Running again, for now. Have to pull the passenger header off because it has a leak in the merge of the four tubes. Took off the factory hp manifolds and put in headman shorty headers while waiting for pistons to convert back to stock 3.75" stroke. At 6# boost and 10 to 1 afr it's a total dog compared to the 500" I took out. Once I get the tune right I can turn the boost back up.

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Why did you destroke it? Bigger is always better. LOL

 

looks great, good job

 

I took the 4.15" crank out for a couple of reasons. The first was the Diamond blower pistons were so noisey it was ambarassing to drive. During warm up they sounded like an old cummins diesel. Still very loud when fully warmed up. People not in the know kept telling me that my engine was no good. I just told them loose was fast. The second reason was in the last 11 years and 4 attempts at fixing the rear seal the oil leak never changed. Always made a mess. Now with the stock crank back in it is bone dry. With the eagle crank I tried every trick in the book and had the fluted seal surface of the crank polished but nothing made a change.
Up to 10#s on the primaries only it's starting to show some promise, but sure gave up a lot of torque down low.

 

LOL I have those exact same issues. I just ignore the pistons as I know they are strong mine are pretty quiet when warm. I never drive this thing very far though. I still haven't fixed the rer main. I hate pulling motors. I added a main girdle and all the shims and studs on the pan rail makes it so I have to pull the motor to try and fix the main seal leak. Needless to say it is still leaking.

 

I'm also running a main girdle, what a pain. On these old cars you used to be able to pull the engine do a re-ring and brg. job on a weekend. We just made them complicated and hard to work on. But I wouldn't have it anyother way. Boost is like heroin....so I've heard.

 

awesome

 

Greate Turbo installation, very "smutt"

 

Is the crossover going to the turbo above or below the k member? How.much ground clearance do you have? Also what headers are those? I'm wondering if I can do that with my a body dart, but mount on the drivers side 90* turned?

 

i beg to differ on that..

 

The 2.5" pipes go under the k member then merge into a 3" pipe which goes throught the k member in front of the lower A arm pivot bolt. The oil pan has about 5" of clearance and the pipes have about 4.25" clearance to the ground. No problems so far. The headers are Headman shorties. I think the part number is 78080. Passenger side front pipe needs a flat spot at the shock tower and the drivers side needs a couple dents to clear the steering box and a cast lug cut off the block for the center two pipes. I cut off the flange at the outlet of each header and put on v-band clamp assemblies.
Not sure how this stuff will work in an A body?
Mopar engines are always moved over to the passenger side by about an 1" for steering box clearance. This gives the apearance of more room up top but you have a steering shaft and box to contend with for down pipe clearance.
Hope some of this info helps.

 

So they go under the rear part of the k member. Then go up through the hole.between the k member and up?

 

Looks great and love the color!

 

Just curious, is the alternator under the turbo?

 

You have pics of the old manifold setup or just the manifold themselves? I'm considering running stock manifold backward on mine as it would be simple to do a large frame single up front that way. I be never seen the rear dump HP maniflods. Wanting to see if they would flow better then my current smoggers. Im also debating twins instead of a single

 

Yes they do. I'll try to get some pictures and post them tomorrow.

The alternator is under the turbo but very close to the pipe feeding the turbo. The brackets I built for the alternator help to support the turbo. Everything is very tight and the fan has to be removed to get the alternator out. Will try to get pictures of this also.
I do have pictures of the old manifold setup and will post then next. The manifolds turned around backwards may not fit because of the motor mounts and shock towers but I haven't tried it myself.

 

I know my set are high enough to make a bend back upwards before reaching the k member. Would have to cut off one of them though cuz it would bend into the frame rail. That would be the drivers side mounted backwards on the pass side.

 

Still trying to figure out how to shrink the pictures.

 

email it to me

macko(underscore)@hotmail.com

 

its easier to use Photobucket.com then just copy paste the bottom link for the picture you want to use.