SN95
stock 302 shortblock, flycut. trw forged slugs. pistons .110 thick @ thinnest point due to flycutting. very tiny spot that is that thin.
~9.5 compression
canfield 195's
xe258 (208/216 ~.550 lift)
165/420 springs
single plane efi
90mm tb
LMAF
tko600
3350 race weight

LT's with 3in bullets
4.30's
narrow 26in DR

went 12.9 @ 115 on 2.0 60' with a 224/242 ~.600 cam
xe258 went 13.4 @ 109 with a better 60', but clutch air gap was nill and couldnt get into 2nd on any run.

I dont bring it to the track much, but i like to joy ride around town and get some thrills.
nitrous doesnt quite fit into this equation.

what turbo would be recommended?
can i get away with an inter-cooler on 93 pump?
i live in Louisiana. (100* summers, high humidity, sea level)

I will be fabbing up the piping myself. Single turbo.
stock exhaust manifolds will be used.
i have the stock 3.27's if i had to swap them in.

right now the engine makes 380bhp or so with the little cam. (~325rwhp)
Looking for another 100-150 rwhp and keep the rpm 6k or below so i dont split it.

Thoughts?

 

Personally, I'd go with a p-trim 60-1. It's an older design but I like it. Will make all the power that stock block can handle and should be ultra fun on the street. Get a tuner you can trust and yes you can do it on 93 octane.

 

i have a tweecer, which is why the car runs now. im actually enrolled for a tuning class to learn more.

i dont want to have a bunch of back pressure, so will a .68 a/r be ok or do i need a larger exhaust side?

 

Unfortunately, that's almost impossible to say. One of the things about the turbo I suggested is that it's available with a BUNCH of different exhaust housings, all the way from .61 to 1.52. Personally, I think I'd go 1.00 or 1.15 divided, and leave the pipes from each bank separated all the way to the housing. This will deliver exhaust energy to the turbine much more efficiently, improving spool as well as reducing back pressure.

 

it seems that unless you have deep pockets you are on your own for a hot and cold side.

keep in mind, i will be using a new ac only stick machine. so no aluminum welding if i can help it.

what material can i use, hot and cold?
how thick?
what sizes pipe ID should i be using?

im trying to get a tentative price this is going to run me.

 

well i just ordered my first turbo from VSRacing.
denmah kit with the 69mm Compressor, 77mm Turbine, and 1.05AR t4 divided housing.

 

Good choice. Keeping the stick? A little more cam would be nice with that turbine but what you have will work.

 

yes, i love the thrill of shifting... if i make into the gear lol
i have a larger cam...but its BIG for a lower rpm and 3.00 stroke.
224/242 .603/.590

 

Yeah, I saw that one. It's definitely to big lol.

 

will stock flipped shorties, 2.5 x over pipe, and 3in downpipe be ok?

 

may want to go smaller with the x over tubing to keep the exhaust velocity faster

 

so 2in would be better suited?

im trying to minimize lag and top-end back pressure at the same time lol

 

Yes, 2" is best and can still support high hp goals. Backpressure results from turbine choke I.e: too small housing and wheel diameters.
The exhaust will get to the wheel faster with smaller pipe, takes longer with larger pipes... but if the opening is too small for your volume, u get choke regardless of piping size

 

Can I merge the 2in from each bank into a single 2in then into turbo?

 

It would be better to merge the two pipes together in a Y. You can buy a 2 inch merge if you don't have the tools to make a merge like that..

 

I can. Just want to make sure the single pipe would not be a restriction.

 

The 2 inch pipes will be fine, Merge them together and run a short piece of 2.5 or 3 to turbo flange. Or make them merge right at the flange.


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in response to your original post, yes the 3.27 gear would probably be better out back. the denmah kit works great for 4.6-5.3 budget builds, good choice. try to minimize the amount of silicone couplings in your cold side setup, having the ability to weld should make that easy. inexpensively, the e or f cams from ford racing are both able to support your horsepower goals and are both turbo friendly. good luck with your build!

 

this is the area im working with... seems like alot until i put that HUGE freakin turbo in there.

i need some ideas. i need to keep a/c. that means the downpipe absolutely will not fit over the top of the pass side manifold since the drier is in the way.
its going to have to go under the manifold.

im planning to take the pass side from the stock position and have it go under the bell/pan area and through the engine mount area (2in just fits through) and up to the turbo.

i was hoping to put a 4in DP on it... but i guess 3in will suffice and wont hurt spool too much. if i put a 90* bend right after the outlet, how much performance am i going to lose?

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My old set up was a Windsor in my 95 cobra..
The way you have that upside down manifold will not work.
I had a 3 inch down pipe running beside passenger valve cover. And with some work could have fit a 3.5..
The a/c drier can moved to a different area or start lightly sweaking lines till it will clear DP better..