I'm on part 50 of my MS build.
I'm going to use a Crane HI-6 IGN on a 2.3T and a TFI dizzy.
I'm doing the mod (the added resistor to D2) on DIYautotune's website.
I take it I'm still supposed to follow all steps in 50-a.?
Also, can someone explain a real simple question.. Is it the converted PIP/tach signal that tell the MS when to fire the ign?

Edit: I have most of this figured out.. any input would still be great..

 

can't really help you.... my ms should be in this week, then i'll be asking questions also! what version did you get?

 

I grabbed the MS I, Version 3 pcb. I think I somehow burnt up my stimulator. It's not doing what it's supposed to and not testing out like it should. I'm pissed at myself, because I read, and re-read the instructions and can't find anything I did wrong.

 

The PIP signal is what tells the MS when to fire the ignition (and the fuel for that matter). The PIP signal actually occurs a number of degrees before the rotor is in contact with the cap. In the MS software, you program this "trigger offset" so the MS knows where the terminal on the cap is relative to the trigger.

As far as the other questions, I don't have the manual in front of me, so not sure off the top of my head. If you get to a test point that isn't working, STOP and figure out why... don't carry on or you'll just complicate things further.

What's the stim not doing?

 

Okay, I made a couple mistakes...
I installed the t1 the wrong direction.. that got me my RPM's
This is where it gets weird. I found a post where someone stated how to test the LED's on the stim. Mine wouldn't light up. So I switched the polarity of the battery around for the test and they lit up.
I thought i had the pollarity of the battery backwards, but I didn't since I tried testing it like that with the partial Megasquirt and it would NOT work at all. So I pulled the LED's and flipped them around, installed the battery with the correct pollarity. Now they light up when tested, but they are NOT installed like the instructions say.

 

That's what I thought too. If you are using a 9 v battery on the stim just throw that away. You need to use a wallwart. I use an old charger from a cellphone. The squirt will drain a 9v in short order and then strange things happen. If you do a search for wallwart over at msefi.com you will find the specs needed for the power supply.

Good luck.

RV

 

You guys purchased the stim with an assembled unit? I see that DIY recommends doing that but I was just curious as to what you guys felt. My other question is if it is really necessary to purchase an LM-1 kit running megasquirt? Doesn't the LC-1 allow you to send the same data to the MS for reading on the laptop? I'm looking to buy my setup this week or next but I'm still looking around to get any info that I can.

thank ahead

 

Yes, I'm gonna use the LC-1 on my setup. Sitting in a box on the stereo stand right now, have my holes drilled for it. If you want a standalone, get the LM-1 if you're looking to either use it with the MS or have a laptop with you all the time the LC-1 will do.

 

None of what I bought was assembled. It's amazing how easy it really is. If you have a shaky hand, you might wanna pass. Also, you need to have a good command of soldering because some of the leads get REALLY close, and can't have any overlapping solder.
DIYautotune is the bomb. They helped me out with every problem and stupid question I had. Most questions can be answered at MSEFI.com
THe instructions are really really good, IMO.

 

thanks for the heads up on the wide band. I will get an assembled kit for sure but the need for an LC-1 vs LM-1 had me thinking. I'm still looking into just getting the LM-1 basic. I think its $350 or so and I'd like to not need a laptop in there all the time. I'm not sure if i got an answer on the stimulator? Did you think its needed with an assembled kit?

thanks for the info

 

I assembled my ms so I needed the stim. I can't really see why you would need one with an assembled kit. Ask jerry over a DIY why he believes you should have one. He is a standup guy and I think he will give it to you straight.

As for the lm vs lc wideband. Are you going to constantly monitor your A/F? Maybe I am missing something as I haven't dug into the tuning aspect of MS just yet but I am plannning to get the lc and then setup my fuel tables and forget it. I say save the $150 for something else. Anybody else have any thoughts on that comment?

RV

 

The other thing is that if you wanna keep a gauge the LC-1 does have two analog outputs, you can set one up as an analog AFR gauge for a standard digital gauge and then use the other one as an output for your Megasquirt. If you're looking for datalogging go with the LM-1. If you've got electronics bench gear (oscilloscope, signal generator DVM etc.) you can definitely get away without the stim. If it's assembled it's dubious that you'd need it if the box was tested, it's for troubleshooting it when it doesn't work

 

I also bought the LC-1 and a gauge. When i want to datalog, i'll just put the laptop in. Best price on LC-1 from these guys.....must mention theturboforums.com discount in email!!

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Yeah, definitely get the stimulator. It's nice to have in order to try new features out on the bench. For example, I actually have mine hooked up as I type this and have been playing with fan control outputs and verifying that the hysterisis I want is actually working.

We all know B&G and the rest of the development team have a lot on their plate, but it would be nice to have a more comprehensive stimulator. One that would allow you to monitor lots of different outputs (IAC1A, IAC1B, etc..). Kind of an updated version for the MS-II/V3.00 stuff...

And I'll second the reccomendation of DIYAutoTune. I've placed probably 6 seperate orders from him in the last year and without exception, customer service has been perfect. Jerry even sold me a MS-II daughtercard by itself, during the timeframe when they weren't really available like that..