Thats good info I wish I knew that when I switched from a stick to auto. I was pulling timing out still to try and make boost.
DOH!

 

works great, on a RWD car....

 

No good on front drivers?

 

I don't think it's too to drag the tiny rear tires.

 

I can see dragging A$$ being bad.LOL

I would think standing on the brakes with fronts being stronger than rears. and adding the e brake may help out just do to the ratio givin front to back.

 

You probably have already thought of this, but have you gotten a quote to have the converter your using rebuilt?

I know they can tweak the fins and seal it back up to get a higher stall. Sounds like you need another 500-1000RPMs at the line.

 

If you were pulling timing and leaning it out that is why you burnt some pistons.
stick less timing richer
auto more timing leaner
So someone doesn't get confused this is for on the line only.

SMG little confused are you having trouble pushing through the brakes on the line or is it hard to get spooled(tight converter)? Or both?

 

I forgot he doesn't have a transbrake. So an auto needs more timing while trying to build boost transbrake or not?

 

footbraking or transbreak as long as the motor has a load on it

I should calify I have never messed with these small ci motors so I have never tuned on a car that required more than 15 psi launch.

So say you boosted chicken had an auto you are trying to leave with more than 15psi I would start riching it up form this point on.

All I mess with is intercooled and running c16 or q16. Never had a problem doing this on the line but as always small changes on the tune.

 

on a FWD the rear brakes have no effect on overcoming engine torque until the front tires start turning, by then it's too late.

 

Im having problems with both at the moment... Now bear in mind the car has only been down the track 6 times so I really hadn't messed with the tune down low to help it spool up quicker but i thank everyone much for the tips of getting it spooled quicker... I will definitely try some of the suggested thoughts...I think they will definitely help. With that said... yes I am pushing through the brakes and have come to the conclusion that i need some stronger brakes....the stockers wont help. I can't say that I NEED the new converter YET... only because I have only been able to get about 3psi at the line without pushing through and I feel I truely havent been able to Stall the converter to its trun potential at the line...Which then comes back to the slow spooling... if I could get 10-12 psi at the line my slow spooling prob would be non exsistant so I think my first task is getting it to build starting line boost.

I have thrown timing in the car while brake loading it since this thread started... and was able to get 5-6psi now however it went right to pushing through the brakes so I think brakes will more than likely be my first task....make sense to everyone?

NOW... I REALLY like the boost side wastegate...I found an old thread on that on here yesterday but cant see any of the pics of the setup etc... anyone have anything like this setup on their car? Would this cause some serious wear on the wheel once the boost gate closes??? would it cause some compressor surge when it closes? any thoughts? this might be a decent idea with out having to go nuts with trying to fab up dual piston race brakes to the car....

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone again who has participated in this thread... it had turned out very well and apreciate the advice.

 

If you end up needing more converter what some of the glide and t400 guys end up doing is cutting down the feed to the converter on the line. I haven't messed with this so I don't know how much more stall it will get you or if it could be done with your trans. Rossler would proably be able to help on this.

 

so are you saying essentially dropping line pressure to the line feeding the converter???

 

Yes they restrict the flow to the converter to the point were it is not feeding the converter fast enough to stay full. I think they start filling it again once they are on the transbrake. I'm not sure how long it would tighten up if you have it wired to the linelock. May work ok I'm not real fimilar with it.

 

A friend of mine has one of these. He calls it a "switch pitch" converter. It actually has nothing to do with the converter itself but the fluid line going to it as stated. On the line with the converter "on" it stalls to about 5500, He runs it to third and then turns the converter "off" and it makes his t400 feel like a 4 speed. He said he picked up mph big time. The converter is a big 11 or 12 inch unit. It holds up behind his built cleveland with a 500 shot. I think a guy in El Paso did it for him.

 

Below is a picture (taken from Bridge Racing) of what a dual caliper setup looks like for the rear. I'm not entirely sure how/if you could do that for the fronts. But it may give you some creative ideas.

#ad

 

Re: Starting Line Spooling tips... looking for some of your thoughts on my dilem

Thats a sweet set up.

 

that is one sweet brake setup... im not sure i could do that either but... does give me an idea or two... hmmmm