I've been out of town for the weekend...

Have you gotten the car to run with the standard megasquirt before moving on to MSnS-e? Are you using an MSD?

After I'm all done with mine (pretty close now) I'm going to make some diagrams in Visio.

 

The only time the car ran was before the Megasquirt install.

I'm using an MSD Digital 6 and running MSnS code 021. I'm going to upgrade to 024 code, and also to MegaTune 2.25b514.

Any help would be GLADLY appreciated!!!

BTW, did you take all you MS connections form the factory harness, or did you bypass the harness and run your own wires?

Thanks,
Mitch

 

I will get pictures tonight, hopefully. I was able to get a fried eec-iv from Zoah that I took the connector off it and made a harness of my own so I'm still plugging into the original connector. That just makes it more convenient, but shouldn't have any bearing on it working if everything is connected correctly.

We should try getting the car to run without ignition control first. This is what I did, but only by accident because I didn't realize the eec-iv controlled the ignition in the way that it does. I had an easy time getting the injection part to work and a difficult time with the ignition because of dumb mistakes.

Well, I'll see what I can come up with tonight after work.

 

Here is a chart of the wiring as I currently have it for my setup. If you've already chopped the original harness then this won't be useful until I get the wire colors recorded.



Wiring the TFI is the same way as boost has shown on his website. The middle 2 wires on the TFI can be bridged together since one of them has +12v while cranking and running and the other needs to behave the same way.

While testing I used a spark plug on plug wire #8 with a grounding wire. I set this up in plain view while in the drivers seat so I could tell right away if ignition was working. I used a ninth plug in order to keep cylinder #8 sealed so I wouldn't have gas coming out the spark plug hole.

Here are the spark settings I used. This setup works based on the values entered into the table so I included those as well. My table has been tested very little, but it should be good for starting out. If anyone wants to give me advice on my table, please do!

 

Here is a chart of the wiring as I currently have it for my setup. If you've already chopped the original harness then this won't be useful until I get the wire colors recorded.



Wiring the TFI is the same way as boost has shown on his website. The middle 2 wires on the TFI can be bridged together since one of them has +12v while cranking and running and the other needs to behave the same way.

While testing I used a spark plug on plug wire #8 with a grounding wire. I set this up in plain view while in the drivers seat so I could tell right away if ignition was working. I used a ninth plug in order to keep cylinder #8 sealed so I wouldn't have gas coming out the spark plug hole.

Here are the spark settings I used. This setup works based on the values entered into the table so I included those as well. My table has been tested very little, but it should be good for starting out. If anyone wants to give me advice on my table, please do!

 

Here's what I had...

 

I wonder if I should be using a 10 degree trigger angle...

 

Set it up the way I had mine, you should be good then

 

I just ran it with 10 degree trigger angle. It seems to run more like normal, but I'm curious why it would run at 60 degree trigger angle? If I go inbetween it runs very poorly. It's like I shifted all timing onto another level... like it resets and starts over at a certain point. Not sure if that makes sense, just trying to understand.

I'm only curious because I'm not finding any reference points on the harmonic balancer for which to adjust the timing by. It looks like there's a notch on the opposite side of the timing "sight".

 

So you just wired the two wires together (12V+/ST)?

 

thats how I did it, just tapped off the main relay that i added in also


so are you getting any spark? can you smell fuel?

 

hmm I didnt get any spark when I had Ford TFI selected. I have mine setup for the basic one.

 

So just like this?

 

I'm getting spark from the coil and I do smell fuel. It'll crank and almost start, but then it dies. I have to work with my ASE settings, but I won't be able to mess with MS until I put the EFI stuff back on (I wanted to ditch the project and go blow-thru carb). I hope to have everything back together this weekend.

Here's a datalog...

NOTE: The TPS spike before start was me checking TPS feedback.

 

i had to keep my foot on the gas when I first got it running till It got to temp. Then I tuned the ASE and it runs good.

 

I used boost's diagram here

 

I'm throwing in the towel!!!! I tried every possible combination of settings and nothing worked. Basically "same shit, different day". I have already double checked my wiring, checked for spark, checked for fuel, etc. This thing SHOULD be working!

My MS days are coming close to being over.

 

has anybody been able to come up with a install write up that is more suited to the fox body mustang?

i have been to boostedconcepts page and msefi, megasquirt.info but i couldnt fully understand the diagrams there.

I just about have mine finished (built) and wanted to do as much reading on the install as possible. I have a ms-II v3.0 but will be using a ms-1 processor till better code is written for ms-II

I will be using msns-e so i want to get as much info on the correct way to wire in the ignition portion of the install as possible. I will be using a msd 6al.

I do have a legitamate question. I will be piggybacking my ms with the stock ecu. Does it matter that the stock ecu is speed density or a mass air ecu? I would think not since the ms takes that functionality out of the equation. The reason i am asking is im thinking about selling my a9l, my maf conversion harness, maf, and 19lb injectors as a coversion kit. I actually have already had offers on it.

 

Why do you think you need to "piggy back" your A9L? What is it going to do?

There is some misconception that you need to keep your stock computer for some reason. The only peple that should even be considering this are the ones running AODE's.

The Stock ford Main and engine wiring harness is nice modular piece. It's not very difficult to remove. Remove it and make a new harness based on the diagrams on Boost's page. It will be much easier to diagnose problems, weighs alot less and look 1k times cleaner.

 

well i guess the only issues that i can think of are the stock tach and the i thought i read somewhere that the stock ecu controls cruise control, which i still have, along with a/c