.

 

whose wheels? I love those I have AMR TQthrustM on mine but have been looking around

 

I don't know how I've missed this car.. it's a bad looking ride.

 

no joke bad ass ride

 

Love the color you are going with. Bad ass car!

 

Sick build! I've been looking for a fastback torino to build with my dad and this makes me want to look harder. lol

 

yeah I found this thing by accident in a search but man it looks good.

 

Very clean setup.
Makes me want to turbo my 68 stang now
Nice sig also. Yep Ford=shock towers.

 

Thanks man you have no idea how hard it is to not cave to the peer pressure to cut them out. But im not gonna. lol