All depends on how much and how long you're in the boost. Just putzing around town and the pipe might get steady state to the 100 deg F mark (whatever your normal IAT is at would be a good estimate). If you do a top speed run, then I would imagine it would get well over 200 deg F. Now the return pipe would be much cooler but it could also get over 100 deg F in an extended run. That is pretty thick-walled pipe (11 ga) compared to normal so it has a little more thermal mass to heat up versus a standard 16-ga piece.

All in all, you won't want to be using it as an arm-rest but you could always use some heat-wrap where you thought it would be a risk for getting touched.

 

Cool, thanks for the reply! Love the build by the way. Especially that Gas Tank!!

 

So what's the problem? having the filter at all, it being in the box or what? and for that matter, what is the problem? Seems like a rather sane solution for something that is not a pure race car.

 

thats a clean build. I love all of the aluminum work, I'm a little jealous.

 

beautiful work, but what is the "surge tank" for?

I love the air box.

 

Any details on the motor or is that confidential? That thing is sick!

 

Good work my friend...

 

I'm lazy so I'm just going to borrow Meziere's explanation which is on the money:
WE100B - Expansion Tank

In applications where our 200 Series pumps are not available or suitable, we recommend our WE100 expansion tank. A properly plumbed expansion tank can cure many cooling problems associated with trapped air. The tanks work great when used in conjunction with a remote pump. The pump has a full size radiator cap opening on the top, a -8 AN female fitting on the bottom and 2 1/4 NPT fittings on the sides. The tanks come in a variety of colors and finishes.

Expansion Tank Info:
An expansion tank is sometimes referred to as a surge tank, header tank or air separator. The tank has two main functions. It is used as a fill point when the top of your radiator is lower than the engine's water outlet. The bottom of the tank is plumbed to the low pressure (suction) side of the cooling system (after the radiator core and before the pump impeller). The smaller fitting on the upper portion of the tank is plumbed to the high points on the engine and radiator to remove trapped air and aerated water. This reservoir located high and out of the main flow of water allows air to be purged from the system, making the entire cooling system more efficient.

This part number features:

* Constructed from 2"x3"x.125" rectangle aluminum tube.
* Billet radiator cap provision with a locking cap feature in the top.
* 2 side ports (1/4 NPT) for the high pressure connections.
* Bottom port is #8AN which is to be connected to the low pressure side.
* 2 crosstubes are welded into the tank for mounting on 5" vertical center to center.
* There is a 1/4 through hole and a 5/16-18 thread in these tubes.
* Blue anodized finish.

 

355 cubes with out of the box 23 deg AFR heads. 8.5:1 with a ~.600" lift cam and I think the duration is in the high 240's at 0.050. It's comprised of 100% used parts but hopefully nothing breaks!

 

Had a wedding on one of the weekends and been ordering parts in the meantime but we made a little progress.

Passenger side coilpack mount:
#ad


It'll get painted and all that jazz once everything comes off the car after everything has a home.

#ad


Breather tank pretty much done:
#ad


Here's a 2-D template of what the crank sensor bracket mating surface will look like:
#ad


Here is a screenshot from Solidworks showing what the final bracket will look like (got it quoted end of last week and I'll have the two pieces made this week and then make the gussets and have Pat weld them once we get it positioned):
#ad

 

Done for the night:
#ad

#ad

#ad

 

damn guys, your stuffs looking sexy sean....pats skills have improved night and day

 

Done for the night:
#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad

 

I also like the airbox cool idea

 

It's sitting on the engine dyno and we'll be making rips this week. I'm so pumped about this thing right now!!!

 

Pic look great!!! I was wondering about the air-water IC. I have an air-air and was thinking of going to Air-water. Do you have to do anything special with the Air-water on the street? Do you just run it dry and run low boost? I am only running 5-6lbs on the street so I thought I could get away with minimal intercooler??

 

I run it with water in it. The heat will dissipate out of the water slowly but if you want to speed up the process then you can run a heat exchanger with its own fan in the back. I've never seen super high IATs on the street but I'll let you know if this setup is any different. To be honest, I didn't even run the intercooler pump on the street unless I was going to race a bike on the highway. lol

 

Selling the GM cam sync since it won't work with the taller intake and going with a cam pulley mounted magnet on the front of the motor.

PN: 1104068

I am selling this because my intake is too tall for this setup. It fits all standard height sbc setups and can be spaced out to fit with raised cam blocks (have this setup on buddy's car). This is the piece that a lot of guys who want to run COP with big stuff 3 use and I would be using it myself if it would engage my oil pump drive shaft.



It has been modified so that it can be adjustable so you can make the falling edge occur in an optimum location for the big stuff 3.

I paid $265.80 for it shipped to my house from the best deal I could find and that was only on April 20th, 2009 (less than 2 months ago).

I would like to get $225 shipped and it will save you the time of having to modify it yourself which isn't difficult but it's one less step!

Emails to

This content is protected

or PM me on here.

Pic of new setup:
#ad

 

Very nice build any more photos/progress?

 

It's on the dyno as I type. Just need to get the new cam sync on there and then it's ready to rip. I would guess early next week for some numbers.