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How am I doing?

Discussion in 'DIY and Junkyard Turbo Tech' started by Samhain, Jun 25, 2005.

  1. Samhain

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2004
    Im feeling really good about my DIY 2001 gt.
    Ive only spent 400 bucks and I have

    Holset h1c (looks brand new)
    LMAF 90mm
    255lph intank
    Oil feed & drain fittings
    t3 flange
    boost and A/F gauge
    manual boost controller
    4" air filter
    4" silicone couplers and clamps
    4"- 3" silicone reducer
    MIL eliminators
     
  2. Samhain

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2004
    well im happy about it!:booty:
     
  3. andrewsg203

    Joined:
    May 20, 2005
    Good budget wise setup.. but uhh if you could afford a 01 gt.. then why not a better setup?

    Was it a gift of a car?
     
  4. Samhain

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2004
    What do you mean by a better set up? It will more than reach my goals. You dont need to spend an ass load of cash to pull some nice #s

    Yea, I practically stole the car. Plus this forum needs some more DIY on a modular build. Now that modulars are getting cheaper, people will start buying them more.
     
  5. Torque Monster

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2003
    Sounds like a good budget setup, man. Where are you in Sebring? I'm over here in Bradenton but I have some friends in Lake Placid.
     
  6. andrewsg203

    Joined:
    May 20, 2005
    By better setup i meant more specifically abetter turbo ive done four holset builds and all of them lasted just under 25k before the holset was in need of a rebuild. Not exactly reliable if you ask me. What are you running for an itnercooler setup?

    Most expensive setup I've ever run was on a junkyard 7.5 liter 460 that i pulled from an F350, Motor cost 290$, was able to get the intake manifold and fuel setup (carb, pump regulator, etc) for 390ish, closer to 400. Turbo setup, pipes, turbo and intercooler cost me just under 400 all used/rebuilt.

    Built my own solid mounts and headers, car went 11.3 at 129 mph.. wit a helliva lot mroe in it.. just never tuned because a headgasket let go and my mom passed away during the following week, I lost interest in the car due to the fact that i had to take care of a lot of things..ah well. And this was when I was 17, I don't know of many 17 year olds that have performed that ;-).

    But so much for my rambling; good luck and I didn't mean to throw sand in your face, i meant to give some constructive criticism but I wasn't thorough enough with detail.

    -G
     
  7. TripleBlackVert

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2005
    wow, you have gotten alot of stuff for just $400.

    what are your goals?
     
  8. Leftoverchinese

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2004
    impressive that you have gotten all of that stuff for such a great orice. Again, what are your goals for the car? Also, is there any shaf6t play in the turbo?
     
  9. Samhain

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2004
    Andrew, There was no negitivity in my question...:cheers: I was serious. Ive done so much turbo research and have concluded that its good to start small (when your a turbo rookie) and work up from there. Ill spend more money on my set up when I get serious boost addiction, and strip saavy.

    My goals are around the 400-500rwhp area. (just not the stock 225rwhp)
    The turbo was an Ebay special. I got it for 100 shipped to my door. The h1c is practically new, slight shaft play left to right.. none in and out. Hell the exhaust housing dosent have any carbon deposits and the paint on the inside is just as new as the pait on the outside. The compressor is a band connection and you can clock it very easily and quickly.

    I just moved to Sebring from Omaha NE. My company relocated me. I bought a house behind some mall on 27

    funny thing, every thing except the turbo and MAF are brand new.

    step by step build up comming soon!!!!
     
  10. 97cobra51

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    where'd you find the 4inch air filter and how much for one.

    I'm doing a modular DIY build too probably spend $1000 now looking more like $1300 anyway still pretty cheap. The parts I got so far are MP T70, 50mm wastgate, 50mm BOV, 4x12x24 FMIC,
     
  11. Samhain

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2004
    funny thing, when i bought my 90mm MAF I knew that i would need a 4" air filter so I looked on ebay and found a 4" for 9.99 and shipping was another 9 bucks. I figured hell if its so cheap and I dont like it, I will just toss it in the trash. It got to my house in 3 friggin days. Its a damn nice air filter (f..k for 10 bucks). Not any worse than the stupid, overpriced K&N thats on my car right now.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7983428833&category=38634
     
  12. andrewsg203

    Joined:
    May 20, 2005
    Samhain -- hows the build going? And I hate to say it and be negative; but a modular motor is never going to be as simplistic as a pushrod motor -- cam swap in a pushrod motor -- 4 hour job not even.. modular motor? Yeah right.. not in 4 hours.. maintenance is much smoother, easier, and just all around more simplistic; and when you are force feeding a motor you definitely want simplicity!

    Good luck and let me know where you have gotten!

    -G
     
  13. bisquick

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2004
    Looks Good!

    I'm suprised everything is looking pretty good, and you are making decent power with 4ish lbs of boost!

    I still say you need a EGT or a AF gage in the car. Plus when you dynoed the car, did you get a AF reading when it was sweaping through the rev range?
    -bix
     
  14. Samhain

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2004
    andrew, I think that the mods are just as simple. And for the cam swap all you need to do is take off the valve cover and lock the cam chain. Boom new cams in 2hrs

    Check my build in this forum, Its called Time to start this 2v DIY.

    bis, Im not making any power yet. I cut down a wastegate spring for saftey. It max boost is only 1-2 lbs. Because im still waiting on fuel injectors in the mail. It will be dynoed or track tested once im finnished.
     
  15. andrewsg203

    Joined:
    May 20, 2005
    Future reference, as referred above; my name isnt andrew.. name is Gered. last name andrews.. hence andrewsg.. my old unix login from work.
     
  16. andrewsg203

    Joined:
    May 20, 2005
    And you are telling me you installed and degreed two cams in 2 hrs? Ehh doubtful.
     
  17. Samhain

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2004
    Just making the point that the cam is under the valve cover and not in the core of the block. Easyer to get to and install.

    who needs those stupid pushrod thingies anyway. :D
     
  18. Got N2O

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2005
    Don't be scared. Mod motors aren't that tough. Who swaps cams as maintenance? That's a modification. Maintenance on a mod motor is less involved than on my 5.0. IE, 5.0= change cap, rotor, plugs, air filter. Wife's car = plugs (zero wear on them when I pulled the originals out at 114,000 miles (car was new to us) God bless platinum for N/A applications) and air filter. Gasket technology is so much better on the mod motors too. All of the ones in the intake tract can be reused (I think valve cover/oil pan may be too?) and leaks aren't as much of an issue as they were with the 60s designed pushrod motors. The biggest drawbacks are small displacement and cost of aftermarket parts (which has come a LONG way, and with some things actually gotten cheaper than the 5.0)
     
  19. bisquick

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2004
    What items are cheaper?

    What items are cheaper on the 4.6L? Just wondering since Mod motors ARE the wave of the future. I like 5.0L because they are simple but those mod motors are H EEE AAA VY! When you have one on a stand its damn near impossible to twist one over gently because those heads are so heavy. I like the motor but they need to lose about 20 lbs of the heads and punch the size out a solid 5.0L, none of this 4.6L crap!
    -bix
     
  20. Samhain

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2004
    plus over head cams take to boost and higher rpms better:taunt:
     
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