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Welding on turbine hsg..

Discussion in 'DIY and Junkyard Turbo Tech' started by Chuck L, Jul 31, 2012.

  1. Chuck L

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2011
    Am considering welding the flange for the gate, [46MM PTE], to the turbine hsg. I am looking for suggestions as to how to do this. [Or if it's even feasible.] :welder:
    I've seen some Toyota road race set ups that had this done. Appeared to work well.
    I have TIG and MIG as welding sources.....
     
  2. Disney Lincoln

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    Man... When I put my TT kit together I used what I had. A 70amp flux core MIG. I welded my DP to the housing after cutting off the stock outlet. Worked like a charm....
     
  3. testchimp

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2006
    I have also welded them with a mig and it worked very well. I even mig welded a holset down pipe elbow from a dodge cummins truck and it worked great, i just put a little heat to it with a propane torch first.
     
  4. cat herder

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2008
    Nickel stick rod with the flux removed (& cleaned well - scotchbrite + acetone), and TIG it.
     
  5. Chuck L

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2011
    Thanks for the info! :2thumbs:
     
  6. sarg

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2011
    I used a 309 tig rod and it seemed to work awesome. I even tested it first by heating it up several times and beating it with a 5 lb sledge and it bent the metal, but the welds held. Just what I have done and seen work.
     
  7. slow67

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2007
    I've been told the nickel won't hold up to turbo exhaust heat.

    Lots of people just regular mild steel or stainless rods when welding LSx manifolds. I guess it really depends on the quality of the iron or steel used.

    Also, I found this on the 'bullet.
    [​IMG]#ad
     
  8. Chuck L

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2011
    One word fits that pic:

    [glow=red,2,300][size=36pt]DAMN![/size][/glow]
     
  9. stangman9897

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009


    Wouldn't be easier to just use a H-Nickle Tig rod. Just saying.
     
  10. cat herder

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2008
    My local Airgas doesn't even stock any 309 (I asked of they could special order some for me, was told they couldn't order anything less than 100lbs at a time and they would do it but only if I were to buy all 100lbs). You mean it's not like that everywhere? :eek:
     
  11. 10secgoal

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2005
    I've used both ni-rods. Machinable and non and they held up without preheat. As I read, the cooling is more important. That's why if you can't prolong the cool do they say to preheat. The cool down takes longer. I just welded it and it got hot, then I threw in in a turbo blanket and it stayed warm for hours afterwards. Never had a problem.
     
  12. livefast1

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2008
    I always throw mine in a bucket of sand or oil dry after I weld cast and they have held up great.
     
  13. Chuck L

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2011
    What I did on the exh manifold, [LQ4], that I modified. Welded it w/ mild steel/tig, some preheat w/ a propane torch, and covered it in a bucket of bead blaster sand until I could handle it w/ bare hands...
    I did notice a fine crack in a cold test weld, so the preheat/sand idea was initiated.

    Thanks for the ideas...More to come, as the project continues.
     
  14. larouchedem

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2004
    "good" cast is pretty forgiving, but fwiw, if it was an expensive casting, hard to find etc, I would use *something* other than mild steel filler/electrode.

    I have had VERY good luck with this "mig" wire for cast on cylnder heads. I did a test on a junk head, no pre/post heat, no cracks. I suspect that thier other options for cast would do equally well;

    http://www.crownalloys.com/

    Dave
     
  15. Chuck L

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2011
    Dave, thanks for the link! I'll get on over there, and see what I can find.
    I'm also doing some more investigating as to what the make up of the turbine hsg really is....
     
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