Another thing to look up is Deutsch connectors/crimpers. These make very easy and robust work of your electric connection. The initial entry price is a bit steep but it pays for itself in the long run. Easy crimping, connectors are easily reusable/repinnable. And you can also get knockoffs of the connectors that, while they aren't quite as nice, still work well.

 

Does anyone know how big of a main bus bar I need for a semi simple wiring system. I want to make a clean and dirty just not sure the amperage I would need on them. I think I figured out the entire system (everything added up) is in the realm of 200 to 350 amps. I'm not sure if the starter circuit would impact that or should the starter be on its own.

 

That's a big system. Can you list out the major components and their draw? It will make it easier to figure out how many terminals are going to be required.

Usually the starter is a dedicated circuit, with a lead from the battery going directly to the solenoid.

 

Ok these are all maximum guesstimate from various places that I have found.

MSD 6AL-15-20amps
Weldon 2025 fuel pump - 20amp
Intercooler WP - (Mesier) 20amp
FaST XFI - 40amp?
13 inch trans fan - 10amp
Mesier engine WP - 20amp
Engine fan (I think it's a stock mustang electric fan) - 20amp
Hurst LL - 2amp
T400 transbrake - 10amp
Gauges - 4-6amp
Need room for extras like lights eventually.

 

This is what I have so far. This is the ignition/fuel pump and fan panel.

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I thought I replied to this already, sorry.

What you have so far looks good.

Some of your amperage estimates are a little off. It's ok to plan for too much, but make sure you fuse things appropriately.

MSD box will pull 7.7A at 7000 rpm
Fast xfi requires a 3A fuse
WP for IC will be around 5A
Trans fan will depend on the CFM you choose, but 10A is probably close. Expect a startup draw of double that.
Mez engine WP will be 6-7A
Engine fan, 20A is a good estimate, they can be more, depending on age and bearing condition.
Hurst LL 4A
Transbrake not sure, 10a is more than enough. Consult the manual.
Gauges will depend on what type of illumination etc.
Fuel pump could be 20A on startup or if your fuel level is low.

Lights: Stock type headlights will be around 8A on high beams, another 8A or so for your markers and turn signals.

Your still under 100A of total requirement.

Be extremely selective about your grounding, it makes or breaks an electrical system. Especially with sensitive components like the MSD and XFI.

Make sure nothing exceeds 80% load on a circuit, for instance, if you are using a 40a relay: 40A x 0.8= 32A. Same deal with wiring, make sure you are using heavy enough gauge for the length of the run, and don't exceed 80% of the capacity. That will help ensure the system has longevity.

 

This is exactly the feedback I was looking for. IM using 2/0 and 1/0 wire for feeders and main grounding. 12 gauge for power to accessory and 14-16 for switches. I bought a positive and negative bus terminal for the clean bus but I'm thinking I need another set for the "dirty" bus? I'm pretty sure I over bought and over thought and confused the shit out of myself.

 

Am I on the right track? I honestly don't know how to do this bus bar operation.

 

Start with this chart, it will answer your questions about amp draw on the wiring itself: #ad


As far as the bus bars, they can be a good way to go, post up pics of the ones you have. I like them for master power distribution, especially with remote mount batteries.

I don't know if you saw this thread, but I did a little write up on some of the stuff I do here, and some other members were kind enough to add to it: https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/wiring-tips-and-tricks.388262/

If you have some more specific questions that might get you a little more response. It's tough to tell you how to wire x with z using y for every circuit you have.


I think you have most of your parts ordered, but leashelectronics makes some nice parts, you can look at some of the panels they build out and take inspiration from them.

 

I really just don't want to over do it because that will just cause more problems and harder to find solutions.

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I don't think you are overdoing it. Run Battery to the live bus bar, use a mega fuse close to the battery, inline that is 20% less amperage than the capacity of the wire (use chart above) that fuse protects the car from fire and the wire itself, it does not protect any circuits. Use the bus bar to send one line to starter, one to interior and one to engine bay.

Use the ground bus bar to tie battery to block, chassis, and body. That will take care of most of your heavy wiring.

If you are setting up a street car pick up something like an ezwiring harness, they come with different size fuse blocks to handle different numbers of circuits. That will take care of all your interior, general engine bay and lighting. It will give you switched outputs for what you need as well.

If you are you competing in an NHRA or other sanctioned body event you will need to make sure you have the correct shutoff setup. You need to make sure the alternator runs into the shutoff as well. The bus bar will make that a lot easier (run the alternator to the battery, battery through the shutoff so the alternator can't keep the car live, fuse the line). Read the rules for your class in detail, make sure you do what you need to pass tech.

 

The only "street" car options I'm going to run are brake lights, head lights and lights for 3 or 4 gauges, everything else is straight track.

 

Consider energy efficiency: Nowadays, energy efficiency is a significant concern. Incorporate energy-saving measures such as LED lighting, motion sensors, and programmable thermostats into your electrical plan. These upgrades can help you save on utility bills while reducing your environmental impact.

 

What?! ​

 

It's f4k's cousin. Just don't mention anything about pcv or you'll have both of them in here.

 

What are your thoughts on adding diodes to termination points? Is it a necessary safety?

 

I don't do it...

Doesn't mean it's the right way . I don't see it in the OEM harnesses I have mangled either, except on an ATV that used a diode rectifier in the generator.

 

I was just reading the Davis Technology race car wiring guide and it says that some solenoids and relays have a high voltage spike when activity and could hurt sensitive components. I mean, I've never seen anyone diode up their wiring system.

 

I see diodes on cooling fans, ac clutch, and I believe 2 wire pwm iac.

 

Update - I hate wiring

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