Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

Sounds awesome Anthony!! Can't wait to see those pics and see some video of her in the Hood!!

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

nice work fellas, sounds good

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

Congrats on the start up guys. Can't wait to see this thing in action.

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

8) eh... not bad. I just finished my project that is waaaaay more detailed and creative, and it only took me 26 days... by myself... in the dark... now where'd i put that link to my thread

Lol. Nice build guys. I think I might be offended if I was looking at that in a show with all those middle fingers looking back at me. I'd be like "Fine! Fuck you too, CAR!" and leave crying.

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

Congrats! Very nice guys!

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

Damn.

I've been saving up to go buy a Diversion(or bite the bullet and go straight to the Dynasty)....Now I want a friggin lathe and a bridgeport just so I can pipe dream about doing something like this.


Where are you guys located? I'm local, I'd love to come check all this out in person some day.

Also, a friend of mine in Alsip owns a water-jet and is always doing one-off automotive stuff...Food for thought.

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

The Shanunthony's H.Q. is in Glen Ellyn, a few miles from north ave and 355. Feel free to stop by sometime when we are working on this thing!

Diversion? Why not pick up my Miller Synchrowave 180SD? I just bought an Everlast 250EX inverter and am going to sell the Miller. PM me if you are interested. I have a bunch of consumables i can throw in too for you.

thanks,
Shaun

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

My garage's electric is a bit lacking right now. I told the guys when they put the pipe in the ground that I wanted to run a 100-amp 220v sub-panel....They didn't listen and put a tiny pipe in(the pvc or whatever it is). I'm limited to 60-amps total to run the welder, lights, etc...I figured I should just go with an inverter off the bat.

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

Yeah, i gotcha, that sounds like a good call. If i were you i would take a good look at the Everlast stuff. I got a 5 year warranty and 6months money back guarantee. The Arc is beautiful too. Check out the videos on weldingtipsandtricks.com from Jody where he reviews the Everlast 250ex.

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

I have read into them, they get so many mixed reviews it's tough to weed through them. The ThermalArc welders looked like a great option too, but a little pricier.

Honestly, at this point, I should just dig up my back yard and put new pipe in...And then go buy a nice sync. We'll see.


Either way, I'd definitely love to see this thing in person some time...I'll have to take a ride out there some day soon.

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

SICK!

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

I think the T/A185 is a better option for the hobbyist.....I bought it for $2400 and only needed a bottle. A Dynasty at that same time was $2800 for just the power supply, still needed EVERYTHING else (no foot pedal, torch, regulator, consumables, etc). It would have been closer to $3600 for the Dynasty (buying everything new).

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

Any updates. Glad you like the everlast. Getting one as soon as I get a few more paychecks. Thinking about the 256 with the plasma though.

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

So, it's been a month and a half since it first ran.

Just when you think you're bulletproof, mother nature comes in and shuts you down, hahaha. Initially, we could not get the car to idle lower than 1800RPM without fattening the idle up a ton. Also, cylinder #8 had a curious, sporadic pop (visible through the blade, kinda cool looking). The flanges, even when fully torqued, were not fully seated down on the head's intake surface (thanks in no small part to the 45* angle the bolts go in at). Vacuum was low. Our big fear was that our machining was not tight enough, so we yanked the intake and found a bunch of the push-lock vacuum hose fittings were loose / not fully seated. Whew, we thought! Compression AND leakdown tests showed a perfectly happy & healthy #8.

Trial #2, this time with the intake circuit fastened securely and with the help of an improvised vacuum-circuit tester (which could be tested with the intake bolted to the motor), netted about the same results. We later ended up swapping the coil AND injector in #8, but the sporadic popping was still there. Low vacuum. Vacuum improved with the IAC hole blocked. When we pulled it, we discovered that 7 out of 8 intake port o-rings had ripped badly during the torquing sequence. #8's o-ring was not ripped. Hmmmmmmmmmmm.

Trial #3 was done the same except with an insane amount of RTV everywhere all over the flanges. Same results. Glad I didn't have to scrape the RTV off.

After yanking the intake after trial #3, Shaun and D tested each runner, with the blades shut, by doing a simple water pouring test. The water holding capabilities ranged anywhere from 10 seconds to 49 seconds. By comparison, the stock 5.0 blade held water for over 5 minutes.

Unfortunately, in the big rush to put this together, too many cooks (while trying to be helpful) who were not fully aware of the importance of a tight blade/bore seal got a little too liberal with die grinders, cartridge sanders, polishing wheels, files, etc etc. There were also two glaring design flaws: 1, the "surface" generated for the inside of each runner was WAY too close to the opening blades to be practical, and 2, the blade basically "free-balled" over the flat of the shaft (the shaft flat was 2.250" and the blade diameter was 2.250"), which was a big spot that let air through even when shut.

"Now what?" After a few different ideas, we decided to try and clean up all the bores in the runners and make new larger blades (to correspond with the bigger bore) which had flats in them that sat inside the shaft groove. Actually, the new bore size was determined by an imaginary circle drawn at the 4 corners of each flat in the shaft. It went from 2.250" to 2.305". This operation also took 1/2 lb out of the intake! So, in a week, we had the thing yanked all apart, re-bored, new blades made, put back together and tested. With everything shut, the blades all held water for over 6 minutes, but the kicker was how perfectly even we got everything. They all drained EXACTLY the same amount. We also found larger O-rings which jammed inside the existing flange grooves but stuck a healthy 0.025"-0.030" past the surface.

We put it back on, and the car idled at a crisp sounding 600 RPM. AFRs were in the 14s and vacuum was over 13". Alright! We spent all day putzing with different idle tactics (IAC compensation vs. blade opening) and overall, it sounded pretty mean. THEN, almost by accident during a header primary temperature check (with a heat laser gun), we found out cylinder #8 was totally dead. Although mostly gone and barely audible, this is where the popping was coming from! #8's injector fires sometimes, whenever it feels like, then the surplus fuel ignites eventually. This went along with all other signs previous - when pulled, the #8 plug was dripping wet and cold every time. Also, the O2 sensor was in #8's bank! It has spark for sure, so we're going to try and fix that, then maybe cruise around the block a time or two this weekend if it's nice. More video / updates to come.....

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

I must admit I got a bit of a tingle when I saw this in my updated topics

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

BUMMER.. but dont give, keep fighting that thing....you'll get it right.

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

If it was easy, everyone would have one-off crazy shit! You guys are fuckin nuts anyhow!

john

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza



So, here you can kind of see how the bores used to be: the "bore" stopped where the "surface" began, which is right where the blade had to live. As we were doing them, I thought, eh, clean them up with a sanding roll and we'll be good to go. Nu uh!!!

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This is the new bore - it goes well past the shaft and then makes a (I think) 38* run into the surfaced portion. Not a terrible blend. It doesn't quite hug the blade at part throttle like I'd envisioned in the first place, but maybe that was just a pipe dream.

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This one is with a reject blade nestled inside (the flats missed the center by 0.008" and it still held water past the 5 minute mark)....actually, this is a reject runner with a reject blade, hahaha.

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Here's the before (left) and after (right) - notice the green area highlighted which just let air fly past. (Monty Python voice) Nyet anymore!!!

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This last stab REALLY pushed the bounds of fine machine work - they wouldn't all bolt in and seat down when I had them 0.003" undersized....they did when they were 0.009" under (or 0.003" extra per side out of each flat). Shaun also did a fantastic job of boring the runners: 6 of 8 were right on the nuts, one was +0.001" and one was -0.001".

 

Re: 395", twin T70's, 3.5" down pipes, A/C, PS, billet intake, stock hood, pizza

We're dumb. We spent 2 weekends worth of hard mechanical and wiring troubleshooting to find out.......guess what??? In the AEM software, for a V8, the coil drivers which have to be on are: 12346789, not 12345678. The spark we'd been seeing was #2s waste, which was also randomly igniting the built up unburned fuel (the intermittent popping).

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The car idles pretty good now with that cylinder turned on! Could have probably spent those weekends on the intercooler but oh well, a hard lesson in RTFM. I'm entertaining a guest from out of town all this weekend but Shaun might get some stuff done, so stay tuned....