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1931 Plymouth Model 30 TT SBC Build

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by TT31Plym, Nov 27, 2015.

  1. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    Ok fixed no helicoils needed.. Did a little manipulation to the oil feed fitting and made it work. It's never coming off though. Anyway fired the motor naturally aspirated and everything seemed a-okay. Gotta finish my tests then I'll hook the turbos up. I'll post some videos soon too.
     
  2. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    Got it running for a bit today and man is it loud. Gonna have to get some mufflers. Feels good to have it running, now I want to see some boost and get her on the road
     
  3. 73 nova

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    What kinda muffler are you looking into?
     
  4. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    I think I'm going with some ~18" resonator type mufflers that I'll aim straight down replacing the downpipe. It's not quite as loud as I originally thought (I had only heard it in the garage till today) and I think something like this http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sch-183535 will do the trick. The chassis sits low and the suspension is still too soft for 3.5" pipes running up under the frame rails so I think this my only option, plus it's cheap!
     
  5. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    Made boost today! Edlebrock carb has been PAINLESS to tune under blow thru... I'm honestly shocked. Anyway here's a crappy video, still needs some more tuning and timing tweaks but it drives/ pulls! [video=youtube_share;jMo06NoXHoA]https://youtu.be/jMo06NoXHoA[/video]
     
  6. TurboMerc

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2015
    Yeah buddy!
     
  7. mopar_man

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2015
  8. 73 nova

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    Little more tuning and it should run real good. Keep at it.
     
  9. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    That's the hope. By the way anybody have experience with running a wideband close to your dp exit? I'm getting a pretty lean idle reading (17ish) but I'm starting to think it's because my o2 is so close to the regular atmosphere already and the complete lack of back pressure would give it a lean reading. I'm adding some mufflers soon which will give me my answer but it seems like that's the case. As I get into the gas it richens up pretty quickly to the point where it's at about ~12 at WOT, my next problem seems to be common though- watching the 02, oil pressure, and boost when you're hammering it is a challenge haha!
     
  10. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    Okay so finishing up my final two tests today and tomorrow and felt like a break from studying so a little update- Realized the placement of my O2 is definitely the reason for my lean reading, so I bought a couple bends and am going to add as much pipe as possible while staying under the fender, the pipe is simply too big to run under the frame without heavy modification so I'm not gonna bother. Won't be able to really tune it until I get that figured out but for now looking at the plugs/ listening to the motor is what I'm sticking with. I get home tomorrow and will make some progress with timing to get it liven up though, I think my mechanical advance limiter is too big, thus I'm not getting enough advance/ losing a lot of power. I'll keep y'all updated
     
  11. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    Been having fun with the car, until suddenly I feel a ton of power loss and it's sounding weird. I pull the driver side valve cover and all but one rocker arm had vibrated loose. My first thought was "wow I'm an idiot for not tightening the nuts, then I took a closer look at the studs and they're all pulled up a solid 1/4". So the heads gotta come off and go to the machine shop :swear: I might have my guy toss in better valve springs and machine the rocker stud base so I can toss a legitimate cam in the thing. But for now it's sidelined, I bet for a couple weeks
     
  12. 73 nova

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    That sucks. I've always pinned stock studs. Simple fix just not cheap.
     
  13. flyinhillbilly

    Joined:
    May 8, 2006
    That was what we always did in my dirt track days. Rules said no screw in studs, didn't say anything about pins.
     
  14. 73 nova

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    I'm
    Racing is how well you read and interpret the rules. Dad had a dirt car growing up and I learned a lot with it.
     
  15. flyinhillbilly

    Joined:
    May 8, 2006
    Smokey Yunick said "you don't race cars, you race the rule book" I couldn't agree more. Smokey is one of my heros.
     
  16. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    So after some diagnosis and time to think to balance my options, I just went with a new set of aluminum heads with some 7/16 studs and stronger springs. Picking them up Monday or Tuesday so I'll get back together by the weekend id say.
     
  17. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    By the way because the heads I'm getting have a normal intake bolt pattern I freshened up an old Edelbrock performer to go with them. Came out better than the previous intake imo. This manifold isn't port matched yet so that'll get done once the paint is cured.
    image.jpeg #ad


    image.jpeg #ad
     
  18. 73 nova

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2011
    I have a small single plane I'd sell cheap for this project. It's an old street dominator from holley and it would work better than that one. I'm all about using what you have on hand though.
     
  19. flyinhillbilly

    Joined:
    May 8, 2006
    X2 I think you'd be better off with a single plane.
     
  20. TT31Plym

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    I could see myself picking it up a little down the road, I want to get the car on the road asap however and I'm so so poor right now after getting those heads haha, I agree though the single plane is 100% the way to go
     
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