The big line out at 95lb/min is the compressor speed. That turbo edges out the map at 65% at a pressure ratio of 3.4 and a flow of around 87lb/min or about 960hp worth of air. That's over 35 PSI boost level. At that pressure ratio you're talking about ~125lb/min being optimal. At a pressure ratio of 2.0 you're talking about ~72lb/min with this engine. Very rough banging it out but regardless, this engine way outclasses this turbo especially since you can't "extend" its usefulness with a chilled water.

 

It may not be efficient, but that comp will flow well over 90lb/min. It just needs a turbine to match.

I do agree though, the twin screw guys got the shaft with these rules. Stock throttle body and a 750lb weight penalty?? WTF??

 

I have an idea the rules will be changed quickly after the first race. I spoke to one of the rule writers and there thoughts are mechanical failure is the limiting factor and they are wanting a mid 8 class by the end of the season.

I suspect it will be close to high 8's the first or second race.

Big compression on that small turbo may work with the right fuel. Unfortunately the C16 is great but not the best for that combo.

SO I will probably build a 10-10.5 compression motor so I can change setups when the rules change. This may limit some on the first set up but allow for less spending to change later if need.

As far as the NOS goes a 6an with twin 400 shots an ""NO ECU limits"" will make for a contender.

 

The OEM block is not going to take it...

 

The OEM block can be unlimited modified. Sleeving is allowed.

 

That is not going to stop it from splitting in the valley,like all they do .

The stock OEM blocks will support 850/1000rwhp give or take on turbo cars, 8.99 Is the best that I seen @155ish mph

The N2O car is a total different animal...

The N2O hits hard of the hole, not forgiving the bottom end.<N2O back fires are also a bitch>
Blower cars is all linear power <put all the stress on the crank snout>
The Turbo car leaves softer and hits harder on the top <were they all break>

The best option for your N2O application will be Ford Racing Block if you can get one but it needs to be filled with epoxy
But beware They're splitting in the valley because the main structure can't withstand the power.. They've fixed the sleeve issue, but now it's going to be a matter of keeping the block from splitting in two...

Another option will be the MMR block.
It will be very interesting to see how far you can push it.
Will love to see a bad azz N2O Mod Motor that can deliver & live threw the process<Like a Big Block Chevy>
Good luck with your project.! Hope to see out there soon ...

 

I agree with a couple things you are saying for sure.

I will be using an after market ecu that has progressive control built in to soften the hit of the NOS.

I will not be spraying fuel into the intake so my risk of back fire is well lowered by not having fuel puddling.

The stock blocks can split at about 1000whp. The MMR block with the sleeve is a step up. The motorsports blocks have rumored to be coming back also.

MMR says they have a 1500hp capable block for sale. I have talked to Greg there.

I will not be filling the block. Looks like cylinder flex is part of the problem.

Either way it will be costly and fun. Hopefully more fun than cost.

 

x2
if the block stays together you will be ok
yes, racing is expensive but is just money, right? For me is all worth it.!
Either way is going to be one hell off a ride & one of his kind.
Good luck to you.!


btw
We think that the hardest combo to beat this year in street form maybe the Centrifugal Blower Combo , but I may be wrong...