What is the best way to drill a hole for a return oil line into the oil pan? My vehicle manual calls for an engine lift etc if I want to remove the pan so I would rather do it with the pan still attached

I have read about dipping the drill bit in oil and drilling the hole slowly to catch all the shavings.

Anybody has any experience doing this?

Thanks

 

If it were me id coat the drill bit in grease, not oil and get a bit designed for the thickness/material of the pan so it doesnt try and tear a big hole (or regrind bit to a shallower angle if needed)

dump the current oil, flush with cheap stuff, then refill with the good oil.

 

If I were you I would not follow that advice. Take the pan off and do it right. Locate and drill hole and weld the AN fitting on the outside as well as the inside. Best to TIG weld it so no leaks occur. I also machine the AN fitting (weld end) so I get the exact fit I need in the hole for depth into the pan as well as nice tight fit for diameter to make welding easier. Wash and flush pan and then leak test with acetone.
T.J.

 

The way I've done it is the old Procharger way of using a punch to start the hole, then a cutoff punch to finish it to size. Tap the "ears" inside the pan with a greased tap, get out all the shavings you can with a strong magnet, and flush with a bunch of kerosene or similar with the drain plug removed. If you have a welder you could use a unibit to make a clean hole and then weld a bung in that way. Just make sure you get all the shavings out with a magnet and flush and you should be good.

 

vortech method is use ice pick and enlarge with punches, which makes no metal shavings. then put a liberal amount of grease on 3/8 pipe thread and tap the pan. usually takes at least 4 steps or more, each time removing and wiping metal shavings. I have done many but when I went to a canton pan I had a friend of mine who tig welds weld a bung into my pan at a 45deg angle. I believe vortech sells a kit for that comes with punch and taps needed to do the job on the car.

 

The punch method worked well for me. I thought I was nutz trying it, but it came out good. I did solder the nipple to the pan, but a good sealant on the threads would have worked just as well.

#ad

 

we filled the oil pan right full welded the fitting right on to the oil pan then punched it, no shavings to worry about. If you do it this way make sure the oil level is above where your welding

 

interesting approach

 

If you absolutely don't want to remove the pan for whatever reason (cause that is the best way to do it) then PUNCH, TAP with HEAVY GREASE ON TAP, Fitting with Sealant. Flush Oil at least once before running engine.

 

im liking the 45deg bung welded into the side of the pan

 

If your worried about metal shavings flush it with some cheap oil and get some magnetic drain plugs,

 

If you are going to drill the oil pan, definitely use grease not oil !!!!! The way i do it is use a steel an fitting and weld it to the pan, then take a punch that fits inside the an fitting and punch it out = no shavings in oil pan!

 

One other trick that I've used before too is to block off the valve cover PCV ports and put shop air to the dipstick tube while drilling and tapping - an adaptation of running an engine when tapping an exhaust manifold for an EGT port to blow the chips out.

Don't get too carried away on pressure though - use a blow nozzle or regulator to modulate it. Had a buddy push out a really worn front main seal on a SBC like that.

 

This seems like a really elegant solution...any disadvantages to trying this?

 

Why does the oil level need to be so high to do this?

 

Because oil is a very good heat conductor. Welding above the oil level will cook the oil film on the inside and make nasty stuff. If the oil level is high the heat will dissipate and won't allow localized hot spots. I think.

 

So twins on a 5.0 Mustang need a fitting on each side of the pan, right?

 

Filling it with oil, past the point where your welding helps to keep the heat down and prevents vapours from igniting. Crankcase vapours can be explosive.I wouldnt try this unless you have an experienced welder. Oil pans are thin and you dont want to burn through. Also If you do use this meathod be carefull when you punch the pan dont use to long of a punch.

 

I did the punch and enlarge method. I didn't tap threads though. I just forced a sacrificial fitting in; removed it; screwed in the new fitting and sealed it with JB Weld. No leaks.

Don't forget to pick a spot on the pan that is lined up with a journal so the returning oil doesn't flow into a rotating crank part.