I posted a thread below about a twin turbo 383. Well, a slight change in plans. The 383 that I was trying to obtain fell through. A kind member on moparts placed an ad "383 FREE" so I contacted him and got it!
WOW, what a deal. It was removed from a 66 C body that was rotted severely. When I arrived the car was on the lift and was in very bad condition. Well, I got the 383 home and completely disassembled it and Whoa!!!! This thing is emaculate. NOT one trace of sludge anywhere. Valley was super clean, no ridge whatsoever in any of the cylinders. Pulled the pistons and removed the inserts. Hardly NO wear and they are stamped 6-65 on the backside. Same one the main inserts as well. The Forged steel crank still looks polished even. Its ready to head to G&G Machine

Will I need to up the A.R for the single setup since the cubes are quite a bit higher now??? Looks like I can get .96, 1.05, 1.15, 1.32.. Will this engine be able to produce the 800+ HP I am aiming for with the single, if not more?? The engine alone should make 500HP easy. The kit looks to have 9.51 compression as the lowest depending on the heads. I am using the 906 mildly ported heads for now. This is also a blow-thru with a 850 Holley DP.

Post on please!!

 

You're going backwards here. The last thing you need here is cubes. I would save the $2000, and extra machining costs, and jerking around, for things like:

-Heads you can save if something goes wrong, without heat riser ports and with blind, heli-coiled exhaust bolt holes
-Fuel system ($$$$$!!!!!!!!)
-Data acquisition

Not to mention the huge pile of "little things" that are going to bite you in the ass.

But you don't have to take my word for it. Here's a 383" blow-thru motor, with an easy to procure, shelf-like turbo which goes mid 9's in a 4400lb truck at 16.5 psi.
https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=129933.0

 

^^^^^ WERD to your mother

 

let the turbo do the work / make the power ...
x2 on spending money on 383 cube, and getting all the goodies for that motor..

 

Hmm.
Ok, Isn't this a stroked 350 Chivy??
Enlighten me. I am not dealing with Chivy, this is a MoPar Big Block. Does this make it different? I know the info I provided was vague so I will elaborate. I am building a 1968 383 Formula S Barracuda. I intended on twin turboing it like a fellow member in forabodiesonly.com but with the size of this engine in an A-body this has become an issue. I am new to the turbo thing and have 0 knowledge in it. Yes, I did read the newbie thread. I have read so many threads about it I have been blinded by overwhelming information. I have no issues with building a N/A motor. I built a 514 in a Falcon that turned 8.70's in the 1/4 so my experience in engines is not an issue but this is quite expensive with our fukd economy and Not streetable.

I will more than likely be using the gt45r clone by Master power turbo. I have been unsuccessful in determining the VE of this particular engine. My goals are 800hp that will be seeing 90% street use. Mostly my Saturday night "Special". Occasionally I will drive it to the track on street night and blow the doors off of some racecars test-n-tuning(Mainly my wife's 66 Big tire 9.90 Mustang). I am looking to build an affordable mild engine that will rip the shit out of most anything on the street. I was an avid streetracer back in the day but since then it has become a felony here in Texas.

My opologies if my arrogance offends anyone. I have been labeled an A$$HOLE by my own Mother! LoL! Anyhow, I had my twin setup determined and was using GT45 turbo's with a .96 A.R.. My question was since going to a Single would the A.R. need to be raised due to the exhaust pressures of said Big Block above??

 

I agree with the other replies because I learned the hard way. Started with 500" and old "452" iron heads because it is what I had. Made tons of torque below 3000 rpm and nothing above 4800. Try racing that. The engine never goes below 4000 on a run and you feel like your waiting to get above 5000 to shift. My heads and turbo choked that motor big time so I changed it to a 440 and it is now better. Now shifting at 5200 and you don"t feel like you're wating. Also makes for a nicer driving engine as I put on about 8000 miles a year.
If I had your 383, my do over money would go into airflow. Intake, heads and exhaust (in and out of the turbo). The turbo will make all the torque you want.
Hope this helps. Feel free to ask any questions as I have a lot of error knowledge.

 

Ok, so stick with the stock forged crank, .010 forged pistons and H-beam rods. I go with the Eddy heads, a Victor intake and fabbed logs for the exhaust. What turbo are you using on the 440?? I have a 446 in the Cuda pushing 550 HP now but only gets 8 miles to a gallon of premium and it is not very streetable.

O', it also is a 4 speed with 373 sure-grip

 

Promise to not throw rocks and I'll tell you! It's a 80mm ITS ball bearing with a 1.32 a/r t4 frame. Yep it's a bottle neck for sure.

 

actually, its not as bad as you think...

 

No stones around glass!! Lol!
So, say I go with the 88mm- 1.32 a/r with a t6 frame?

 

I am making an offer on a Turbonetics 88mm with the 1.32a/r with the T6 frame now.

 

This is the Scott Brown cam I intend to use due to lobe seperation,

Specs: Intake Exhaust
Lobe Lift .360 .353
Rocker ratio 1.5 1.5
Valve Lift .540 .530
Adv Dur 287 303
[email protected] 240 252
Lobe CentLin 108 116
Lash Hot .000 .000


Valve timing Open Close
@.50 Int 12 BTDC 48 ABDC
Exh 62 BBDC 10 ATDC


Lobe Seperation 112
Degree Intake Lobe 108

 

I don't claim to be an expert but the 1.32 on a t6 sounds big time laggy for a street driven car at 383ish cubes. Perhaps the guys with t6 experience can provide some help. There was a purple 70' challenger on here a while back with a 500" wedge and gt47 with 1.00 range t6. Put down 800 plus torque and hp to the tires at about 10lbs. boost. The boost started at about 3500. To change the hot side is cheap. Sounds to me your on the right track.

 

Cool!
You have cleared the smoke a bit! Guess all I need to determine is if I am going to use a T4 or T6. If T6 it'll need to be below said 1.32 a/r. Thanks for your input Bro!

 

Nigel Tufnel is the guy with the 70' challenger. It's in the hall of fame builds board with his "572". I couldn't find his 500" buildup. Tons of info there. Good luck with the build and post lots of pictures.
.

 

Trust me, I love Rick Ehrenberg and his musings, but the faster you drop the "Mopar Butthead" routine, the more help you'll get from the guys who go really fast on this board who just happened to not to use Dodge stuff (for instance, look at the first iteration of Hemi Fred's 7 second Road Runner....dun dun dunnnn!!!).

Absolutely do a T6. Our buddy Mike wasn't so sure about a T6 on 331" - he is now though!! https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=108794.0 [/shameless plug]

Before you go nuts - after "cost," the decision to go single / twin should hinge mostly on what size downpipe you can get out of the engine bay. Twins cost more, but might make your life a lot easier. I have a C-body, in fact, the 3rd largest automobile ever produced by Chrysler, next to Y-bodies and the 69+ C-bodies, and there's no way a 5" DP would make it anywhere past the firewall without splitting about 6 times, hahahah. It gets exponentially worse with A/B/E/homo-Volare-whatever-the-fuck-those-are, hahahaha.

 

https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=65312.0

 

Aaight, spanking accepted!!

 

Get 2 of the .96 or 1.05 gt45's a with the 496 and be ready for power that you ain't never felt before!

But like everyone else says there will be a million things you will have to buy that will and dime you to death....