I did a leak down test, everything looked good. Plugs look rich. This setup has been like this for years. IDK how many times I have to say it, it's a low compression pump gas motor with meth. No melted pistons. I'm sure it would of put more power down if the compression was higher. Here's a vid of the FP going up on the footbrake.. don't mind the A/F I got that fixed with a 8.5 pv. [video]http://s22.photobucket.com/user/Slowmanc5/media/leanout.mp4.html[/video]

 

Not necessarily just the boost in the hat, you'll also have about 2 more volts powering the pump when it's running too,

 

You need to take a step back for a second and think about what is going on here. You start the thread because the car is much slower than it should be. A couple of things you bring up throw up immediate red flags to people who only deal with forced induction, and you shrug it off.

So what exactly do you want?

 

What I'm I shrug off.. the people that are telling me it's got melted pistons?? Steve Morris runs 36 degrees, 35 PSI 13.0 AFR Q16 110 degrees on motors. It's all about the COMBO... have you ever owned a forced induction car with this kinda combo ?? I don't think soo.. I'll I was wondering is if the trap seemed low for this setup... I was also wondering about why FP was going up so high on the footbrake.

 

I would say call this guy he may be able to help, very good with these combos 231-747-7520.

 

Once I get my hands back on the car ill try fixing the bog and get it to the track. I'll record the run and post back .

 

A couple thoughts

FPR needs to be connected before carb (I place mine in the hat). Seeing 14psi of fuel pressure footbraking makes me think you have it connected to vacuum - or your BOV is closing allowing 7-8lbs of boost.

Do you have a regulator that is more than 1:1 ratio? that will also cause a much larger increase in psi

Nothing wrong with 30some timing and a Procharger. Just check tune/test/ and look at heat mark on plug strap to gauge where it should be.

Blowing through the converter? If it is pulling strong on the top end and NOT blowing through the converter - Did you make any change to the combo or tune that would place the HP about 75 lower?

 

FPR is connected to the hat. I think you are on to something with the bypass valve closing causing the fp to go up... Probably why I have that bad bog at full throttle.... Yes the regulator is 1:1. Think I should put a boost gauge on the hat to see how much it's get before 0 vacuum? Nothings changed with the combo, I got to get the car back to the track and record a run. I could test the bypass valve with a hand vacuum pump?

 

You could use a mighty vac to see when it starts opening then compare to on car vacuum. The BOV should be connected to manifold vacuum not ported. Under carb or baseplate.

 

Yes it's connected to manifold vacuum.

 

are you sure the dyno is legit?