Do you have the P/N for the Erson cam your useing and are there the head gaskets you were useing and if not can you post a link to the head gaskets and maybe the cam.

I have red to pg. 60 on the orig. thread and it just blows my mind and you know almost every engine i have ever had built up allway's broke but all my stock worn but not out took the beast beating's and stayed together , i love what you have done and showed the world that this can be done and for 2 season's to boot LMFAO you are like THOR

 

The cam is called a TQ30H made by Erson cams and specs are hard to find but years ago someone on this board found them and its dang near identical to the Summit brand 224-224, 465 lift on a 114 L/C. Might as well just buy that cam since we know it works too.

There were two main brands of gaskets the grenade used. The first brand (i believe they are discontinued) were Corteco and the current stuff is made by enginetech. The Corteco's were a bit better as they had a heat dam built into the center bridge of the middle cylinder bores. All SBC's run too hot there due to the exhaust valves being side by side and non symmetrical port layout and thats where one will usually blow. The heat dam was some extra foil squeezed into the gasket that enginetech's dont have.

It hasnt been much of a problem and quite honestly, i think the motor doesnt care what gasket it uses as long as its installed right. I'll take this one to my grave when i say the head bolts/studs MUST be torqued to 85 ft lbs or it wont live! Obviously a nice flat machined surface is a bonus even on stock junk. The grenade had stock head bolts and SOME would yield at about 78 lbs so id chuck the bolt, grab another scabby used bolt and kept trying till i found a set that went 85 lbs. The stock bolts are simply amazing quality and held great.

ARP stuff generally will go 85 lbs without trouble and will do it at least 4 times before the bolts get spongy at 78-80 lbs. At that point throw em into some N/A boring eigine buildup and have fun. They are still good BUT not good enough anymore for big boost. Always smear both sides of the washers and threads so anything that sees FRICTION when torquing is good and slippery and the 85 ft lb value will be accurate. One last thing, i simply love the old beam type flex torque wrenches because i can watch torque rise and see visibly if a fastener is yeilding before i get where i want to be. Its nice to verify with your eyeball what your arm is telling you when torquing and you might avoid tearing stuff up by quitting before shit strips out.

85 ft lbs is what the charts say is the correct torque for a 7/16 grade 8 fastener and things dont CLAMP HARD till the last 5 ft lbs. Otherwise combustion pressure will "spring" the fastener up a few thousandths and blow the gasket. Keep detonation down to ZERO and a stock gasket can hold 1000 hp in a SBC for an entire race season before it slowly degrades. By that time your itching to take a peek into the engine anyways to see how the junker is holding up.

All this info given here applies to pretty much every buildup BUT every head bolt arrangement (and stud size, torque values etc) on different brand engines will affect how much HP junk stuff can take. Stock BBC iron heads and block fail hideously at low boost due to thin head deck surfaces where aluminum BBC heads are probably much better off. Old school o-ringing seems to be mandatory on the BBC motor.

 

Is this the cam your saying to use >>>> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1104 you use a hyd. cam

 

Thats the one. I also paired it with some 1.6 rockers that makes for a whopping .499 lift. Kinda fun to say you run 9's and dont even have .500 lift! The next up Summit cam is a 234-234 and that cam may be a good choice if you have some decent cubic inches and some free flowing turbos on the exhaust side. The 224 cam probably fits the average street oriented setup the best with non race quality turbos. Of course a roller cam with similar duration and lots more lift will work much better. The 224 cam is at least good for 700 whp without nitrous assist in a good 383 motor id say.

The 224 cam in my car (if i remember right) went mid 9's and got switched out because i was getting the weirdest boost flutter at high boost and i thought a change in cam profile would fix it. It changed things just enough to stop the needle fluctuations but wasnt really the problem so the cam was taken out for no reason. It would have went the same 9.30's on spray if that cam had stayed in the motor.

 

What do you think or this cam >>> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1107/overview/make/chevrolet sorry for the off topic derailment hijack


What do you think of 2 of these turbos on a stock 350 , i have a 1969 with alot of miles on it and i would like to put twins on or a single all i need to make is 600-650 hp my care will only wiegh 2800-3000 lbs maybe less it's not done yet but getting there i would like to run low 10's - hi 9's .

What stock cyl. heads should i be looking for the motor had 882's but there gone now and the only heads i have are the closed chamber 300 hp camel hump heads and the motor has stock cast flat top pistons so they would make to much C/R for a turbo don't you think oh and i will be running a blow thru setup .


What motor are you running the 383 still and whats the fastest to date on that combo.



Here's some pix of what i'm working on

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Thats car is gonna be badass! Love the rust and huge tires. LOL. That summit cam you listed makes a better supercharger cam than a turbo cam. My buddies and i briefly used a leftover blower motor with some turbos hung on it for a few weeks and it had that exact cam. It ran ok but wasnt spectacular with too much exhaust duration i think. If your looking for iron heads, find some 993, 487 or 487x heads. The 882's you had were total shit anyways with a bad exhaust port design. Flat top piston and a 76 cc is really only about 8.5 to 1 in real life and will work fine.

 

Marty i have a Chet hurbert's cam it's new i just bought it a couple months ago i have to go to the shop later and i will see what it is and if it can be used but i doubt it , i will post what it is later .

If you want me to stop posting here just say the word i don't want to be a dick and keep posting my junk here and piss you off

Mike

 

What do you think of 2 of these turbos on a stock 350 , i have a 1969 with alot of miles on it and i would like to put twins on or a single all i need to make is 600-650 hp my care will only wiegh 2800-3000 lbs maybe less it's not done yet but getting there i would like to run low 10's - hi 9's .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT35-T3-Tur...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item416e3bb1d0



Marty do you think a pair o these would be to laggy to use >>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/380464491461




Or would maybe just one o these get me were i want to be >>>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT45-TURBOC...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d38326b7f&vxp=mtr




This is the cam that i have >>>>> http://www.dougherbert.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_84_86_641_1205&products_id=9739

 

That cams a circle track grind and totally wrong for ya. I have been eyeballing the GT35 ebay turbo and think its a winner. The specs look kickass and as long as the quality is good, should make some damn good power on a 350. Id use a set of those as technially they could support close to 1000 hp easy.

No problem posting here as its all interesting to read!

 

What do you think of one GT45 as a single setup

 

One GT45 is something you will probably outgrow right away since its a tad small. You want one cheap ass turbo......buy a CX Racing Godzilla T76 with a .96 housing. Thats one badass 500 dollar turbo and plenty of fun for a cheap street setup. Not race quality by any means but its damn good quality and can still make 800 hp. If you buy the Ebay listing straight from china and wait the extra ship time, it can be had for 330 bucks!

 

Have you ever bought one straight from china? curious on ship times lol

 

What's the difference between these 2 turbos

1 >>> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GODZILLA-T4-...h=item1e760911ca&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_862wt_1271

And this one

2>>>> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GODZILLA-T76...=item43b787cbb3&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_6804wt_1271

 

Way, way, way too small on the turbine side for a single. Both of them.

 

are those the same size as a magnum t76? thats what ive got on my lq4 is that way too small?

 

Those are 3L Supra turbos. One is basically equivalent to a p-trim, the other is even smaller. So yes, they'd be too small for a LQ4, even bone-ass stock. As twins the turbine sizing wouldn't be bad, but then the compressors are way too big for a setup like that.

 

HaHa...that would be a funny and frustrating experience lol

 

noooo LOL yup got a q trim t76 stock lq4 3" dp probably isnt doing me any favors eh?

 

They definitely arent race quality turbos but is the turbine sizing that bad? We put the .96 A/R version on a 5.3 and it made 504 whp at 15 lbs and had great street response. There is another one on a stock LS2 crate motor in a trophy truck 4WD rock crawler thing (i have no idea what its actually called) that runs a center drive transfer case that turns power 180 to the rear diff and eats drivetrain HP like crazy. At 10 lbs it put down 465 whp on a conservative dynojet.

Thats also the same turbo Car Craft has bolted to several different late model engines and got 600 hp at 14 lbs boost. Good play toy but not optimum im sure.

 

Lots of backpressure AND lag? Sounds like WIN!

But seriously, that turbine/engine size/HP relationship is about along the lines of something you'd find in Maximum Boost from, what is it now, like 35 years ago?

My theory on why the 'GT45' makes decent power so easy is that it's got a big turbine (as compared to the compressor), which gives it a lot of leverage to get things spinning even with low backpressure, and low backpressure just makes EVERYTHING easier. Less heat, less fuel wasted in trying to overcome the pumping losses caused by the backpressure which just makes even more backpressure, and so on. But it's limited on total power with the small compressor. Somebody just needs to make a cheap unit that's got the same GT45 wheel size ratios, but about 6-8mm bigger on both ends.

Uh oh... tornado warning sirens... gotta go hide, or whatever it is you're supposed to do! ;[

edit: http://radblast-aws.wunderground.co...ls=1&severe=0&rainsnow=0&lightning=0&smooth=0

(do we have this far enough off topic now? lol)