Put a 90 degree thru the hood

Turbo looks badass!

 

The true street rules say it must exist behind the firewall. I wonder what they would do if you showed up with a pipe that stuck out of the hood and made it past the firewall and turned outwards. Passenger would just have to make sure to keep their window shut!

 

Lol....
I'm staying with a 4" downpipe, the plan to use a 5" is too complicated. It would involve making a channel on the strut tower and the firewall which will break the rules.
Sometimes I wonder if the switch to twins would have been a better idea lol

 

I don't see anything in the rules where is says you cannot notch the shock tower, but it does say a stock firewall. It does say a stock frame. All of the other NMRA classes allow you to notch the shock towers as needed, but must maintain the stock location.

CHASSIS/FRAME: Stock-type chassis, permitted. Stock firewall & stock front frame rails must be
in stock location and unmodified. Starting at firewall rearward, floor and chassis may be replaced
with aftermarket components.

Other class blurbs I have been directed too
FIREWALL
Stock,
unaltered
firewall
is
required.

 

I would think welding holes shut for safety purposes is a non issue....cutting large sections out and remaking it for a downpipe is probably not a good idea.

 

Yeah thats why I'm not going to mess with it and leave it 4" dp.

 

Guess Mr Mike did not notice. The truck that won this weekend had the firewall moved back about 4". He had a nice little area cut out and formed around the motor. Just goes to show how much people really pay attention.

 

My plan after the hotside was to address a ignition problem that I noticed in Bradenton when I started to turn the shift point up. I could hear the pinging in the car before the shift change but never heard it in the vids til yesterday at the shop. After SBSO, I took a drive to pbir for some testing. On the vid of my first/only 1/4 pass, I noticed the high rpm miss on the shift change and the top of the 1/4 mile too.

There has been a known issue with the epm and high rpm timing errors (thanks to Cal for finding that). Which I think has been the demise of Kiko's motor for some time. He shifts at 76-7800 so imagine how jacked up his timing is up top.

My plan was to unstall one of Cal's 12 tooth wheels with a modified epm. But after some thought I have decided to switch to a much newer ecu, that has all the bells and whistles. More to come on that.....

I dont want to run the car until I fix this problem so it looks like no Bowling Green for me.

I will post the vid later so you guys can hear the miss.

 

The EPM works for what it is. I originally started out with one on my N/A 408. It's been a while now since I have been in my AEM stuff, but I there is a channel to monitor that you will see the errors. My view is....anything that spins over 6250 with the coils needs a crank trigger and a EPM...and not a 4-magnet MSD one either. Look at every new vehicle out there. How many teeth do they have on their crank trigger wheels? You need resultion for doing what we do with these cars. ESP if you are doing any cylinder trims.

You will be very Happy Alex

 

Honestly---I am not Jimmy tech inspector. It is only when someone is doing something blatantly idiotic would I say something.

If there was real money it would be a different story.

That truck was all cut up under the hood.

 

Am I missing something? or is that not blatent enuf? Was that firewall stock???

My point is, people do what they want anyhow. It's really no different than your situation last year.

As far as I am concerned with true street and rules. Let the tire and the 3-runs be the limiting factor. I don't really care what they cut or move.

 

I meant that I am not interested in raising it. You could have if you wanted to. No question it is illegal.

 

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Dats some serious headers! nice!

 

Thanks, he started working on the other side yesterday. I want to get it running so I can make it to a cruise to the keys coming up.
Then under the knife again for a new ems and engine wiring.

 

What is the thickness on those tubes?

 

Its 304L sch10, can't remember what thickness it is.

 

That works. Thanks.

 

Its heavier than the conventional ss most use. My fab guy likes to use that in a street car app. Once finished I'm going to compare weight with the b&g hotside i had before

 

I think it's a great idea.

I came up with a plan for my next setup to use some LS truck manifolds, and fabricate up some flanges to go from my Hi Ports to the round ports on the LS stuff. Then I'll just mill off the flanges and weld the new ones on. Then on the other side, I'm planning to cut that flange off, and then use some thick stuff (like what you have) to go to the V band/turbos. I think the nice thick, cast steel stuff will work perfect, plus give me a lot of extra room, compared to building a set of headers. I'm going to mount the turbos down low, at the back of the engine. Near where a set of shorty headers would normally mate with the H pipe.