Yes..........you need it with the fuel system you have.

 

WOOOO HOOOOO

well guys here it is..hopefully this will help.now the fuel system is done

#ad

 

nice.....are you SURE your done???

I don't see a boost ref. line going to the regulator.

One thing for future reference, that 90* fitting you used on the inlet side are supposedly pretty flow restrictive from what I've heard. The type like you have on the outlets to the carb are much better. Just what I've heard.

Craig

 

:agree:

 

The first pic of a 13202 is about 5 years old, sorry for any confusion! Customer feedback dictated we remove the gauge port and set up another -8 ORB so you could run up to 4 outlet lines. Also, our vacuum/boost barb fitting changed from brass to stainless steel about the same time.

$25.00 for the SS -4 AN adapter! Yikes, that can't be right... maybe $20.00 LOL! By the by, we do now offer a -8 AN port plug that's pre-drilled and tapped for 1/8" NPT, just can't remember the P/N off the top. I'll try to remember and get it tomorrow, post it up then.

 

Sorry I was off by 5 bucks Brett! Remember me? Ritchie w/ R&R brought me and my pump down to your old shop to play on the fuel pump dyno a few years ago. Looking foward to Rippies car coming out this year!

 

You're both wrong, it's $21.99 from Summit. Sorry, had to bust your balls, I'm bored and some prick managing partner from a local Ford dealer that is rumored to be closing just called and tried to act like a big shot and pissed me off. I hope the cock sucker dies in his sleep.

 

Fear the Goatsey!

 

No fuel pressure port on the newer style?

 

You can substitute one of the -8 fuel out ports for a gauge or put it inline. The reg used to only have 3 outlets (to carb) and a gauge port about 5 years ago. They had to make it alitle friendlier for the dual quad guys.

 

If you have a parker fittings dealer nearby, ask for an "4-8F50X" which is a -8 O-ring x -4 AN fitting. Priced much lower than aluminum fittings too.

 

who is parker ?????i do need the -8 oring fitting to except the gauge

 

we need part numbers..please

 

I get a smoking deal at a place called Tompkins Industries. I can usually buy stainless fittings cheaper than aluminum.

 

OK, use P/N 15619 for the stainless steel, 1/16" NPT to -4 AN adapter. It Jobbers for $16.57 (typical "street" price), which is why I said "more like $20.00 LOL"; I really thought $20.00 was high and I was being funny . Wanted to make sure though, that my recollection was correct . Anyone is entitled to sell whatever they buy, to someone else, for whatever they'll pay, it's a free-market economy. :ripped: However you boys might want to shop that one a bit, maybe with someone local.

Use P/N 15637 for the new -8 AN ORB port plug, drilled and tapped with 1/8" NPT for a pressure gauge or fuel pressure sending unit. Jobber is $11.41.

Anyone quotes me on this and I'm pro'lly gonna get fired, , oh well!

 

good info
ive got a ????
why does eromotive put such a dinky small fitting on the regulator..i mean they have to know its useless huh...but i supose i need to now risk messing up the top when i have to put it in the vise and drill out the fitting and retap it.....just my .02

 

Well, it seems like a simple thing doesn't it, but here's the deal;

First, the regulator cap not only creates a solid structure for the spring to be compressed against the piston/diaphragm assembly, it also has to be the right I.D. to be able to guide the spring when compressed, so it can only be slightly larger than the spring.

Second, the cap thickness cannot be so great as to add unnecessary bulk or weight to the regulator assmebly, so the O.D. isn't that much greater than the I.D., in other words it's strong but not overly thick.

Now, it get's a little more complicated to 'splain, but with a nominal material thickness, and not a lot of clearance from the inside of the cap to the spring, you have to be careful not to allow anything threaded into the cap to protrude in and hang the spring, preventing the regulator from working. Also, you don't have a lot of meat there, so the the bigger the diameter of the hole, the larger the exposure vs thread engagement to allow a leak.

I know that 1/16" NPT sound dinky, but NPT is deceptive. To drill a hole for tapping 1/16" NPT you get out your letter D bit and punch a hole that's .2460", or about 1/4". Jump to 1/8" NPT and you're drilling with an R bit at .3390". All we're trying to do is allow pressure to equalize between the intake and the regualtor cap, there's virtually no "flow" in CFM, as the cap is sealed to the base, so when you go to -4 AN the bore through the entire fitting is true, -4 AN, or just under 1/4". This get's the job done in spades, with a good seal and small risk of spring bind.

Now, if you really wanna pull out the big gun and start drilling, well have at it

Seriously, again it's seems like a stupid little thing, but them engineers have their reasons! Hope this helps.

 

Nah, Jay you wanna use the -4 line because it looks cool! The regualtor is tapped for 1/16" pipe so you can remove the barb fitting and buy the special fittings from them we've been talking about.

 

What I thought was interesting and kinda cool was that my F2 kit from ProCharger included a 1/16" stainless NPT fitting to 1/4" push lock hose. Almost like that fitting was made SPECIFICALLY for that regulator.....weird.

'Course it went in the drawer when I ordered the $20+ 4an fitting for it to run braided line.

Craig