Hi Brian,

I came across fitment issues with my turbo kit that I purchased. The first issue was the wastegate being so far out that I can't mount the abs and the mounting flange is so close to the frame that you can't even stick an allen wrench between. As far as the abs, I am now okay with this because I can remake lines and delete the abs. The second issue is that the crossover pipe is so far front that I can't mount the overflow tank even if I move it over as you said because it will hit the wastegate area. The third issue is that I can't mount the a/c compressor because it hits the driver side header collector. Finally, the downpipe just barely touches the a/c drip outlet on the firewall. I am using the energy suspension motor mounts as specified. The bad part of remaking the kit is that I already spent a lot to jet hot coat this inside and out.
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This shows the distance between the driver side collector and the frame.
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This picture shows how the compressor has to move further back to bolt on.
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Wow read 293 times and no one responded. I had only heard good things about B&G. Did you contact them about the issues?

 

They were built for afr 185's he then installed them on afr 205's which are raised slightly he had asked me after he had the headers if they would work on 205's I told him I didnt see why not, welp now we know...... Being raised caused the waste gate to be closer and the collector to hit his a/c. He sent it in and we bolted it to the mock up car with a stock type head and it fit, though the crossover still required the overflow to be moved. The overflow needed to be moved towards the pass side, but the gate placement didnt allow this on his chassis. He sent it in and we are working him up a new set that will leave him plenty of clearance. (basically a highport set.)

 

Hi Brian

Do you have any updates on the status of the new kit? Also, did the measurements that I gave you match up with the ones that you have?

Thanks

 

Update. I had Brian make me a new kit since the other one didn't fit. So after waiting about 3 months, I recivied the kit and started to fit everything. The a/c now clears and I can now use my overflow can because the crossover isn't sticking out anymore. The wastegate is now further away from the frame rail, but then when I try to fit the turbo it ends up hitting the hood. Keep in mind this is only a t-70 precision turbo not like a s475 turbo. We made a spacer and lifted the back of the trans to the floor pan, but the turbo is still hitting the hood. After looking at other peoples 94-95 installs, it appears that mine also sits a lot more forward and really close to the inner fender. I also can't place an air filter on because it would hit the hood prop area.
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Trying to figure out the purpose of the thread, or the pics of the second kit you got. Have talked to Brian before you come here ? I think that's the decent thing to do first. Let him try to fix it before letting the world know there is a problem. Just me. I would want to know about a problem with my stuff before half of TTF.com

 

Yes I emailed and called him. I tried his recommendations and it still didn't do much. I sent him these pics on saturday and he told me to call him back as he would be in, but no one answered the phone and got no response to my emails. I forgot to mention that this set me back a few hundred $$ as I paid to coat the other kit and had to pay for shipping to and from him.

 

As stated on the phone try raising the back of the transmission and see if it starts to help if it does we have a easy fix.

From what i see your motor is way to high add a set of 94-95 motor mounts and call it a day.. Why is it so high? I have no idea. But that t-4 flange should be jammed down on that pinch rail.

I run a machine shop. Im the only one employee here on weekends.... keep trying when it is a weekend.... The only time I can here the phone in the shop is when everything is off. No doubt I got your email. I'm still stuck on answering emails from mid last month. I only average about 50 new emails per day. You should know that by now as I told you before the fastest way to get ahold of me is to call. if i dont answer hang up and call back in a few mins.

Second cost here isn't nothing to complain about.. Yea you lost a few hundred in coating, in return I made you a one off 1 3/4 race kit custom to your specs, programmed and cut new flanges to match your gaskets. Made the merge exactly how you wanted it. If your motor was where it supposed to be this wouldnt be a issue. The kit you now have would have cost someone over 1700.00 if they called in and ordered it. Cost to you... shipping plus your old kit. I thought it was a fair deal.

Yes the first one hit the over flow. And yes it hit your compressor, cause your kit was made for afr 185's and you went to alot higher port. It fit fine on our mock up, we resold it and as far as I know it fit fine on his car too.

I believe i went above and beyond to keep you happy. The kit will fit get the motor where it needs to be. Or send the kit back and we'll give you a full refund.

 

I have the energy suspension motor mounts that you required your kits use. So I used those. I don't have much room to lower the motor as the oil pan will hit the steering rack. The space between the pan and the rack is so small that I had to slide a folded piece of newspaper in there to make sure it wasn't resting on the pan. The pics shown are after the spacer was placed between the trans and the trans mount. I can't space it up any higher as the trans is already really close to hitting the floor pan. It did help a little, but I can't take it up any higher. Even if I somehow get it to lower, doesn't the turbo look like it is sitting way forward? I would think you made the kit like how it is sitting because the downpipe fits perfectly through that tight space without touching anything. As for the compressor hitting, I don't think it was because of the heads because 205s only have 1/4" raised ports. For the compressor to clear it wouldve needed way more room than that. Also, that still doesn't explain why you made my crossover pipe go way forward that I couldn't do anything with my overflow can. Only reason why I mentioned price was because the previous poster was asking why I was posting pics and stuff. I mean who wouldn't be fustrated if they waited so long to get the car going and these things keep occuring and more and more money needs to be dumped in just to get a kit to fit. A kit that others have probably spent half on with no problems like me. As for calling back, I called you at least 7 times and no answer. I called 45 mins after I hung up with you and called every 15mins. My mods shouldn't have been a problem this time because I told you specifically what type of block I had, k-member, and even gave you the measurements that you wanted.

 

There has to be a reason it is sitting so high. That t-4 flange needs to be on that pinch rail. If it's not it will not fit.

You are saying if you had the stock motor mounts on the car that the oil pan would hit the rack? If so then there is a k member issue.
Cause the pan should fit with the stock motor mounts on the car.
The stock sn mounts are 1.250 shorter then the energy suspension mounts. We actually used the energy suspension mounts to raise the motors so the kits would have more sway bar mount clearance. Which reminds me, how much room do you have to the sway bar as it should only be like .50 of a inch.



The airfilter location is very tight on all sn's that why i recommend the truck elbow and a huge filter in the fender well area.

 

i just read the pm, your not going to use a normal 4 inch elbow. You need a turbo inlet elbow that is used on Ford F-700's give me a min and ill find that for you.

 

Ford heavy truck part number:
FGHZ-9B613-a

you must get this at a ford sterling dealer. A ford car truck dealer can not get this part!

 

Yes I only have about .5 from the sway bar. I told you I had a QA1 k-member and you told me before that it shouldn't be a problem. QA1 k-members have raised rack location to fix the steering angle on lowered cars, therefore making it closer to the oil pan. The motor mounts didn't really seem to make a difference in height. I also mentioned that I had an iron eagle dart block (one with 4 bolts on all mains) with a canton aluminum oil pan. Also, the crossover v-band flanges don't line up as great as they did on the previous kit. They seem to be a hair short so when I press the pipe to make it sit flush it slightly turns the flange. When tightening the clamp you can see the flange wanting to stick out. Any ideas of how I can lower the motor? As much as possible I want to stay away from cutting the hood. Also, is the turbo supposed to be that close to the inner fender. I know it is hard to tell how much room that is, but it isn't more than 1/4". I also went on your forum and the pics still looks as if the turbo on the other 95 is sitting further back towards the strut tower.

 

Yep that turbo housing will be pretty close. A k member not being exactly centered can also close that gap up a good bit.

That kit was built on our mock up car, by my hands with a stock k member(which is the same placement as the qa1) with energy suspension motor mounts.

Everything was built by hand so all flanges should fit nice. If they dont fit quite away, try swapping ends of crossover it may be backwards.

If they are just slightly off this can be caused just by how the head flange surface has been milled. Not all heads are created equal. Even a small angle here can make huge differences at the crossover.

There should be 1.25 difference between the stock motor mounts and the energy suspension mounts.

 

I also mention before that I had the motor mounts on the front two slots of the k member as there are three slots. Placing in the back slot would give me more room, but this would cause the downpipe to hit the firewall as it clears perfectly now. It would also have my shifter line up better as the tko trans is sitting a little more forward than the stock trans. I tried using the crossover both ways that the other way was worst off. I'm not too worried as long as it wont leak because it bolted on. This still doesn't solve my issue with the turbo sitting high. Even if I clear the pan, I would have to smash it the floor pan to allow the trans to go more up.

 

8.7 deck height ??

 

No its not because we measured the block prior to building it. Also if it were, the crossover would be much more off as I still managed to get the clamp to go on.

 

How much is your turbo hitting the hood?

As an option, you can try and take some aluminum or steel plates and shim it between the mounting pad of the k member and the frame of the car to lower the height of the turbo. Doing so will lower your overall motor height and not change your oil pan to rack distance. To fix the oil pan to rack problem, you can try offset rack bushings and install them upside down. That will give you a little more room between the rack and the oil pan. If you decide to shim the k member, you will need a bump steer kit to fix the bump steer once you shim the k member. If you have to shim more then 1/2in, then i think i there is some major issue either with the kit or your k member.

It might be more cost affective to actually move your motor to a different slot and shorten the downpipe. Make the downpipe into 2 sections and v band it. It make doing the plugs alot easier. Shipping stuff back and forth and have to wait sucks. You should be able to find someone local that can weld and fix the kit to fit your k member.

From my experience, between updates and varies companys, there is too much variable between k members from one company to another.

 

Yeah. Thanks for the info. After looking at the turbo merge, I think the safest and easiest thing to do is to cut the turbo flange off and shorten the section under here by an 1". From here I would probably have to modify the downpipe as it probably will hit the passenger side primary tubes. I really don't want to mess with the steering with spacers and what not. Also, I think I would need at least 3/4" to clear the hood. Just wish I could have one of those typical glory stories of how it went on perfect.

 

did it on my car. it was a piece of cake

https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=111398.50