Tire width is probably less than 10% of what determines how well a car hooks. Suspension is absolutely most important, followed by compound. Those tires you linked to would do good to hook up 500hp with such small sidewalls.

 

Well, I have driven a car with the 315 MT Drag Radials that has a BBC and makes around 600HP NA...I could do a rolling burnout, if I floored it, at around 80 Km/h. This is only 600hp...NA...with a 300 shot it does a burnout for the entire 1/4 mile on the drag radials or ET Streets....and the car has a well set up suspension, it goes mid 9's on a prepped track on slicks at 4200lbs weight. The tires you are looking at are hopeless for traction with any real power....any stiff sidewall radial is, for that matter.

 

If you cant get a 600hp or 900hp car to hook on 315 drag radials then you have other issues. We have local guys making 1500 to 2000hp and getting it done on 275 and 295 drag radials with stock style suspension.

 

you cant compare tracksurface with normal open roadconditions , if you not prepared when you walk intoo the tacky startarea of a dragstrip you loose youre shoes trying to lift youre feet of the ground it sticks worse than a table in a dirty diner

 

My mistake, I thought we were talking about on the track

 

Again, this is a STREET ONLY CAR.

1500 to 2000 hp 275 and that hooks. Please, tell me the secret to do that.

I am going to use the Jake´s Rod Shop full perimeter subframe, there is no better suspension on the market.
So I should get a bit of traction too....

 

No big secrets. Those are highly tuned race cars, perfectly prepped racetracks and I am sure they only use max power later in the run. There is a world of difference between street and track....actually, if your car has big power, there is a world of difference even between a good and bad track. Also, there are major differences between different types of suspensions...especially between those optimised for handling and those found on street/strip cars designed for lots of weight transfer, to hook up big power in a straight line, and those in race cars, where they only run on a glued track.

 

That is why I will order the Shockwaves instead of the Coilovers.

The Shockwaves are a lot softer and will allow a better weight transfer.

My turbo setup is also planed in a way to produce boost in the mid range. No boost from the bottom.

 

He wants a Pro Mod to hook on the street with 20" radials. That shouldn't be hard, lol.

 

When your opinion is needed we will let you know. Why dont you try to catch some flies meanwhile?

 

he could try 4 wheel drive but it will still be expensive and hard on the drivetrain

 

I can assure you that catching flies in your 1500hp street car is all it will be good for.

Think what you will but I posted what everyone else who reads through your never ending bbc posts is truly thinking. Take some of this unlimited budget that you have and invest in a nice ferrari or lamborghini that you would actually want to drive once in a while.

 

Your opinion is still not needed.

 

i dont know what planet your from,oh i see planet nopar neon!.
for your info theres 1000 plus hp v8 cars running around all over the place these days that are street driveable every day,so leave the man alone and let him post all he wants.
if you where half as smart as you think you are you would ALMOST qualify as an idot just for posting this crap

 

most of those cars , the F-bomb camaro for one turn down the boost during regulair driving , just to safe on parts and make it driveable
that car gives you a good idea whats needed for that amount of power btw

 

Go over to purposebuilt.org and look up the following users: Barry (70 Chevelle 540" bbc F2), 68 drop top (80 something Regal 400ish" sbc 114mm turbo), JJensen (Fox body 363" sbf 100ish mm turbo), injected65 (fox body, sbf 100ish mm turbo) all of them have been 5.0 to 5.1x in the 1/8th mile at 140-152mph on 275's on our track, KCIR, which is an "OK" track, but not the best. All of them are stock style suspension cars too. None of them are light either.
That being said, I know we are comparing apples to oranges, just wanted to give you some of examples.

 

OK, lets clear a few things up, because its pretty obvious that some people here dont really know what we are dealing with here.

1. He is in Austria. Do you guys know how many racetracks they have in Austria ? None. Zero. All street, and the 2 or so races a year they have on closed off roads with regular pavement or concrete. Its not like a street/strip car that you put around on street tires, with the power turned down. Way down, I may also add.

2. He has a convertible with no cage of any kind, and wants to use those MT-s with the intention of hooking them on the street with 1500 HP worth of 540 BBC...which will have major torque even before any boost will show. No way, no how.

3. I am in Hungary, not far from where he is. I know a thing or three about cars, and hooking under street conditions. We race regularly. We have 1 track in the country that has a glued surface, and another closed off airfield that has some TrackBite smeared on it for the first 100 yards out. The rest is asphalt, with nothing on it. So we run like this: you launch, and ramp in whatever we can before your off the glue...after the first 100 yards you really have to watch how you ramp up the power...a little too much and the car will loose traction. On regular asphalt, we have to launch real soft and start ramping in even softer, and maybee get to put down the 1100 or so HP we have only for a couple of seconds past the 1/8 mile mark. This is really danderous stuff. These are big tire ladder bar cars, not stock suspension radial cars. You would be fucked on a track like this on 275 radials, even if you have double the power...in fact, the more power, the worse the problem is. A prepped track ifs fuckin easy...you launch hard, hang the fronts a little, and then let it eat as the car settles down.

I am also building a TT BBC 540 for my new racecar...it will have a little bit more power then 1500 hp (not much tho, a guess/hope 1700) ...I have a Don Hardy ex Pro Mod Camaro with the works to run it in. 17x34.5 slicks, full round tube chassis, strut front end, and an integrated, proper certified cage. I am also a little worried about how I am going to have some traction...on the street tracks I will have to turn it way down and ramp it real slow...on the good track I can turn it up more...but in a street convertible on 18 or 20 inch bling wheels with no cage or safety equipment of any kind ? No fuckin way. Sorry. A healthy 400 smallblock is more than that car will ever hook on street radials, I dont care what frame and shocks and other stuff he will have. A good 540 without boost will smoke those tires at a 55 mph roll without shifting down.
I own a GMC Syclone and a Typhoon...AWD turbo trucks...on those,SyTy people can hook around 600 HP on street tires on the street...more than that and they also start having traction issues, and AWD burnouts as they loose traction if the boost comes in too fast.

So WTF are we arguing about here ?

 

you guys racing on grave roads or what?

granted my firebird was a nitrous car, BUT on the 9.0 tune and 10 inch street tire i could do a 3 gear burn, put it on the brake, out leave flat on the floor and carry the tires for 30 feet .... ON THE STREET. i don't mean with VHT or any type of prep etc., i mean dust dirty normal summer time street. it's simple, test, test, test til it hooks.

the cars that Mike is talking about with the exception of Barry's, are stock replacement BOLT ON parts in stock mounts and locations, no rocket science, fancy hand made frames etc., the track's (KCIR) prep is "average" on it's best days.

granted we do have nicer streets and tracks here, but it sounds like we need to move down there and make a good living taking money on the weekends!

 

Thanks for chiming in, I forgot you were even on here. Have you seen Barrys car since Webb put it back to stock suspension? He did a hell of a job!

 

no i hadn't, i guess i need to run over and check it out.