Ok I feel dumb but I am baffeled!! Can somebody help me with the run and boost retard curves for this thing? First I'll start with my combo. Its a 2700 lb 67 barracuda. 493" turbocharged, automatic 4000 stall, 3.55 gear. Cam is a 252* 647" solid roller, 8.5-1 compression. Mopar stage VI alum heads, Holley 980 blow through. It has a MSD billet distributor and a 3 bar map sensor. I'll run 10-12 lbs on pump gas and 18-20 on race gas. The car will see quit a bit of street duty as well as strip duty. I need help setting this unit up as I am quite confused and frustrated. I have my distributor locked out at 40* I tried to figure out placing the dots but got baffled. Please help! car is ready to go..

 

there was a guy named Peter who worked at MSD, was really helpful in the basics of how to set up my box when i had an LS engine-from what i have seen the 6530 uses something sim., click and drag the dots
getting my head around how a map sensor functions was the hardest, once i accepted that it went good
theres a couple guys on here using the 6530, hopefully they get you straight
i have been looking at that box, but i want to make sure its something i can understand, lol

 

Here is an example of running 40º locked . 40º at anything greater than 10" of vac . Then at 10" of vac , it starts pulling timing back gradually until you get to 36º at 0 vac / 0 boost . Then from there it pulls 1º per # of boost up to 20psi of boost . This would be close to a pump gas tune . ( not saying your set-up will like it or not )

Remember 14.5 is 0psi at sea level . Thats why I have a dot at 14.5 and 4º . ( 40º - 4º = 36º ) at 0psi .

So at 1psi = 35º
2psi = 34º
3psi = 33º
ect
ect
20psi = 16º

 

First thing ........ you have a 3bar sensor ?

And you have to go to the menu tree and make sure you switch the sensor to 45psia .

 

ok That makes sense a little. Yes I have a 3 bar map sensor. So if I wanted to only go 10-12 psi my graph would flatten out at 26.0 and 15.5?

 

26 being aprox 12 psi , yes .

But there is no reason to flatten it out . Just continue to pull timing past the boost you plan on running . That way if there is a problem , and you make more than you planned on , your covered .

If you dont think you have it right , just post a pic of your graph .

 

ok I understand. Thanks! Now can ya help with the run retard? I would like to pull a bunch before idle so it starts easy right? So Zero is actually my total locked timing right?

 

If it is 0 on both graphs.

 

What will the box do in the event that you were running say a 2 BAR sensor and over-boosted to say 20psi?

 

probably just stay at the timing you just have set for 14.5lbs of boost(29psi on the graph). maybe even danger to manifold?!? lol

 

I think they have a start retard setting so you don't have to do that

 

ya you can but why not have it do it itself instead of adding a button or something?

 

I dont think that box has a start retard .

You have to use the run retard for your start retard . Start at 0 and 20º . Flat line over to 600 rpm then up to 0 after that .

If you have a 2 bar it will only pull timing up to 15psi ( or 30psia )

 

I am pretty sure it has a start retard. I think it's the pink wire for triggering it.
I have a 3 bar map sensor.

Thanks again for your help!!

 

Ah , ok . Never thought of that .

I always associated the pink wire with time based retards and for N02 .

I think most guys use the run retard as a start retard .


Good luck . Let us know how it works out .