There is some info on how to " Convert Dual Sync Accel distributors to work with FAST" here http://www.fastmanefi.com/TechDownLoads.htm.

There are also some good guides as well for the XFI crowd.

 

I have a Typhoon 4.3L V6 with FAST XFI... I would think that one of these Dizzys would help me get the

truck into sequential mode.. I'm stuck with Batch right now

Any help would be great!

Thank you,
Scott

 

The same modification can also be performed to TFI distributors. If your ecu is setup for hall, tfi, or has a VR input with adjustable zero crossing, a standard (and virtually free) tfi dizzy can be used.

Slice all but one vane off (as described for the msd). Since the vanes are thin sheetmetal, a cutoff wheel makes QUICK work of them.

If you already have a harness for the TFI module (but if using crank trigger I don't know why you would have one), plug it in and leave the module. The pip signal passes straight through, although I am 90% certain the signal wire is pulled up to 12v through the tfi module.

If you have a standalone harness, I like to remove the module, and terminate a nicer 3 wire connector to the PIP (which is a standard 3 wire hall). The wires are a little short, so they likely need to be extended. Connect 12v to red, your signal/reference ground to black, and your signal wire to green. Your particular ecu may or may not need the pullup to 12v through the resistor in the tfi module.

I did this this on my 2.3t so I could go sequential with my Megasquirt, and it works great.

 

Here is a pretty good write up using a TFI dizzy.

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,20574.0.html

 

I have a question on this topic as well. I understand how to modify the dizzy for cam sync. I am running BS3 with Mallory dizzy with magnetic pickup. The pickup is mounted to a plate inside the dizzy and I am able to turn the pickup inside the dizzy 360* to point at any one of the eight tabs. My question is where is the ideal position to place the pickup? I can set the pickup at 60* BTDC exactly on #1 or should I have it at about 180* from #1 or somewhere in between. I am at the point where I am going to cut off the tabs and would like to know before I begin surgery. :noidea:

 

Are you running a crank trigger?

 

Sorry, Yes I am running a MSD crank sensor. Thought that was a gimmee.

 

This is from Fast. Should work with BS3 also.

If you are using the pickup in your distributor as a Cam input (for sequential operation):

The ECU requires a single cam input per engine cycle. So the distributor needs to have a single reluctor tab. On a typical V8 engine, the cam input can occur between 10* and 80* degrees before the crank input. So if the crank is set at 50* BTDC on cylinder #1, the cam can be set between 60* and 130* BTDC on cylinder #1. For example:

50* + 10* = 60*
50* + 80* = 130*

Roll the motor to somewhere in that range. Remove the cap and rotor and center the reluctor tab with the magnetic pickup in the distributor, then tighten the distributor hold down so the distributor housing can not move. If you have a phaseable rotor, roll the motor to wherever you plan to run your ignition timing at the RPM where your engine produces the most torque (30 degrees, as an example). Adjust the rotor position (WITHOUT rotating the distributor housing) until the rotor tip is directly lined up with the #1 spark plug terminal. If you do not have a phaseable rotor, you may need to reposition the reluctor wheel on the distributor shaft so that your rotor phase can be optimized while still positioning the cam input in the allowable range. If the cam input cannot be positioned in the allowable range, the firing order settings in the calibration file may need to be changed. See the Firing Order Synchronization section for more detail.

 

OK here goes. Ford 331 (Just for Reference) Modified Mallory Dizzy. MSD Crank Sensor at 50*: Check / Cam Sensor 60*: Check / Reluctor and Rotor Phased :Check. Big Comm does not show a sync signal from the Dizzy IDU. Double Checked everything. Followed Big Stuff directions to a T. What am I doing wrong?

 

I have two quick questions re the foregoing:

1. just wanted to know if all the steps outlined are done at the same moment you are standing over the engine. Meaning Find TDC on #1 compression, then drop distributor in with #1 terminal and rotor pointing to cylinder #1, then roll damper back to 50 deg BTDC , then install crank trigger with pick-up and magnet dead aligned, then roll the damper again to max power timing say 24 deg BTDC, then rotate dist housing so a reluctor tooth is dead aligned with pick-up, (mark that tooth for future ref when going to sequential), clamp housing and you are done if running B2B? Only then do you step away from the engine?

and

2. If running B2B, all i need to do is lock-out the distributor (per above) and not cut any teeth off reluctor? Still connect the cam sensor harness from the BS3 to the dist wire, and just tick "overide cam sync test" in the operating configuration screen?

Thanks.