Well my fears have come to light. I suspected i may have had an issue with oil in the water resevoir. it was just a little and i was hopeing it just came from the build and maybe some oil ended up in a water passage. i now have 200 miles on the new motor and when i checked the resovoir tonight i had 1/4 inch of oil sitting ontop of the water in the resovoir. So i know i have an issue. I looked at the oil cap and found that white milk looking color which would indicate i have water in the oil.



did a compression test and it could not have been any better, it was 150 PSI in every cylinder except 1 (pasenger side had one cilynder that was 147 ). i did not find anything wrong at all. number 8 had something on the plug when i pulled it out,either water or fuel,but the compression was perfect in that cilynder, and nothing came out on the compression tester when i did the test.



im not sure exactly where to start, i dont want to tear into it too much with out knowing where the problem is.



i can only think of a few places where oil and water cross:

headgaskets

oil filter mount



i dont think the water has effected the bearings yet,i have not heard any knocking. i believe the contamination to be minimal.



any suggestions on how to find the issue other than a compresion test?

 

stupid question....
Did you bleed the cooling system after you started your engine?

 

did you check the deck surfaces on the block and on the head, what head gaskets, studs or bolts, and what were they torqued to

 

motor had 12k miles on it when it was tore apart for the internals to be replaced. only issue prior to that was bending the # 8 rod. i never checked the head or the block just because it should not have been a issue. machine shop cleaned the block and i cleaned the heads before i put them on.im using the mls gaskets OEM i got from MMR.

arp fastners @ 100 ft lbs in the correct seqence using arp lube.

im not even sure how to bleed the cooling system, i just kept adding water.

compression test showed each cylinder identical to the next.

i re-used the gasket for the oil filter mount becuase it was rubber,didnt think it would be an issue.im wondering if there is a problem with that gasket,both water and oil go thru that gasket.

 

id be willing to bet that its the head gaskets but checking the adapter is easier and the gasket can tear although that is rare. where did you get the torque spec for the studs

 

I also would like to know the proper way to bleed the cooling system, Not to steal thread but how could this cause water in the oil? Also, I can pull my upper radiator hose off my manifold and theres no coolant in the hose does this mean its getting air, or not all the way full? there is still plenty in the expansion tank and i havent had and overheating probs so far, I thought the small hose ontop of the expansion tank is to help bleed off the air...Thanks

 

broken oil cooler?

 

Im looking at my spare block and i would check the gasket on the oil filter mount first, looking at the deck and heads i don't really see how that could happen unless your deck is off or a warped head.Or bad gasket's and that would be rare.(I THINK )

 

Air pocket.
I see all the time @ the shop when people try to do their own work...

 

im curious also how an air pocket would cause oil/water mix?

 

Head gasket. You should always check the head surface when building a motor to ensure that they are flat.

 

I also like to check the bores on any type of internal failure. When a rod bends, it can distort the piston in the bore, and crack the sleave.

 

Will cause a blown head gasket.

 

right. i knew that.
only under really extreme, rare cases though right?

 

Do you have the oil cooler option at the oil filter mounting location? That would be the most probable leak area. You may have dropped it, bumped it when R&Ring the engine. I currently have mine apart and was examining the gasket for the lower water hose/oil filter housing adapter. For that gasket to cause your complaint there would have to be two sealing surfaces to fail. You would also have an external leak of both fluids. There is the possibility of a piece of hair (or something like that, rag etc.), tape, or a gouge in the block or housing to get a cross leak, and even then, you will still have an external leak. Has your oil level dropped? How much? Were there signs of the rod hitting the block? I would lean towards a head gasket. Can you remove the valve covers and recheck the torque of the head bolts? You didn't have oil in the coolant after you bent the rod right? You ran the engine for a little bit to try and diagnose the noise. If you cracked the block I would think you would have had oil/water mix in cooling system on the old engine.

 

I Do my own work and this is starting to scare me, to much $ in my motor, what is the proper way to bleed the system, Run it with the cap off for a while? Dosent the Degasser tank/expansion tank help bleed off air pockets??

 

The only way an air pocket could cause a problem with a head gasket is if you overheat the car. The air pocket can cause coolant circulation issues, leading to over heating. (The stock temp gauge doesn't always read properly.)

Otherwise, start by pulling the oil cooler and checking the gasket/seal.

I can't think of any other places you can get oil other than the head, though.

 

motor has never been overheated or even close.bent the #8 rod from being at the track all day and heat soaked the stock rods, then the wastegate i had on it before allowed for a 11PSI spike causing the rod to bend.

compression test was perfect so i dont see how it could be a head gasket. machine shop take care of the cilinders and block,block should be perfect.i would think if i had a head/block issue it would show up on a compression test.

i got the head gaskets from MMR,i just ordered 07 GT OEM gaskets and thats what they say they shipped.they were different them my OEM gaskets but all the holes lined up so i just thought it was a revised gasket.

 

I guess he is not going to tell us how to bleed the cooling system

 

let it warm up with no rad cap til its to running temp.