My understanding is you cannot run the low impedance with the micro due to the transistors will not hold the heat. Also if you use a micro, megasquirt 1 or the megasquirt 2 with the v2.2 board you will have to build a flyback board of get some sort of injector drivers. The megasquirt 2 with v3 and 3.57 board will run low impedance injectors just fine as the have flyback built into them already. I also think you can run them with the mspnp. Not sure and megasquirt 3, dont keep up with it. Also make sure you get you injector characteristics set right or you take the chance of burning up low impedance injectors.

 

Any ideas as to what you guys set your piston rings to? File down to? ive seen ppl go from .025 or .027 all the way to .035 so can some of you guys let me know ball park. thank you

 

Also need help on choosing a distributor. I have the one that came with the 97 351w. So what ones can I use. Not really a fan of msd.



Edit: Think ill go with a reman motorcraft #30-2884 from a 1989 Ford F-150 5.8L or a new Rich Porter one.

 

we file our rings at .0065 to .007 per inch of bore,, you should check with your piston/ring manufacturer though,, usually open the btm ring about an extra .002 to help reduce pressure between the rings

 

The 89 model is the one I used, but make sure it is the one with local mount tfi. You will also have to change the cam gear on it because they come with a cast gear, a roller cam will eat it up in less than 100 miles.

 

I was thinking about gear ratio and where to get the 3.27's that i want. Could i get them from say, a ford explorer or F150/ Bronco?

used would be a hell of a lot cheaper then the 145.00 at other companies.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!!!!!!

 

I just bought a mspnp gen2 for my build. Should be here Friday! Looks like it's gunna work well

 

Yes any gear from an 8.8 will fit. Also check craigslist, people are all the time selling 3.08's and 3.27 cheap cause only us turbo guys want them.

 

Just bought a used custom cam!!!!

228/232
.564/.566
LSA 116

Hopefully with the higher lsa it will be a smoother lope instead of a choppy stallish lope. Im looking forward to putting it in.

i should be getting the engine back from the machine shop by the end of the month,

 

good luck on build , looking good

 

Just bought more parts for the build




ARP head studs 154-4003

9333-PT1 head gasket

Fel pro gasket kit ks-2343

High volume Oil Pump (Melling M-83HV)

ARP hardened oil shaft (154-7901)

1262r Intake gasket.

Distributor...P/N 30-2884


They should be coming in no later than the 27th I hope.

 

And now the AOD took a S#$t today so any recommendations for this replacement. Not going to be a track car, mostly a cruise around car, so need overdrive.

 

Got the engine back from the machine shop today. Cant wait to start building this. So pumped!!!!!!

 

On the trans. I say rebuild with quiality clutchs, silver fox full manual valve body and a nice converter. Stop typing and put the motor together!! LOL

 

Should i go with a non lockup converter?

with a manual VB can i still use overdrive?

Maybe look into SPT-MAC? best of both worlds?


http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/silverfoxtrans.com/VB_AOD.html




Also use this converter
http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_2&products_id=2



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Edge makes a nice converter. I would go with a lock up unit for a street car. Also I was thinking the SPT-MVB, no tv cable, manually shift through the gears and flip a switch when you want O.D. But if you like the SPT-MAC then go with it.

 

LMAO I'm with this guy!

 

Some pictures of painting the block

first shot it with light FORD blue for base coat (2 coats)

Then Dupicolor metalcast blue (2 coats)

let the paint cure for a day then clear coat (2 coats)

on with the pics/

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Then had some fun with the oil pan and water pump.

I love the color scheme!!!!

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Installed the ARP head studs that came in today!!!!!

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