Have no idea what went wrong, but something definaly did!! no detonation, 10psi or less, 1st gear roll on very easy and I get this!!

On a good note, as you see I'm already painting and preping everything to go back in.. There will defintaly be a nice surprise in the engine bay in the next couple weeks or less.

I ordered the engine, flexplate ( needed an 8 bolt for auto trans), oil pump, all gaskets, head studs, Cometics, and will be doing alot of paint work.. I hope to have this car back on the road by next weekend ( 7-10th). Machine shop has my head ( getting 2 new valves, valve job and cleaning up).



Engine specs are :
Livernois Motorsport 4.6l new block, Cobra crank, Manely H beams, Mahle pistons (16cc), Fed Mogul bearings, Arp main studs. I'm going to gasket match the heads, and exhaust manifolds for a tad more flow, although I doubt it'll help much.



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WOW! You definately talked me out of putting the turbo kit on my wifes car! Was the car even tuned yet?

 

well you sure did break it good The real question is how did she feel for that split second that it held together? Good luck and I hope you get her back on the road soon. Also... how did your wife react?

 

wow sorry to hear that

 

ok, this might be a stupid question but are you sure the cylinder no.1 injector plug was in? The electrical plug?? this seem all too familiar from my friends car..

 

Yes the car was tuned, but only from a mail order tune which I shouldnt have trusted full fledge.

Have no idea the h/p I was pushing before it broke, but from my past car, this one felt like I was in the high 200's or low 300 hp range before letting go.. Not nearly enough RPM or brute power to brake anything.

The Cobra crank is brand new, the motor was stock ( that took a shit) the motor listed is the one I had built
The car lasted about 5 seconds before letting go.

Don't have a wife thank god, but my g/f and father both said told you so.. and why did you turbo that car, lol..

And to the best question of them all... and possibly the cause of this.. I never did think to blame an injector plug, how F'ing silly of me, but in all truth I believe that might have been the cause. I did not even think of this before you mentioned it, but I very well could have missed plugging #1 in, since it's jammed up front, and I was working from the rear ( closest to #5 injector plug).. That would explain the stumble at idle, and lack of power as I rolled on, and the sudden damage without any real explination.


Needless to say what's done is done, and next time I will pay MUCH more attention to detail, as this mistake just cost me over $4 grand

 

i had a feeling, it's ok man don't feel too bad, it happens, but i totally understand you though, being excited to turn it on forgetting about the injectors, but hey look at it this way now you have a much stronger motor and a chace to turn the boost up.

 

Yea, that's how I have to look at it I suppose..

That and I figure I can make something special out of it, while Im waiting on parts to arrive. Just like my 94, I already see this car going in that direction.. and it's already started with the engine bay. We'll anyhow I'll be away till Sunday/Monday, but I'll be sure to post up new pictures as I make more headway on this project.

 

How many miles did you have on that motor? By the crosshatching, not too many At least with the new shortblock you will be able to really turn up the boost. I don't know how many times I have been working under the hood of my car and leave the #8 injector plug off. I have thought something was wrong with mine many of times when it skips after I mess with something, turns out to be the injector plug.

 

How would leaving an injector unplugged cause the wrist pin to tear out of the bottom of the piston? If the injector is unplugged, then that cylinder cannot run lean, because it cannot run at all (air by itself won't ignite...otherwise, we'd all be in big trouble lol)...and that makes it really hard to kill that particular piston with only a bad tune. I don't see it as your fault.

It looks like the rod is still relatively straight, or (at least) not bent 180* as previously assumed by others.

Got any pics of the valvetrain side of #1?

Mark

 

Well, the combustion the fuel+air+spark pushes the piston down therefore turning the crank and powering the wheels, if there is no combustion then that would mean that the only thing bring that piston down is the crank, the crank is yanking on that one piston and when put undera heavy load and higher rpms, maybe 2-3k that piston would've been yanked so hard that it would come apart, and that looks like what has happened here, that piston has been shattered by the brute pulling force of the crank notice the Rod still has a piece of the piston is it's grasp..and thats why it's straight, it's been pulled

 

Gee, thanks for the elementary fuel+air+spark lesson. However, you're forgetting that, although there is no combustion, the intake valve still opened, air was forced into the cylinder, and the piston was compressing ONLY AIR on the upstroke. There is far more resistance by compressing air (especially at above-atmospheric levels) on a combustionless upstroke than there is on any exhaust stroke. So, again, I'm not sure how unplugging one injector would have done that kind of damage to that cylinder.

By your logic, I guess every engine would blow itself to shit as soon as the owner ran it out of gas...lol

Don't worry, I fully understand that the chances of a connecting rod or wrist pin failure is much greater on the exhaust stroke than the compression stroke, due to the relative lack of cylinder pressure to help the piston change direction.

The rod likely still has some amount of bending in it, since it obviously donkey-punched the shit out of the piston.

Mark

 

I agree with you Mark. Inda10s car was a good example. One of his injectors was not firing at all. His piston and valves on that cylinder looked brand new (it was just put together). He dynoed 500+rw like that and there was no damage to that cylinder or on the hg. One or two of his other injectors were firing but not enough (crappy injector set obviously). He pushed the hg out on those cylinders.

Maybe he will chime in if he says this but the pictures definately spoke for themselves.

 

I also agree with TurboShortBus... if the piston being pulled down by the crank caused massive engine failure then every n/a motor taking in air on the Intake stroke would blow it's self to pieces! I also like the example of running out of gas Can't tell you how many motors I'd have blown if that were true!

 

If that were the case then the piston would break on the intake stroke as there is nothing pushing the piston down at that point as well. Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.

 

Tomatoe tamata

 

Just a suggestion, and it sounds like you have little time on it since completion. Pull your intake valve and check the intake runners for evidence of debris in there, or marks of something that may have bounced through there. Seeing the intake valve is obviously bent, which yes its possible it could have happened while the piston was self distructing. See if you can make out if anything went through there. See if anything got sandwiched in the seat. Also, may go through the debris in the pan and see if anything looks abnormal.... other then the shattered piston pieces. I've seen this in several diesel engines where a bolt has gotten into the intake system.

Mike

 

Please don't "Gasket Match" anything. The Intake should be mirrored to the head port......NOT the gasket

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/images/intake_index.jpg

 

Yep, I've seen WAY too many stock GT blocks that look like that with 6-10 psi. Normally the tune was bad. Just because you can't hear or feel detonation doesn't mean its not there and especially with these hypereutectic pistons, anything weird off axis force or wave shock is going to send them running home to the crankcase....

To me its just WAY too easy to nuke a 4.6L engine without hardening the internals....
-bix