swaped the open diff out last night and put a posi in and tried launching it and i can foot brake it as high as i want to rev almost but if i let of the brake it will launch hard but i litterally cant do a burn out hahha i even put soapy water on the tires and tried and nothing and it would do the same thing with the open diff

now this is a 2.56 rear end ratio with a 1.76 power glide so i know its not going to be silly off the line but dam i would think it could spin - getting onto the highway last night at like 45 i mashed it and the rear got loose on me so i know the rear is locking and posi isnt slipping

so my question is - am i blowing thru the converter or is the first gear band not holding? when i built the trans the first gear drum was flawless no marks and tighten the band tight then i think it was 3-4 turns back...

 

Can you drop the pan and check the band adjustment?

 

i cannot take you seriously untill you put your old avitar back haha

cant see dick if you drop the pan

 

Shhh.. Do not anger chuck!!!


Can you shift it up to second and try??

 

What converter?

 

according to pete its a 245mm gm core- bought it cheap from ebay- yes i know- but would think it could atleast not stall to 5k ha

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Yep, 245. It may have a negative fin angle and with the extra load of having a powerglide and your 2.08 ratio it may just be too much. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but is the band's job not to slow the drum down for a gear change or for engine braking? My TH400 has NO bands in it and the only side effect is no engine braking in low or 2nd.

 

pretty sure first gear band is applied engageing the planets and holding the low sun gear in place while the input spins - second the drum clutches are applied band is released and the sun gear and input shaft are spining together to get 1:1

who knows petes getting this convertor in the winter when i tear it down and its getting some gears in the rear

 

Half-fast... you are correct on the band function. The band holds the drum stationary which in turn holds the input gear stationary. The input shaft turns the sun gear, the sun gear turns the pinion gears to create the low gear ratio, and the pinion gears turn the carrier/output shaft assembly.

You have a couple of things working against you. One, the combination of the 2.56 rear axle ratio and the 1.76 low gear ratio = extremely minimal torque multiplication and extremely high load on the torque converter. Two, looking at the angle of the bumps on the outside of your converter tells me that the converter was built with a negative fin angle. As the impeller fin angle becomes increasingly negative the stall characteristics of the converter increase, and the efficiency drops off. With your current drivetrain combination it is physically impossible for your torque converter to achieve an efficient fluid coupling. I don't think that you're experiencing transmission slippage. You are definitely experiencing excessive converter slippage. You're going to need to install a rear gear set in the 3.42 - 3.73 range.

 

awesome pete thats what i was looking for- i even took the band adjustment all the way in just finger tight and still did the same thing so def the converter

now am i hurting anything in the converter by driving it with this set up or just creating alot of heat? because honestly it really doesnt drive bad and launches pretty hard for what it is i just get pissed when i see denmah doing 60 mph burn outs half throttle lol

 

Just get a new converter!

 

hey piss off just cuz you want to take it on a ride hahaha

 

I want that bitch to wheel stand!!!

 

And i want yours to go sideways but thats never going to happen!! haha

 

You're building a tremendous amount of heat in the converter and transmission with your current configuration. This is going to quickly reduce the life of the fluid and may compromise the long term durability of both the converter and the transmission.

Your car should be equipped with a 8.5" 10-bolt if I'm not mistaken. If new rear gears aren't in the budget then I suggest taking a trip to the wrecking yard ASAP and sourcing a set of 3.42's or 3.73's from a mid-'80's or later Chevy truck. 8.5" 10-bolt rear ends were common place in these trucks, as were those gear ratios.

 

and if i want to set land speed records keep the current gears? haha

budget really isnt a problem- now the problem is i have a series 2 carrier and i need a 3 series to go with the better gear

but i have been reading for a couple of days that they make thicker gears to space it over using series 2 carrier with series 3 gears but i cant find anything and obvioulsy no way im running a spacer i dont have a death wish yet

 

I have not seen a thicker ring gear available for the 8.5" 10-bolt. Those gear sets are available for the smaller 7.5" 10-bolt. All of the aftermarket 8.5" gear sets currently available are designed for use with a carrier that will accept a 2.73 or numerically higher gear set.

A spool is the most affordable solution. You'll hear a lot of debate about using a spool in a street car. I've used a spool in a daily driver and it didn't bother me one bit or give me any issues, but some people hate them. Using a spool will make your turning radius wider which can be a pain in a parking lot, but other than that they're not too bad on the street.

 

If you have no low band, you have no reverse either.

 

Thanks again pete- spent alot of time reading last night and couldnt find any thicker 8.5 ring gears even though tons a tards on forums saying they are available or just space the carrier over with shims

ill look into the spools tonight- this isnt my daily driver at all and limited on turning radius already as my inner tie rods hit the oil pan on the ls motor ha