Or as a second option;
What exactly can I do to the A833 to make it handle the torque load of the turbo setup? I do not want to invest in an $800 clutch and have the transmission wiped out on the first pass down the strip. Thinking liberty gear sets, but not sure if even those can handle the power at 10# and be reliable. I have a rebuild kit I purchased from Brewers performance, but still contemplating if that is even worth getting into if I plan to change it over.

Only option is a 727 conversion. I could probably sell my setup pretty easily and afford a real nice 727 to handle the boost. I know I would need an external transmission cooler setup and driveshaft change to run this. Would definitely run a manual valve body, maybe a cheetah shifter.

Whats everyone's thoughts?

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Or as a second option;
What exactly can I do to the A833 to make it handle the torque load of the turbo setup? I do not want to invest in an $800 clutch and have the transmission wiped out on the first pass down the strip. Thinking liberty gear sets, but not sure if even those can handle the power at 10# and be reliable. I have a rebuild kit I purchased from Brewers performance, but still contemplating if that is even worth getting into if I plan to change it over.

Only option is a 727 conversion. I could probably sell my setup pretty easily and afford a real nice 727 to handle the boost. I know I would need an external transmission cooler setup and driveshaft change to run this. Would definitely run a manual valve body, maybe a cheetah shifter.

Whats everyone's thoughts?

 

Talk to Jamie at Passion Performance before you do anything. He'll be straight with u about the stick options. Fwiw you're gonna have issues with a 727 as well at that power level.

 

Like what?

 

Well it was nice meeting you too, On your transmission dilemma I mention my thoughts but cost between the two are so close it's all in what you want a 727 transmission needs up graded drum and input shaft if you go with a trans break but the stock internals will hold foot breaking it and it's easier on parts so check out parts pricing shifter 300 for a cheata,500 to 1000 for converter 250 for valve body 200 for bolt in sprag 75 for transmission cooler plus lines and fittings plus transmission core and the drive shaft will work it's the same as the 4 speed shaft.

 

Well, I was planning on selling my entire transmission setup as a kit outright. Bellhousing, Z-bar assembly, Clutch pedal assembly, Hurst shifter assembly, linkage, bellhousing, SFI billet steel flywheel, Centerforce DFX clutch, and the A833 with a brewers rebuild kit. In reality, only looking for a 700HP 727 as I don't plan to beat up on it at the strip, but I want something to last with a good, healthy amount of street miles and the occasional 'spirited' driving moments. I love driving the car, I have probably put a few thousand city miles on it in the past year or two; which is a pretty good bit for a car like this which only gets 8-10MPG on the interstate, going through about 7-8 gallons a day at Daytona this year driving back and forth from the speedway.

 

If you don't need consistency to bracket race I sure wouldn't pull a stick out of any mopar...

 

Did that once.A week later the stick was back in it.

 

If the A833 could hold the power, I wouldn't sell it. In my case, I would rather get $1,500 for the setup than be out $1,500 attempting to 'bomb proof' this four speed that requires a $800 clutch replacement every year or so. I can build a healthy 727 for $1,500. Local builder wants $675 for a rebuilt HP 727, has a turbo action RM VB for $100. Looking at budget converters for the time being on the used market (9" 3500-4,000). Will toss in a SFI flexplate, transmission shield or blanket, and a shifter; calling it a day. Not sure if a billet steel drum is worth the money at the moment, as the car wont be drag raced just street driven.

 

Trans guy has one year warranty on trans and converter. Will do $750 for a built 727 with reverse manual VB installed. Going to figure out converter pricing now, says it should be around $500 for a custom 10" converter with anti-ballooning plates. Trying to get everything priced and figured out.

 

Check out Dynamic Converters. I was looking at a custom converter at one point and was going to get their 9.5" street/strip custom built one. Price was around $575 IIRC, before shipping. Good luck!

 

Well, got with the trans guy. He said he uses Transmission-Specialties, in which he quoted me $620 for the converter (spragless 10" with anti-ballooning plate, good for 850HP). Said if we custom order, it will be out the next day to him. So, I am looking at $1375 for the trans setup, just need a shifter. He recommended the Hurst Quarter Stick. He said that the Turbo Action (cheetah) shifter was designed after this, and the Hurst is a better financial option for $120 less. I still like the pistol grip version, I may pump out a little extra dough for that one. Like I said, he said a one year warranty on both the transmission and converter when ordered from him. I can't beat that anywhere else.

 

Have two buyers at $1,500 for my trans setup. I won't be out much with the Auto conversion, and hopefully have a 'grenade proof' transmission that lets me enjoy the car without worry.

 

That's a good deal can't go wrong with that now just do the labor LOL!

 

Yeah, I was surprised at the price it seems very reasonable. It will take me a day or so just to pull the old transmission and get everything that goes with it out of the car. Going to have to clean all of that, and get everything ready for shipment next week. I am ready to just be done with the car for a bit and give it and myself a rest.

 

Do some research on the spragless converter. I seem to remember that there are varying opinions on whether to run them on the street...

 

Well, I did some research as I didn't know much about 'em to begin with. I have always dealt with manuals, other than my ford AOD in my foxbody which ran a TCI nitrous 10" 3,000 converter that was like night and day in performance from the factory converter. Trans guy said the car would run faster with a sprag, but I have read online that it is safer to run without a sprag and it's just one less part to fail. I don't think heat will be too much of an issue, attempting to find the largest transmission cooler possible that will fit.

 

Just ordered an art carr-winters performance shifter. Have heard nothing but good things about them.

 

Your drive shaft should work. I just did a 4 speed to auto swap on my 63 and the trans lengths were the same and take the same slip yoke.

I was told once that a turbo car will make more hp with a stock cam than a big NA cam. Overlap means everything.

 

Yeah, I know. One step at a time on this turbo build. I got to have a little bit of lope that comes with the heavy overlap. I really am at a point where I would have to seriously lower the CR and run a low overlap (230-240* @ .050/112-114LSA) as it will increase cylinder pressure or keep my big N/A bumpstick and have it drain a few pounds of boost but keep my cylinder pressure in a remotely pump gas friendly range with 10:1CR. Pump gas is my limiting factor here, once I get water/meth into the picture I am sure I could get an easy 8-12# out of this pump fuel combo. That should make enough power to come close to splitting the block or having crank walk regardless, so why bother changing a camshaft to get to the same point? I completely agree that the camshaft is wrong, but is my logic flawed?

My goal is low 10's to high 9's out of a streetable combination, with this new trans setup and if I can make 800 honest crank HP I believe it could easily be a 9 second car @ 135+MPH in street trim on 30x12.5 ET Streets. Car has a locker, 4.10 gearing, aftermarket axles, 3" studs, draglites, Mickey Thompson sportsman fronts on 4" wheel, 30x12.5 ET Streets rear on 8" wheel, chassis stiffening/frame mods, super stock suspension, 90/10's on front/c-body shocks on rear, and a lot of fiberglass. Six pack hood weight is about 15#. Front and Rear bumpers weigh around 5-8# each. Aluminum heads, intake, waterpump housing. Harwood fuel cell. Manual steering and brakes. Baer rear disc brakes and SSBC discs on the front. Car is set up directly out of the mopar 9th edition chassis manual. Only thing the car doesn't have is a cage as it is primarily a street car. I am guessing the car weight is around 3,500# maybe less. ET calculator says I need around 800HP to run a 9.7 in the 1/4.

 

Your next thing is is going to need is a gear change. Turbos like load at lower rpm to make touque. Your driveability will greatly improve also
Your car needs to be looked at as a package with parts that go together. Not at parts you want' to us. When you got boost you throw the old rules and limits of power out the window