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Old 305 that I was gonna boost

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our afr sometimes changes from about 14 to 13 when shifting from park to gear

check your transition slots

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Keep us updated on that ebay turbo Im interested on going that route myself hope to get atleast a year of use.

 

Added timing to the car and she woke up nicely. Idle and cruise are fine right now. Still haven't got after it wot for any length of time due to total timing concerns. I found a guy who makes 10* bushings for MSD's. I will install it next week and should definitley keep me under 30* all in. Buick305 I will post the pic of the crossover/merge tomorrow.

 

Thanks jjdawz

 

Well here is a pic of the car, and a pic of how I am going to route the piping long term if everything works out...keeping my fingers crossed. #ad


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Nice car jjdawz

 

thx... hopefully she'll be a runner again. I'm getting close!!

 

Just an update: worked out most of the bugs. Whoever, said it was not lying. " This turbo stuff is addictive." There is simply no direct comparison to a NA motor. The torque is simply unreal. I have been talking to my buddies and other car guys in the area about the setup at the local cruises and spots. Many people don't believe me when I tell them that this setup is stronger than the big block that came out. The car has gone from a radically cammed big block that had about 8 inches of vacuum to a relatively smooth idling small block w 20" of vacuum. The car sounds relatively mild, yet it pulls like a freight train. Until I experienced it first hand, I wouldn't have believed that you could make a small block pull this hard either. I'm just glad that I took the plunge; I really don't think I can go back after this.

 

Awesome car.

About what rpm does this spool at? How high have you wound it so far? I'm really curious about that A/R on the exhaust side. PaulF ran a .68 I think it was on a 5.3 with good results.

 

And yeah, once you put that boost needle in the positive side of the scale you're a junkie.

 

My best guess, I'd say it spools around 2600. With the 3:73's. I usually cruise around 2200-2400 and everything is normal (18 inches of vacuum). However, when I hit the pedal, Man..this thing is a handful. Trying to look at the gauges is a little unsettlling. A couple nights ago I had my wife and daughter out with me a local cruise night. On the way home, they read they gauges while I "drove" us home. As far as winding it up...twice so far... once last night after I added 2* of timing. I don't know the afr numbers but 2* made a noticiable amount of difference. I actually have this question out there on another thread but maybe someone here can answer this: The other night when I got a WOT reading I was in the 10's for afr with the w/m kicked in (375 ml nozzle). My timing was 12 initial/ 14 mechanical and running a vacuum advance. I bumpped up the timming figuring since I was so rich I had some wiggle room. Now I am at 14* initial and 14* mechanical for a total of 28.* I have been trying to be cautious since this is my first experince with a turbo. I have neither the time or money to break down again. I haven't looked at the afr gauge yet with the 2* added, but the car seemed to like. It feels lighter/ stronger all throughout the powerband. With the w/m injection, is 28* of total timing in the ball park for running safe at 9.5:1? Does it make sense to add timing to try and bring the AFR down if possible?

 

The timing mark on the ground strap I the plug is a great way to tell where you're at timing wise. There are some good charts on the internet on how to read plugs.

 

Flyinhillbilly, I just read your post on both threads. Thanks for the response. I took the plugs out about a weeek ago and realized that a had a fouled plug. Had a bad wire that I didn't know was bad. besides that, plugs looked decent from my limited plug reading experience: all were a light brown in color, not white, or dark with carbon. I am wondering however what you mean by the "mark" on the ground strap. What Iam I looking for? In the past I have only paid attention to the color of the plugs.

 

There will be a blues line on the ground strap that will show you how far it's annealed. Ideally you want it about the middle of the bend on a boosted engine.

 

http://www.bing.com/search?q=how to read spark plugs&src=IE-SearchBox&FORM=IE10SR

some good info

 

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Here's a pic I grabbed off the net. You can see the mark pretty clearly in this pic, try to get that mark in the middle of the bend and you should be good to go.

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Great work, very similar setup to mine! Mine is also a 350 inch engine, and it seems to make a ton of power considering it was only about 300 HP NA. Do like mine and setup a mount for a camera to watch your gauges while you drive then you can re-play it later to see how it was running.

 

Now that's datalogging LOL

OP - I tried a T3 on a 327 and it drove great and dynoed bad. It was a little larger on the exhaust side and smaller on the compressor side than yours which might have caused the issue. It was a stock BorgWarner off from a 6BT Cummins in a log skidder, it was free and in great condition. But on 6 consecutive dyno pulls at 36-3700 the torque and HP fell off a cliff. The curve was as close to vertical as I've ever seen on a curve. Basically it was choking tremendously. But to drive it was unbelieveable. In 1500RPM bursts it was a blast on the highway and it took about 1/2 second to be in boost. If I started the bust at 3K it would run great to 4500 and then fall. But like I mentioned, on the dyno from 2000 or so it was done by 3700. It was a tad disappointing, but not too much as I'm as green at this as you are.

I swapped to 76mm T4 (Ebay) unit with .96 exhaust A/R which does spool later but lifts the bumper about 5 inches when it hits. Hopefully we'll have it to the dyno soon.

Your description of how your SBC turbo build runs is exactly how I describe ours. It is absolutely unbelieveable. I've caught myself stumbling for words to describe how it runs.

 

64nailhead have any pics of ur setup?