I'm seeing 10psi on the gauge but it's holding steady there, I wasn't looking at the afr as close as I needed to be because I was worried about it boost spiking again. It feels like more tire speed and less forward motion, so it's making more power, right? I've got video, I'm gonna try it again in a few minutes.

 

With the meth on, it's breaking up and being all assy again. Afr still says 12's under boost until it starts being a jerk. I turned the meth off and I'm gonna give it another try in a few minutes.

 

What the actual f**k? It's still being shitty. Fat, breaking up, black smoke, you guys know...I'm gonna try the 5psi spring and see, but I have another idea to throw out there. What if the toothpicks weren't blocking the hsab's 100% and now the solder is? Just a thought, I'm gonna try the 5 psi spring and see what happens.

 

5psi spring back in it and it's better but still backfiring and shooting smoke. I've got clear, in focus video of the last run. I'll get it up when I get home. Shit. You. Not. It didn't act like this with the toothpicks in it, it almost has to be the difference between toothpicks and solder, doesn't it?

 

It left a bunch more tire on the ground, that's for sure. And the stutter is back. The only differences between yesterday's video and today's is solder in the secondary hsab's and the waste gate signal lines are now T'd together to one boost reference (the hat) because I had to rob a port for the meth. Meth is currently off. I'm thinking I'll melt the solder out of the hsab's and try a piece of.027 welding wire in there and see what happens. I can go to .030 if it makes any difference.

What say you fellas?

 

ARRRRGH....Do you have any more hsab that are unmodified to put toothpicks in?

 

Get back to what worked, and go from there.

 

great.....glad you go it sorted out!!!!

Just make sure your primary main jet area + PVCR is approximately equal to your secondary main jet area....along with your primary hsab area being approximately equal (or plugged) with your secondary hsab area for distribution purposes.

 

Thats what I been saying lol. Loving the video what's up with the hole in the hood? Do you have a pin vice and small bit set ? If so drill then the smallest size and work up till you get it where you like it.

 

Nope. But it wont take a second to un-modify the ones i have. I've even got more toothpicks.

Experience suggests I shouldn't go so far as "sorted out" but I think I'm really narrowing it down.

I looked back a this thread and everything from about page 12 to now falls under "shit's broke". Damn. Thanks for sticking around.

 

I know. That's why that was forefront in my mind, along with Forcefed86's "you sure the toothpick blocked 100% of the ..." You gotta understand my rationale, for all I still know, blocked=working. So I blocked it more better. We'll see what happens with the wire....

 

Just keep the video coming lol I'm feening boosted s10 burnouts!

 

You got it!

 

Face it dude, you're stuck with us........you're gonna get her sorted, you're almost there.....it's getting so that between you and "The Grenade" thread you can't help but to support the project.

 

Instead of melting out the solder just get something tiny like a .020 bit and drill a hole in the solder. Could raising the boost level be opening the PV sooner? I'd almost want a solenoid with a boost switch. That way you command when the PV opens. Guess work stinks! If you ordered a cheap grainger 12v solenoid and adjustable hobbs boost switch, you could set the PV to start opening at any boost level you wanted. Would take the guess work out of playing with PV spring rates.

Sounds like you need more PV enrichment and less jet so you can get rid of the stumble.

 

Have you looked at the plugs yet?
And is it possible tht your meth system is siphoning into the engine? I'd probably block the meth hose and swap plugs before I went too far.

 

Not to interrupt the tuning, but in looking for a good deal on another 6530 box for MY S10 truck, I found this: Blaster HVC II Coil, he's asking $135 shipped

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Same deal I found on mine,

 

It can't hurt grab that up

 

Sorry, yesterday got taken up with other errands. We had to drive out and pick up my buddy here and bring her home.
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So I didn't get to truck at all. I'm gonna try to get something done on it today.

The reason I'm thinking wire first is a .020 hole is about 65% of the original hsab size, I'm almost sure the toothpicks were blocking more than 1/3 of the area. If I put a .023 bit of welding wire down it, I've only left .007-.010. If I need to I can throw some.030 into it and probably block a big percentage of the bleed. Just thinking...Also, the same rich backfire was happening even when I put the 5psi springs back in the wastegate....

I haven't yet, but I don't think the meth is siphoning. I've got the tank mounted under the bed so I've got a solenoid in the engine compartment that's closed when the pump is off to keep the fluid from running back to the tank. That all worked when I checked it putting it back together. Doesn't mean it works now.

Thanks for that!

And speaking of "it worked yesterday" I went to move the truck this morning and either the O2 sensor or the gauge itself seems to have shit the bed. It just flashes 16.0 at me no matter what the throttle is doing. I cycled power a few times and it didn't help. It worked yesterday at 6pm.

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What is the size of your primary and secondary HSAB?.....Most of mine have ended up being in the 0.021-0.028 range for E85 and gas carbs (E85 usually smaller for my stuff).